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Waterdrop shots HOWTO

FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Still Life, B/W & Experimental Talk
Thread started 30 Apr 2012 (Monday) 17:31   
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Bambi72
Hatchling
Joined Apr 2012
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Bedfordshire England
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Hi,
I noticed quite a few threads about water drop shots, but no real how to for people wanting to know how to get some great shots, so I thought I would share what I have have picked up during my time as a drop addict.

They key to a good shot is freezing the action, and the best way to do this is to use your flash as the shutter, rather than your camera. Your on camera flash will work, but a separate flash gun is the best way. A flashgun can give you a burst of light as short as 1/20,000th of a second when its set to its lowest power, way faster than any DSLR's faster shutter speed. Using this in a dark(ish) room you can afford to set your shutter speed up to a 1 second exposure at ISO 200 or 400 without any loss in quality.

The next bit to master is getting your drops to land where you want them and a steady rate, especially if you are after collision shots like this.

IMAGE: http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4083/5036456345_117faa1431_m.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/bambi72/5036456​345/]external link

The easiest way to do this is to build a device known as a mariotte syphonexternal link which is basically a bottle with a tube out of the bottom for the water to drip through, and one through the top to regulate the air flow. The speed at which your drops drip is based on the height difference between the bottom of the air intake tube and the water outlet tube. Bigger the difference, the faster your flow of drops. You can knock one up with some fish tank airline tube, a coke bottle and some silicone sealer for a couple of pounds/dollars. The best thing about a mariotte syphon is that the drop rate will not change however full or empty your water bottle gets, it stays constant.

You are aiming for a flow of drips that is almost a constant stream but not quite, maybe 10 drops a second or so. Its hard to say, but if you get things dripping and just sit firing off your flash gun while staring at the splashes you will be able to see if they are colliding or not, as the image gets burned into your retina for a split second. Having a pile of cd's to adjust the height difference between your bottle and outlet pipe is also handy to adjust the flow rate of the drops.

OK so you have go this far, you must be on your way to becoming a true drop-head. ;)
Now you have your bottle dripping drips into your water tray, one hand on your camera remote release ( you have one of these dont you? makes life easier) one on your flash gun's test fire button. Fire off your cameras shutter, then hit the flash gun to set it off, after about 100 shots you might get one that's a keeper. Trust me once you get that first awesome shot you will be hooked. You do get an eye for the correct flow rate and once you get it right you will get collision after collision, and then it just down to timing the flash gun.

Right so now you have 'mastered' capturing collision shots ;-)a its time to think about making them look cool.
IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5168/5297406091_13a22df419_n.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/bambi72/5297406​091/]external link
You want a nice flat mill pond look with a magic splash in the middle, so you have to capture those first two drops hitting the water. Just hold a cup under the flow of drops (and have one hand on your camera remote release and one on your flash...) remove the cup, press the shutter, fire the flash and bingo! You all do have three hands right?
OK, I'll admit that last shot was taken using a trigger to fire the flash.

This is the next phase of your addiction, and this is where it starts costing you some money....
I started off with a infra-red beam trigger/delay unit bought from hi-vizexternal link, which 'watches' for a drip to pass thru an infra-red beam then fires your flash gun after a pre-determined delay. With one of these kits you can push your success rate from 1 in 100 to about 1 in 10 or less. They don't cost tooooo much either, and you don't have to know any electronics. If you can build an airfix plane, you can make one of these.

If you have got this far you probably don't need any help any more and you have googled stopshotexternal link, timemachineexternal link, and camera axeexternal link, and have seen what is commercially available to help you get those truly awesome shots. But if you are like me and don't have or like spending all that money there are cheaper ways to get sub-millisecond timing and total control over your water drops.

I think I will save this for another post if people are interested. have a peek at my crap websiteexternal link if you are. Oh and check out a flickr group I created for fellow drop-heads, Digital Dropsexternal link

Sorry if this rambled on a bit and doesn't make much sense, but I hope it helps someone out there.

Made with my homebrew timing kit...
IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5176/5521188172_c0427f5d46_t.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/bambi72/5521188​172/]external link
IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5211/5521370734_bdd4a45f14_t.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/bambi72/5521370​734/]external link
IMAGE NOT FOUND IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
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IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5165/5275571280_2d007f0245_t.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/bambi72/5275571​280/]external link

Post #1, Apr 30, 2012 17:31:06


Where did hate and intolerance get anyone.

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octanehammer
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Joined Oct 2011
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Thanks for the info Bambi. But I am still a bit befuddled about a few things. Mostly shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. I did see you mentioned a 1 second exposure, but wouldn't that create a blurred drop? Unless you are only firing the flash at the exact correct moment.

The only flash I have available is the on-board flash on my T1-I. I am also using the 18-55mm IS kit lens. I know I could use a faster lens, but when on a show string budget I'm trying to make do as best as I can.

Any tips you could recommend would be great. Thanks in advance. And the pics are awesome! :)

Patrick

Post #2, Apr 30, 2012 21:03:48


~Patrick~
Sony Cybershot DSC-H3
Canon EOS Rebel T1-i
EF S 18-55mm IS
EF S 55-250mm IS

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Bambi72
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Hatchling
Joined Apr 2012
9 posts
Bedfordshire England
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With an onboard flash you are a bit limited I'm affraid, as you cant trigger it independently, so the 1 second exposure trick wont really work for you.
You can pick up very cheap second hand flash units from e-bay, but be aware older flash guns use much higher voltages than modern ones and can fry your camera, but if you are only going to fire them by hand this isn't a problem.

Post #3, May 01, 2012 01:24:53 as a reply to octanehammer's post 4 hours earlier.


Where did hate and intolerance get anyone.

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Milutiche
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564 posts
Whangarei, New Zealand
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Cheers bambi, nice easy to follow "dummed down" tutorial, I'll have a go and post a couple of pics

Post #4, May 05, 2012 15:01:56


Gear List
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Sports Photos on Flickrexternal link

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huntersdad
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What do you guys recommend for a lens for this? I'm thinking a macro or something with a short MFD for focusing purposes, but could be wrong.

Post #5, May 08, 2012 21:46:13


WEBSITEexternal link / Facebookexternal link

1Dx, 1D4, 24-70 f/4, 70-200II, 100-400II, 600II, 1.4x/2x III, 600 EX-Rt, St-E3

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ncsa
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Joined Jun 2011
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Thanks Bambi - helpful thread... need to work on the lighting setup and camera positioning.

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7245/7273096098_cb249409f9_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ncsabkk/7273096​098/]external link
Testingexternal link by ncsabkkexternal link, on Flickr

Post #6, May 26, 2012 08:50:20


| my gear | flickrexternal link |

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fishbait
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Joined Dec 2011
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Video of drop shot with gun filmed at 4000 frames per second.

https://vimeo.com/4227​4885external link

Post #7, May 27, 2012 08:15:47




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AznGuitarist31
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Perfect, a thread on just what I needed! I am starting out doing high speed photography and I am wondering about lighting. These 2 were just tests using 1 500watt shop light, and wax paper as a backdrop.

IMAGE: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y177/keebaeklim/IMG_9947acopy.jpg
IMAGE: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y177/keebaeklim/IMG_0062acopy.jpg

I am wondering which is the best setup, to buy a ton of shop lights and create a setup like this? And just use the burst w/o any speedlites at all
IMAGE: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y177/keebaeklim/IMG_6897.jpg
So like 10 of them world be like $80 and I already have a sheet for a hi key white backdrop.

Or bite the bullet and get these and triggers
http://www.amazon.com ...rds=high+speed+sync​+flashexternal link

They have HSS capability

Any help would be appriciated!!!!!

Post #8, Jul 22, 2012 16:42:15




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fishbait
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Joined Dec 2011
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The image is captured with the flash, not the shutter. Shutters are much too slow to freeze the action.

Water drop shot with .22 caliber pellet. The action was captured with strobe firing at 1/38,000sec.

IMAGE: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/fishbait/DSC_0049.jpg?t=1282049926

IMAGE: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/fishbait/DSC_0059-3.jpg?t=1282050278

Post #9, Jul 22, 2012 17:56:35




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oscardog
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Joined Dec 2011
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wow thats amazing fishbait. So you do a slow shutter speed of like 1 second, and the flash exposes the shot 1/38,000 sec. What kinds of flashes are needed for those speeds?

Post #10, Aug 11, 2012 15:15:54


Gear: Canon 7d Mark II, Sigma 24mm 1.8, Canon 135L, Canon 70-200 f4 (non IS), Canon 400 5.6 L, Kenko 1.4x & 2x converters

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fishbait
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oscardog wrote in post #14845102external link
wow thats amazing fishbait. So you do a slow shutter speed of like 1 second, and the flash exposes the shot 1/38,000 sec. What kinds of flashes are needed for those speeds?

Most good quality strobes are capable the short flash duration needed for these shots. I use a standard Nikon SB900 flash for my shots. The room is darkened to minimize ambient light.

To get the short duration flash, it is necessary to reduce the power output dramatically. I set my strobe at the minimum power setting (1/128th power) which will give a 1/38,500 second flash duration. The issue is then compensating for the reduced light output and the high f-stop (f16) required for adequate depth-of-field. As flash duration is reduced, total light output is reduced correspondingly.

I place the strobes (usually two) as close to the action as possible for maximum light.

Check the performance specs for the flash you have or want to determine the minimum duration it is capable producing.

Here is a shot of a single water drop being shot as it falls. The timing required to get this shot was in increments of 100,000ths of a second.

IMAGE: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/fishbait/DSC_0015-2.jpg?t=1290943126

IMAGE: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/fishbait/DSC_0019-1.jpg?t=1290943196

Post #11, Aug 11, 2012 15:38:59




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