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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 11 Jan 2011 (Tuesday) 14:25
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Show us your setup and the final result!

 
Bioshock
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Oct 25, 2011 23:03 |  #2521

Gaarryy wrote in post #13274562 (external link)
Wow.. very nice,, how many exposures was it, or was it just one long one { I think you said 20 sec}.
it also looks like you change the light ring shadow on the ground to be more centered. but I might be looking at it at an angle.. Either way, quite impressive

Thanks Gaarryy. Glad you like it.

This was 3 shots. I think the exposures were something like 5, 10, and 20 sec ISO 100. If I recall correctly I believe I did move my tripod to the left a little after I took the setup shot.


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tonylong
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Oct 26, 2011 00:21 |  #2522

Hinson wrote in post #13306806 (external link)
Chris; awesome shot.

I agree -- beautiful water drop macro!


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yeow_Z
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Oct 26, 2011 02:22 |  #2523

my set up, (right camera)

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IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
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results
IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6092/6278490401_7f57f9de4d_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/nijelcruz/62784​90401/  (external link)
bug mating (external link) by NICRU (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6232/6278490253_a14058ddd4_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/nijelcruz/62784​90253/  (external link)
Hoverfly (Eristalinus taeniops) IMG_0367 (external link) by NICRU (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6118/6274919500_ccf60d22ff_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/nijelcruz/62749​19500/  (external link)
Muscid Fly (testing) (external link) by NICRU (external link), on Flickr

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mtimber
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Oct 26, 2011 04:54 |  #2524

chrisa wrote in post #13306772 (external link)
QUOTED IMAGE
QUOTED IMAGE

Nice.


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tonylong
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Oct 26, 2011 05:03 |  #2525

Nijel, wow! Were those little bugs on that one big leaf?


Tony
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scobols
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Oct 26, 2011 05:55 |  #2526

airbutchie wrote in post #13303650 (external link)
Pretty awesome, Scott!!! BTW, what size are the PLM's?! Thanks in advance...

:D

I measured them, 56".

Scott


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mapawe
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Oct 26, 2011 08:17 |  #2527

yeow_Z wrote in post #13308072 (external link)
my set up, (right camera)

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 400 | MIME changed to 'text/html'


How is the flash held in place?




  
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nrowensby
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Oct 26, 2011 08:25 |  #2528

Hinson wrote in post #13306818 (external link)
jsigone; can you explain the 'why' for the ice cooler?

Just another way to try and keep the sensor cooler. Some astrophotog's will go as far as taking apart the camera and mount heatsyncs to the backside of the sensor to help keep them cooler during long exposures.

Long Exposures = Hot Sensor
Hot sensor = Lots of Noise
Cooler sensor = Less Noise


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Hinson
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Oct 26, 2011 09:07 |  #2529

nrowensby wrote in post #13308826 (external link)
Just another way to try and keep the sensor cooler. Some astrophotog's will go as far as taking apart the camera and mount heatsyncs to the backside of the sensor to help keep them cooler during long exposures.

Long Exposures = Hot Sensor
Hot sensor = Lots of Noise
Cooler sensor = Less Noise

Ahhh, see; I just proved you're never too old to learn...hehehe


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jsigone
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Oct 26, 2011 11:08 |  #2530

Hinson wrote in post #13306818 (external link)
jsigone; can you explain the 'why' for the ice cooler?

with the shutter open for over 3mins the temp of the sensor causes so much noise at iso1600. I shoot at 1600 because I have to go through either a light pollution filter or the Ha filter and need everything I can get from the sensor. Internal temps would be in the upper 90*F if I did my 10 min exposure. By keeping the camera cool from the ice packs, not to be mistaken for direct cooling like a TEC cooler. I can drop those sensor temps to around 55-60*F and keeping the noise minimal (on summer nights). Without the cooler the temps from the first picture taken to the last one 3-4 hours later can be +20*F difference in sensor temps, the cooler almost eliminates the progressive heat of the chip and temps might rise only 2-3*F over the course of the night.

Also with astro photos, because there is always so much read noise and the detail is actually in the noise, its required to take "darks". Same exposure length but with the lens cap on. The software we use takes those darks and cancels out the noise from the picture files then stacks everything. Since noise is temp sensitive, that delta in temps from start to finish can ruin the image and all its efforts when stretching the histogram in photoshop.

Here's the lagoon pretty much straight from the camera with a small tug up on the histo with a 5 min exposure

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5230/5764386184_6f3a0dedac_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/67003117@N00/5​764386184/  (external link)
M8 Lagoon single frame collimation test (external link) by jsigone (external link), on Flickr

Here's what the final looks like after more of those 5min exposures are stacked, and noise is canceled out and correct color balance. I have about 3hrs of data in this image.
IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6132/5947263954_bab9999cce_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/67003117@N00/5​947263954/  (external link)
HaRGB M8 Lagoon Nebula 185min Final (external link) by jsigone (external link), on Flickr

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mtimber
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Oct 26, 2011 11:09 |  #2531

^^beautiful.


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Hinson
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Oct 26, 2011 11:28 |  #2532

mtimber wrote in post #13309628 (external link)
^^beautiful.

Yes it is. And it also shows just how insignificant we humans really are in the grand scheme of things.


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Dustman
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Oct 26, 2011 12:14 |  #2533

jsigone wrote in post #13309620 (external link)
with the shutter open for over 3mins the temp of the sensor causes so much noise at iso1600. I shoot at 1600 because I have to go through either a light pollution filter or the Ha filter and need everything I can get from the sensor. Internal temps would be in the upper 90*F if I did my 10 min exposure. By keeping the camera cool from the ice packs, not to be mistaken for direct cooling like a TEC cooler. I can drop those sensor temps to around 55-60*F and keeping the noise minimal (on summer nights). Without the cooler the temps from the first picture taken to the last one 3-4 hours later can be +20*F difference in sensor temps, the cooler almost eliminates the progressive heat of the chip and temps might rise only 2-3*F over the course of the night.

Also with astro photos, because there is always so much read noise and the detail is actually in the noise, its required to take "darks". Same exposure length but with the lens cap on. The software we use takes those darks and cancels out the noise from the picture files then stacks everything. Since noise is temp sensitive, that delta in temps from start to finish can ruin the image and all its efforts when stretching the histogram in photoshop.

Amazing Images Sir, I would love to try something like that one day, what kind of adapter would I need? and how much does a scope like that go for?


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mtimber
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Oct 26, 2011 12:15 |  #2534

Hinson wrote in post #13309737 (external link)
Yes it is. And it also shows just how insignificant we humans really are in the grand scheme of things.

Or show us how significant we really are...


"Lovely photo, you must have a really good camera"

  
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TheBurningCrown
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Oct 26, 2011 12:29 |  #2535

mtimber wrote in post #13309983 (external link)
Or show us how significant we really are...

Oh so many Douglas Adams quotes could follow this sentence :lol:.


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Show us your setup and the final result!
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