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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing
Thread started 23 Feb 2012 (Thursday) 22:09   
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drmaxx
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stsva wrote in post #13971346external link
Here's a shot at it. I used a black and white layer in "multiply" blending mode to tame the reds and yellows some, along with various other adjustments, but this is as far as I could get toward "normal" colors.

I am very impressed with your result! Care to show what 'various other adjustments' you did? I am especially interested in the sharpening process you used.

Post #16, Feb 28, 2012 10:02:52


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stsva
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drmaxx wrote in post #13982957external link
I am very impressed with your result! Care to show what 'various other adjustments' you did? I am especially interested in the sharpening process you used.

Actually, because I was editing a JPEG I don't think I did any sharpening. I found that the B&W adjustment layer in multiply blending mode brought back the details in the feathers for the birds on the right that had just been blobs of color before. I did some fooling around adding color fill layers in various colors and probably other stuff I don't remember now, but that didn't really make much difference.

Post #17, Feb 28, 2012 10:33:40


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FreeLearningLife
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WOW! This thread is so helpful and full of info.

I went to a party this weekend and shot in raw & jpeg.

I was able to save some pictures by editing the raw shots. Some turned out really grainy once I edited them, but I haven't had any time to really sit down and look-the noise might be because my ISO was set high-I didn't have much time to catch shots because my youngest son was taking a lot of my time-I'd just point and shoot hope some of them took! LOL

So, is the software that came with the camera really good? Should I install it? I didn't because I have photoshop elements. Is there a reason to install the software that came with the camera in addition to elements?

Post #18, Feb 28, 2012 16:39:46


Jesus-loving, skirt-wearing, redneck-hippie Homeschooling mom and total DSLR Newbie
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FreeLearningLife
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ok so I"m not as good as you guys-but I"ll be honest and say I was a bit scared of raw, but here are just a couple of shots from this weekend that I was able to 'save' with editing, though I admit I have a long way to go, at least you can see who is IN the photo with editing LOL

This one turened out way too dark

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7197/6793392866_a72f50f701_z.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com ...elearninglife/67933​92866/]external link
Straight from cameraexternal link by FreeLearningLifeexternal link, on Flickr

So I edited it so you could atleast identify the people in the picture. It has a lot of noise but at least I can see who's who.

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6793398498_390e039835_z.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com ...elearninglife/67933​98498/]external link
Editedexternal link by FreeLearningLifeexternal link, on Flickr

And this this one was bit too bright

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7045/6939507111_0045398ee1_z.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com ...elearninglife/69395​07111/]external link
Straight from cameraexternal link by FreeLearningLifeexternal link, on Flickr

so I toned it down a bit but then made the colors a bit vivid cause, I mean, it's super heros, super heros are vivid! :D

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/6939508065_1c5e3fb18c_z.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com ...elearninglife/69395​08065/]external link
Editedexternal link by FreeLearningLifeexternal link, on Flickr

I am well aware I have along way to go and lots to learn, but thought I'd share because if it weren't for these forums I would not have shot in raw and jpeg at the party and I"m always open to tips about how to improve.

Post #19, Feb 28, 2012 17:01:22


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tonylong
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I'd say you got some good mileage out of those Raw files!

Check out our Raw Conversion thread for some great work done by hundreds of POTNers:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=684360

FreeLearningLife wrote in post #13985561external link
WOW! This thread is so helpful and full of info.

I went to a party this weekend and shot in raw & jpeg.

I was able to save some pictures by editing the raw shots. Some turned out really grainy once I edited them, but I haven't had any time to really sit down and look-the noise might be because my ISO was set high-I didn't have much time to catch shots because my youngest son was taking a lot of my time-I'd just point and shoot hope some of them took! LOL

Well, shooting in low light calls for higher ISOs, which "amplifies" the collected light but also digital noise. In darker areas less light is collected, but the level of noise is the same so when the darker areas get amplified the noise shows up. So yes, the high amplification of a high ISO brings up the visible noise. The best approach is to get the best possible exposure using your aperture and shutter speed, and then to use the ISO that will give you the best level of brightness for those settings without blowing highlights.

But then, in your Raw processing software (or later in a photo editor) you can then apply noise reduction to help with the noise. That will be especially helpful in a dark image like your first one where boosting the underexposed shot will show a lot of noise if you had a higher ISO to start with.

So, is the software that came with the camera really good? Should I install it? I didn't because I have photoshop elements. Is there a reason to install the software that came with the camera in addition to elements?

The Canon Raw processing software Digital Photo Professional (DPP) is quite capable, especially for a "free" application, and I'd say that it has some good features that the Elements Raw processor lacks and so would recommend that you install it and give it a go!

You will hear a lot of talk here about Lightroom (as well as Aperture for Macs) and yes, their Raw processors have great capabilities that go beyond Elements and DPP, but at a price, and they have expanded features that do well for pros and "serious" amateurs who have a volume of photos to work with but for now get your skills up with DPP and Elements and take your time to explore the options!

Post #20, Feb 28, 2012 17:35:46


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drmaxx
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FreeLearningLife wrote in post #13985680external link
This one turened out way too dark. So I edited it so you could atleast identify the people in the picture. It has a lot of noise but at least I can see who's who.

QUOTED IMAGE
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com ...elearninglife/67933​98498/]external link
Editedexternal link by FreeLearningLifeexternal link, on Flickr

The noise here has nothing to do with the ISO setting. You always get noise if you have to brighten that strongly - not quite but almost independet of the ISO setting.
It is easier to darken a picture (as long as the highlights are not completely blown out) -- and actually a recommended method to get the best out of your camera.

But honestly: In situations where you are stressed with a kid, I would shoot in P-mode (and keep the ISO in automatic) or at least in AV-mode and not in M -- this way the keeper rate goes up - and you still have the possibilities to make adjustments if needed.

Post #21, Feb 29, 2012 07:58:59


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FreeLearningLife
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Thank Tony. I had actually already started reading that thread :) I"ll install the Canon software soon and play around with it then, see what I can do with it.

Maxx-this was my first time in that type of situation with my camera, looking back I guess I should have switched from M to one of the presets, maybe next time ;)

Post #22, Feb 29, 2012 08:45:41


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stsva
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FreeLearningLife wrote in post #13989590external link
Thank Tony. I had actually already started reading that thread :) I"ll install the Canon software soon and play around with it then, see what I can do with it.

Maxx-this was my first time in that type of situation with my camera, looking back I guess I should have switched from M to one of the presets, maybe next time ;)

Here's the approach I mostly use for exposure when shooting in M and RAW (except when shooting with flash; with flash, I usually set the camera to 1/200 or 1/250 to block out the ambient light and use the flash to illuminate the scene) - I find it works well in just about any situation, not the just the high contrast scenes he developed it for:
http://daystarvisions.​com/Docs/Tuts/DCExp/pg​1.htmlexternal link
To summarize his approach, take test shots metering off the brightest area in a scene, adjust your exposure upward until you find the point where you're close to but not yet at the point of over-exposing that brightest area (in other words, it's bright but you can still see the details in the image file in your post processing software), and figure out how many "stops" that is above the normal middle exposure indicated by the camera's meter. That gives you your camera's "exposure headroom". For most current cameras that headroom will probably be between 2 1/2 and 3 stops or so. When you have a scene with unchanging lighting, spot (or partial, if your camera doesn't have spot metering) off the brightest area in the scene, then adjust the exposure upward by the number of stops your camera has for exposure headroom.
If you use this approach, you sometimes will need to "drop" the exposure in post processing to some extent, but that's easily done. This approach will also help minimize noise at any given ISO setting.

Post #23, Feb 29, 2012 09:34:16


Some Canon stuff and a little bit of Yongnuo.
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drmaxx
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FreeLearningLife wrote in post #13989590external link
... looking back I guess I should have switched from M to one of the presets, maybe next time ;)

Just be aware the presets don't give you a raw files - this is why I suggested P.

Post #24, Feb 29, 2012 11:12:16


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Preeb
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This is about the best I could get with what there was to work with. I used several of the color correction options in Elements, including levels, hue and saturation. It isn't that great, but the original was really hard to work with as it had very little color information aside from the reds.

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Post #25, Feb 29, 2012 11:35:26 as a reply to drmaxx's post 23 minutes earlier.


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FreeLearningLife
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stsva - thanks-I skimmed over it and it's a bit over my head at this point so I'm gonna sit down and study it tonight after the boys go to bed :)

drmaxx - well maybe if I used one of the presets I might not have needed raw files! LOL Which really is okay because I'm not a professional or selling photos or anything. That day was much more about capturing memories than taking a 'great' photo.

My favorite photo from the day is this one (it was his 16th birthday and he had a wrestling party and everyone got really into it and it was awesome!)

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7045/6941634881_a02b7514c9_z.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com ...elearninglife/69416​34881/]external link
Macho Manexternal link by FreeLearningLifeexternal link, on Flickr

The original photo turned out really bad, dark, so I used photoshop to fix it up with some text for him. It's worth more than any 'great' photograph :)

Post #26, Feb 29, 2012 12:19:55


Jesus-loving, skirt-wearing, redneck-hippie Homeschooling mom and total DSLR Newbie
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drmaxx
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FreeLearningLife wrote in post #13990901external link
drmaxx - well maybe if I used one of the presets I might not have needed raw files! LOL Which really is okay because I'm not a professional or selling photos or anything.

I don't think that there is a need to choose. I am by far no professional nor proficient photographer. I am doing many things wrongly and frankly, in most circumstances (especially in situation with many people) I don't want to think too hard about the settings (white balance, ...) of my camera. So I take both (jpeg + raw) which gives me the freedom to make a good picture great if need should be. Having access to the raw file increases your freedom - if you don't have any need for that then just use the jpeg.

FreeLearningLife wrote in post #13990901external link
That day was much more about capturing memories than taking a 'great' photo.

I think that's the most important motivation - but I don't think that there is a need to choose between capturing memories or taking great photos. It is actually very much fun to be able to capture the characteristic feeling of a moment in a good picture. And it is actually even more fun if other people can see the feel of the moment in your picture.

Personally, that is what is driving me to become better in photography. Not making a great picture that I can sell to an Australian on the other side of the world (no offense!) - but to be able to create memories that truly reflects the moment.

Post #27, Feb 29, 2012 14:26:58


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