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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk
Thread started 18 Mar 2012 (Sunday) 16:39
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How do you deal with this issue when you take panoramas, such as beaches?

 
Polarized
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Mar 18, 2012 16:39 |  #1
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http://www.nfilipovic.​com ...0Beach%20Panorama%2​02.jpg (external link)

IMAGE: http://www.nfilipovic.com/content/photography/travel/022-africa-durban/images/Africa_Durban_2009_065_Umhlanga%20Beach%20Panorama%202.jpg

As you can notice, the middle of the picture appears closer and the sides wrap around behind... while in real life of course it would be just one straight beach.

Usually when one takes a panorama they just rotate the camera on a tripod, which doesn't seem practical to me. The other option is moving the tripod itself along the beach and taking a picture every "station". Of course that doesn't seem that practical either.



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Mr. ­ Bill
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Mar 18, 2012 16:47 |  #2

You can try using lens correction in either camera raw or in Photoshop. That should fix some of it.



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Sorarse
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Mar 18, 2012 17:02 |  #3

The problem there is the different perspective you get when rotating your viewpoint. When looking out to sea, the beach to your left does indeed stretch out to your left, but if you turn 90 degrees to your left, the beach now reaches out straight ahead of you.

Personally I've just accepted that this happens when you do really wide pano shots, so have never tried any sort of lens correction in post. I guess for a truly 'flat' pano, you would need to take your shots several metres apart, but all looking in the same direction.


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Wilt
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Mar 18, 2012 17:44 |  #4

What you are seeing can be reduced by use of a lens with Shift movements...lateral shift, rather than rotational change of focal plane orientation.


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Hermeto
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Mar 18, 2012 18:58 |  #5
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Take a look here:

The Nodal Point for Panoramasexternal link


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Wilt
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Mar 18, 2012 19:04 |  #6

Hermeto wrote in post #14109215external link
Take a look here:

The Nodal Point for Panoramasexternal link

Non-use of nodal points affect the relationship of background objects to foreground objects...change of perspective. But that won't really alter the beach becoming a curved shoreline instead of its 'straight line' reality. The curve is created when the focal plane's relationship to the shore is altered.


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Ricardo222
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Mar 18, 2012 19:17 |  #7

Wilt wrote in post #14109247external link
Non-use of nodal points affect the relationship of background objects to foreground objects...change of perspective. But that won't really alter the beach becoming a curved shoreline instead of its 'straight line' reality. The curve is created when the focal plane's relationship to the shore is altered.

Correct. If you change the orientation of the film-plane/sensor, whatever, the apparent perspective is bound to change. Only be keeping the sensor parallel in different shots will the perspective remain true to the original. For some people it's easier to comprehend this in the matter of tilting a camera up to take in a tall building...it appears to recede and this can be prevented wither by use of a shifting lens ot in PP. So the same happens when you rotate a camera around it's vertical axis to make a panorama...the perspective recedes first one way then the other.

Solution...sideways shift of lens with TS, or correction in PP. Moving bodily along the beach will have other consequences that may make a good outcome impossible, as in the relative movement of far and near objects.


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ejenner
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Mar 18, 2012 23:05 as a reply to Ricardo222's post |  #8

Even with a T/S though, you're not going to get 180deg or more.

I don't even know if you can make this look realistic since we don't see 180deg with our eyes. If you had more foreground you could probably try changing the projection - but then you would need to take care of parallax.

No, looking at it again, I don't see how you could make this look 'realistic' in 2D. I'm willing to be proved wrong, but how to you get one side of the beach opposite the other side? Imagine trying to straighten the transition from the beach to the grass.


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x_tan
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Mar 18, 2012 23:26 |  #9

Welcome to POTN.
Use telephoto lens to reduce the fore group, which will give bit more 'natural' looking Pano.


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Ricardo222
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Mar 18, 2012 23:30 |  #10

ejenner wrote in post #14110748external link
Even with a T/S though, you're not going to get 180deg or more.

I don't even know if you can make this look realistic since we don't see 180deg with our eyes. If you had more foreground you could probably try changing the projection - but then you would need to take care of parallax.

No, looking at it again, I don't see how you could make this look 'realistic' in 2D. I'm willing to be proved wrong, but how to you get one side of the beach opposite the other side? Imagine trying to straighten the transition from the beach to the grass.

On reflection you are absolutely right with this scene. Trying to make an accurate 2D pano would be like Mercator making a 2D earth projection...something has to give!!! :D


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Polarized
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Mar 19, 2012 03:27 |  #11
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x_tan wrote in post #14110830external link
Welcome to POTN.
Use telephoto lens to reduce the fore group, which will give bit more 'natural' looking Pano.

Thanks!

And I like the idea of using a telephoto lens.

Are panoramas of things far off in the distance (say an island across an ocean) more natural than something very close to the camera?

What is best in photoshop, cylindrical, perspective or auto? Or I should ask what do you all prefer?




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Ricardo222
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Mar 19, 2012 03:42 |  #12

Normally I make panoramas of scenes where the foreground is not a part of the scene, which prevents the problems discussed above.

Like many, I also prefer to use longer FLs for panoramas...more shots but less distortion. And of course, the more shots there are in the final image, the greater the resolution...if that is a factor. I have made some panoramas of my town using the 70-200 in vertical orientation, set at about 130-140mm FL, and 10-11 shots have been sufficient. On a 6'x17" prrint you can see wonderful detail.

2-3 shots with the 17-40 would have covered the same scene but the resolution...horrible at that size!

I have made multiple shot panos with the 600 f4 as well, but they tend to be rather narrower views!


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MesserschmittMan
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Mar 19, 2012 04:28 |  #13

Ricardo222 wrote in post #14111616external link
Normally I make panoramas of scenes where the foreground is not a part of the scene, which prevents the problems discussed above.

Or if you want to include the foreground make the panoramic angle similar to a more natural field of view.


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x_tan
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Mar 19, 2012 04:36 |  #14

Polarized wrote in post #14111585 (external link)
Thanks!

And I like the idea of using a telephoto lens.

Are panoramas of things far off in the distance (say an island across an ocean) more natural than something very close to the camera?

What is best in photoshop, cylindrical, perspective or auto? Or I should ask what do you all prefer?

I would try to cut off much fore group as much as possible, as the fore group reference give your brain those "unnatural distortion".

I can remember how many shoots to combine into below photo in Lightroom 3; I used 24-105L @ 58mm with EOS T2i / 550D, handhold, so about 92mm with 35mm full-frame camera:

IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5143/5636296365_4f61df5dd8_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/x_tan/563629636​5/] (external link)
Manapouri, New Zealand (external link) by X_Tan (external link), on Flickr

Full size image here: http://farm6.staticfli​ckr.com ...36296365_e688a083e9​_o.jpg (external link)

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x_tan
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Mar 19, 2012 04:42 |  #15

BTW, my photo is unnatural with lighting difference in the mountains - left sides of mountains were under full light; but right sides of mountains under the shadow.


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How do you deal with this issue when you take panoramas, such as beaches?
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