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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Urban Life & Travel Talk
Thread started 22 Mar 2012 (Thursday) 10:34
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Night skyline shots advice

 
ChaseMe
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Mar 22, 2012 10:34 |  #1

I'm sure this has been discussed so I hope I'm not being annoying!

I'm a bit of a n00b so I'm looking for some help with shooting a skyline at night. How do I keep the blacks black and not wash it out with light pollution with a long'ish shutter?

I'll be using a 60D w/ sigma 10-20, maybe my 50 1.8 a bit. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Canon 60D | 40 | 70-200 |

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Sirrith
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Mar 22, 2012 12:27 |  #2

I don't really think there's much you can do. It just depends on the place and atmospheric conditions.

For example, this is taken in Scotland, nice clean air:

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6042/6235837936_e615f8ab2f_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com ...s/noobography/62358​37936/] (external link)
IMG_9260 (external link) by noobographer (external link), on Flickr

whereas this was taken in Hong Kong, not so nice hazy air:
IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7156/6645606537_752f10b877_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com ...s/noobography/66456​06537/] (external link)
peak panorama (external link) by noobographer (external link), on Flickr

Exposure was about the same, yet one is brownish, one is less so. If you go on a clear night, you'll have less light pollution visible.

-Tom
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ChaseMe
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Mar 22, 2012 12:32 |  #3

Ya I hear that, I was going to go tomorrow night since it's forcasted to be clear and cold'ish. Your Scotland pic do you mind telling me the settings you used (f, ISO, etc)? That's where I'm most uncertain.


Canon 60D | 40 | 70-200 |

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Sirrith
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Mar 22, 2012 14:18 |  #4

That shot was taken at f10, 30 sec, ISO 200. Its usually just trial and error to get the balance you like between the lights and the darkness. Make sure to use a remote release or at the 2 sec timer.


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ChaseMe
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Mar 22, 2012 14:21 |  #5

Perfect, thanks so much. I have a remote yes.


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ScottyK86
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Mar 28, 2012 08:03 as a reply to ChaseMe's post |  #6

Forgive me for hijacking this thread, however I am also after some night time skyline advice as well.

I was wondering any tips to stop the lights flaring so much, so the neon signs and such just has a nice glow and are able to be seen clearly.

Here are a couple I have taken recently and I am just not happy with some of the lights.

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7115/7023755171_876e2491ff_z.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/scottyk86/70237​55171/] (external link)
Brisbane (external link) by ScottyK86 (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7190/6776659536_32e3e2f6ae_z.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/scottyk86/67766​59536/] (external link)
Cockle Bay (external link) by ScottyK86 (external link), on Flickr

Scottyk86 on Flickrexternal link

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x_tan
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Mar 29, 2012 22:43 |  #7

^Try to shoot the 'night sky' in the earlier evening before totally dark: as in total darkness, the camera need to get correct exposure from the lighting from surrounding buildings. So the building lighting / Neon will be inevitable "over-exposure' and loss all their 'detail'.


Canon 5D3 + Zoom (EF 17-40L, 24-105L & 28-300L, 100-400L II) & Prime (24L II, 85L II, 100L, 135L & 200 f/2.8L II; Zeiss 1,4/35)
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Nikon Coolpix A; Nikon F3 & F100 + Zeiss 1,4/50
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ejenner
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Apr 02, 2012 22:11 as a reply to x_tan's post |  #8

Yes, shoot at dusk (usually) - this takes experience to know exactly what the right light is, it usually lasts just about 10-15 minutes.

Also aperture is important. Large-ish (2.8-5.6) and lights will be crisp, small (f16-22) and they will be star-like.


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5DIII, 5DII, 7DII, S100. 10-22, Sig 15mm FE, 16-35 F4L IS, TS-E 17, Sig 18-250 OS Macro, 24-105, 70-200 f4 IS, 50 1.4, Sig 85 1.4,100L,135L, 400 DO II.
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Akrobatiks
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Apr 03, 2012 17:39 |  #9

Being from Chicago, I have photographed the skyline a lot. Shooting at blue hour is one of the best tips I can share with you, but you dont have to shoot then to get good results. You just have to learn the proper techniques. The way that I have found to get a perfect exposure everytime is to bracket your shots and then merge them manually in photoshop using layer masks... You just have to learn to recognize what parts of the skyline are going to be your problem areas and make sure you expose for them. Then master the art of blending each layer together to get the perfect exposure... Manual HDR if you will.

Here are a few of my night Chicago shots as examples...

IMAGE: http://www.jamielinkphotography.com/Portfolio/Cityscapes/i-M3WthWC/1/L/NorthBranchChicagoCItyscape-L.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.jamielinkph​otography.com ...888572&k=M3WthWC&lb​=1&s=A] (external link)

---------------

IMAGE NOT FOUND IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
http://www.jamielinkph​otography.com .../HubbardNOrthBranch​-L.jpg (external link)
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO


---------------

IMAGE: http://www.jamielinkphotography.com/Portfolio/Cityscapes/i-D5d4JwH/0/L/ChicagoSkyline290View-L.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.jamielinkph​otography.com ...117701&k=D5d4JwH&lb​=1&s=A] (external link)


---------------

IMAGE: http://www.jamielinkphotography.com/Portfolio/Cityscapes/i-q2BjKFT/0/L/ChicagoNorthAvePath-L.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.jamielinkph​otography.com ...076124&k=q2BjKFT&lb​=1&s=A] (external link)


---------------

IMAGE: http://www.jamielinkphotography.com/Portfolio/Cityscapes/i-42Q8zN4/0/L/BlueHourChicagoRiver-L.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.jamielinkph​otography.com ...289915&k=42Q8zN4&lb​=1&s=A] (external link)

---------------

IMAGE: http://www.jamielinkphotography.com/Portfolio/Cityscapes/i-2Zv5QR4/1/L/FullertonChicagoSkylineSunrise-L.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.jamielinkph​otography.com ...494074&k=2Zv5QR4&lb​=1&s=A] (external link)

---------------

IMAGE: http://www.jamielinkphotography.com/Portfolio/Cityscapes/i-5k7ndGB/2/L/ChicagoSunsetNortherlyIsland-L.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.jamielinkph​otography.com ...046438&k=5k7ndGB&lb​=1&s=A] (external link)

---------------

IMAGE: http://www.jamielinkphotography.com/Portfolio/Cityscapes/i-pRjpcbs/1/L/CloudGateLuminousLandscape-L.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.jamielinkph​otography.com ...179884&k=pRjpcbs&lb​=1&s=A] (external link)


As you can see, you can achieve great results both during and even after the magic light of blue hour is gone...!

JamieLinkPhotography.c​omexternal link
Body: EOS 5D Mark II - Battery Grip BG-E6
Glass: EF 14mm f/2.8L II USM - EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM - EF 50mm f / 1.2L USM - EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM - Extender EF 2x II - Extender 1.4x III

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Bianchi
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Apr 04, 2012 22:43 |  #10

^^^ Great shots


My Gear flickrexternal link

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gt1cm2
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Wellington, New Zealand
Apr 25, 2012 05:21 |  #11

Sorry newbie question here but what do you mean by blue hour?


Canon EOS 60D, EOS 6D | Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM, EF 35mm f/1.4L USM, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM |

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Lowner
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Apr 25, 2012 05:27 |  #12

gt1cm2 wrote in post #14324985external link
Sorry newbie question here but what do you mean by blue hour?

That time at dusk when the exposure includes some natural sky colour. Too late and what you see is reflected light from the artificial lighting.


Richard

http://rcb4344.zenfoli​o.comexternal link

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colintf
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Apr 25, 2012 06:27 as a reply to Lowner's post |  #13

great shots. Thankyou for sharing them with us :cool:




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gt1cm2
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Wellington, New Zealand
Apr 25, 2012 17:46 |  #14

Lowner wrote in post #14324999external link
That time at dusk when the exposure includes some natural sky colour. Too late and what you see is reflected light from the artificial lighting.

Right, gotcha. Thanks


Canon EOS 60D, EOS 6D | Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM, EF 35mm f/1.4L USM, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM |

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ChaseMe
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May 12, 2012 10:11 |  #15

Finally got a chance to go and take the shots. I'm not unhappy, but didn't really get what I had in mind in the end. Regardless, here they are:

Montreal from Mill

IMAGE: http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/zz256/jamesmcguinness/Misc/IMG_9134.jpg

Montreal from Concorde Bridge
IMAGE: http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/zz256/jamesmcguinness/Misc/IMG_9156.jpg

Canon 60D | 40 | 70-200 |

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Night skyline shots advice
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