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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses
Thread started 03 Nov 2014 (Monday) 19:09
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What Lens(es) Would You Have To Take On This Trip?

 
Snydremark
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Issaquah, WA USA
Nov 03, 2014 23:53 |  #16

Buy a CPL as others have mentioned and shoot with what you have. Just remember that the front element of the 18-55 (and, maybe the 55-250) rotates during focus; so, focus first and then adjust the polarizer.

Since you're just getting started, those two should keep you plenty busy; you'll have plenty of time to come up with wants/desires for new lenses as your own style evolves.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

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davidfarina
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Nov 04, 2014 00:03 |  #17

Get the 10-18 if you can, or if you dont have a tripod invest there. Because seascapes and landscapes just really shine when you have a tripod for longer exposures.. Just my opinion as this is what i shoot most when im travelling..


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Melissa6
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Newfoundland, Canada
Nov 04, 2014 02:58 |  #18

Thanks everyone!

What do you guys think about this filter? http://www.bestbuy.ca ...6742c1039ab7b864c55​50en02external link

I'm considering that one because it's available locally. If I buy online, I am risking not receiving it before I leave (I'm in Canada, and shipping usually takes around 2 weeks from most places). Obviously, there are better filters out there, but is there any reason this one would not suit my needs?


Melissa

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melcat
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Joined Nov 2010
Melbourne, Australia
Nov 04, 2014 03:36 |  #19

Melissa6 wrote in post #17251082external link
What do you guys think about this filter? http://www.bestbuy.ca ...6742c1039ab7b864c55​50en02external link

I've encountered 3 problems with Hoya C-POLs:

- if you look at the picture, you can see that the ribbed part is on the part of the filter that rotates, not the part that screws onto the lens as B+W do it. Sometimes a filter requires a fair bit of force to get off due to temperature changes - but you're out of luck with this design, because the ribs stick up above the flat part and you can't grip the flat part. I once spent half an hour getting a Hoya filter off a lens using rubber bands, tea towels etc.

- I find Hoya HMC hard to clean.

- mine fell apart - the spring clip just unclipped itself. Fortunately I knew enough optics to put it together correctly. When I Googled, I found mine was not the only one to fall apart. In fairness, it's 15 years or more years old (left over from my medium format kit and happens to fit one Canon lens).

For these reasons, I won't be buying any more Hoya C-POL filters. Which is a shame, since they're the only higher-tier brand easily available here in Australia.

Honestly, I wouldn't worry too much about getting a C-POL. One *will* let you cut out reflections from water in some circumstances, but it's by no means a disaster if you can't do that.




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iroctd
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Nov 04, 2014 07:44 |  #20

melcat wrote in post #17251102external link
Sometimes a filter requires a fair bit of force to get off due to temperature changes

I agree with this. They can be quite the bear to get off just using your hand. And usually all you have to grip is a small 1/16th of a inch thickness ring. Just be careful about tightening.


-Feedback-

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farmer1957
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nevada
Nov 04, 2014 08:27 |  #21

Melissa6 wrote in post #17250616 (external link)
Thanks for your input, everyone.

Thanks for that info. When would you suggest I use the lens hood? For wider shots that include the sky or beach? Or for the majority of the time? (I realize that it's purpose is to block some of the light.)

Also, I realize that the filter would be for photographing the water... would a lens hood be used at the same time as the filter?

Thanks. I think you're right. That's probably why I've been hesitant to buy another lens in addition to the two that I have. :)



Use a lens hood to avoid lens flair from the sun's, light spectrum.

IMAGE: http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h454/mortuarymike/IMG_0167_zps7798db58.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://s1110.photobuck​et.com ...0167_zps7798db58.jp​g.html] (external link)


CPL"s filter out polarized reflection.
All forms of light puts out polarized reflection and if the light is reflected or even is softened almost everything produces polarized reflection.
Polarized reflection is commonly know as glare.

This picture is loaded with polarized reflection.
IMAGE: http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h454/mortuarymike/UPLOAD%20OF%20JANUARY%2027%20%202012/IMG_3266.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://s1110.photobuck​et.com ...%202012/IMG_3266.jp​g.html] (external link)
The only problem is some professional photographers don't like using a CPL.

Maybe a couple of books on photography and the study of light would be a bigger help.
LIght Sciene and Magic is a good book but really just covers indoor photography and the different lights being used.
A book on exposure might help too.

farmer



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Melissa6
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Nov 04, 2014 09:50 |  #22

melcat wrote in post #17251102external link
I've encountered 3 problems with Hoya C-POLs:

- if you look at the picture, you can see that the ribbed part is on the part of the filter that rotates, not the part that screws onto the lens as B+W do it. Sometimes a filter requires a fair bit of force to get off due to temperature changes - but you're out of luck with this design, because the ribs stick up above the flat part and you can't grip the flat part. I once spent half an hour getting a Hoya filter off a lens using rubber bands, tea towels etc.

- I find Hoya HMC hard to clean.

- mine fell apart - the spring clip just unclipped itself. Fortunately I knew enough optics to put it together correctly. When I Googled, I found mine was not the only one to fall apart. In fairness, it's 15 years or more years old (left over from my medium format kit and happens to fit one Canon lens).

For these reasons, I won't be buying any more Hoya C-POL filters. Which is a shame, since they're the only higher-tier brand easily available here in Australia.

Honestly, I wouldn't worry too much about getting a C-POL. One *will* let you cut out reflections from water in some circumstances, but it's by no means a disaster if you can't do that.

iroctd wrote in post #17251305external link
I agree with this. They can be quite the bear to get off just using your hand. And usually all you have to grip is a small 1/16th of a inch thickness ring. Just be careful about tightening.

Ok, I guess I will take my chances with ordering one online. Thanks!


Melissa

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Snydremark
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Issaquah, WA USA
Nov 04, 2014 09:54 |  #23

Melissa6 wrote in post #17250616 (external link)
...
Also, I realize that the filter would be for photographing the water... would a lens hood be used at the same time as the filter?

...

While one of the primary uses for a CPL is the removal of reflections on water, it also does a very nice job of boosting your colors, especially blues and greens. The two shots below were taken at the same time, with the same settings; the only difference was a CPL being used in the second shot.

W/o polarizer:

IMAGE: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60553404/Photos/samples/Polarizer/Unknown%20stream%20w_o%20Polarizer-1024.jpg

W/ polarizer:
IMAGE: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60553404/Photos/samples/Polarizer/Unknown%20stream-1024.jpg

For the most part using hood at the same time as a CPL isn't practical even in the situations where it may be 'possible'. In those situations, where the sun might be hitting the lens and causing flare, etc you can just shade it with your hand or a hat or something.

- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

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Melissa6
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Nov 04, 2014 09:55 |  #24

farmer1957 wrote in post #17251358 (external link)
Use a lens hood to avoid lens flair from the sun's, light spectrum.
QUOTED IMAGE
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://s1110.photobuck​et.com ...0167_zps7798db58.jp​g.html] (external link)


CPL"s filter out polarized reflection.
All forms of light puts out polarized reflection and if the light is reflected or even is softened almost everything produces polarized reflection.
Polarized reflection is commonly know as glare.

This picture is loaded with polarized reflection.
QUOTED IMAGE
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://s1110.photobuck​et.com ...%202012/IMG_3266.jp​g.html] (external link)
The only problem is some professional photographers don't like using a CPL.

Maybe a couple of books on photography and the study of light would be a bigger help.
LIght Sciene and Magic is a good book but really just covers indoor photography and the different lights being used.
A book on exposure might help too.

farmer

Thanks. I actually just read Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure". I'm still figuring out the hood/filter stuff as I have never used these before, and will probably understand them better through actual practice. :)


Melissa

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Melissa6
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Nov 04, 2014 10:03 |  #25

Snydremark wrote in post #17251522 (external link)
While one of the primary uses for a CPL is the removal of reflections on water, it also does a very nice job of boosting your colors, especially blues and greens. The two shots below were taken at the same time, with the same settings; the only difference was a CPL being used in the second shot.

W/o polarizer:
QUOTED IMAGE

W/ polarizer:
QUOTED IMAGE

For the most part using hood at the same time as a CPL isn't practical even in the situations where it may be 'possible'. In those situations, where the sun might be hitting the lens and causing flare, etc you can just shade it with your hand or a hat or something.

Wow... what a difference. So, you say these were shot with the same settings. You don't need to adjust exposure for the filter?


Melissa

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Snydremark
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Issaquah, WA USA
Nov 04, 2014 10:08 |  #26

Generally speaking, no. The difference isn't generally enough to need to worry about; in this case, for example, I had the polarizer mounted, it was just turned so that the effect was "off" for the first shot and "on" for the second. If you're shooting without the filter mounted at all, you might need to adjust your exposure slightly once you mount it.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

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RPCrowe
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San Diego County, California, USA
Nov 04, 2014 10:11 as a reply to farmer1957's post |  #27

Your present two lens kit should do quite well with the following additions:

1. CPL filter
The CPL filter will really improve the looks of your seaside imagery and will also darken the sky to bring the total image within the dynamic range of your camera and to really accentuate any clouds...

2. Lens hoods (IMO this is mandatory)
This is the least expensive way to protect your lenses and to prevent flare...

3. Decent tripod
Using a tripod and shooting around f/8 to f/11 will really level the playing field between kit lenses and top-line glass. It is amazing the quality imagery that can be achieved with kit lenses supported by a tripod...

I would be sure to practice with my gear so that you are not experimenting on your vacation. If you have not nailed down the performance of your camera/lenses shooting at ISO 100 (in bright conditions) in programmed mode with auto exposure bracketing and your camera on burst mode will ensure that you will bring home a set of very usable images... Use a higher ISO in darker conditions...

With Canon DSLR cameras using AEB in burst mode will provide 3 bracketed shots every time the shutter is pressed and then stop until the next time you press the shutter button...


See my images at http://rpcrowe.smugmug​.com/ (external link)

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iroctd
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Joined Aug 2013
Nov 04, 2014 10:15 as a reply to Melissa6's post |  #28

If you're without a hood and you notice flare in your viewfinder or reviewing your picture right after you've taken it then you can use your hand to block it and re-shoot the photo. Steady/rest the lens on your forearm or the inner "V" of your elbow and put your hand between the lens front and the sun. Just watch it with wide/ultra wide as you might be in your picture. This way you can still steady the lens. Holding a index card or similar sized card stock/cardboard/white balance card helps too. It is similar to hand holding a off camera flash by yourself.


-Feedback-

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Melissa6
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Newfoundland, Canada
Nov 04, 2014 11:29 |  #29

Thanks for all the tips!

I found another CPL filter that is available locally. Any known issues with this one? http://www.henrys.com ...IE-58MM-C-POL-FILTER.aspxexternal link


Melissa

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Snydremark
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17,862 posts
Gallery: 39 photos
Joined Mar 2009
Issaquah, WA USA
Nov 04, 2014 11:40 |  #30

Haven't heard of anyone using a CPL from Cokin, but their ND filters are a popular, budget alternative to the Lee system...so, it's probably not bad. Generally speaking, Marumi, B+W and Hoya are the brands most people stick with for CPLs.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

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