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Thread started 06 Nov 2015 (Friday) 19:25
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Adorama Streaklight 360 Deal

 
magicmikey
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Dec 31, 2015 20:02 as a reply to post 17838392 |  #166

After seeing this thread and reading everything I could find about the Streaklight/Godox 360, I sold my two Alienbees B400 units and my Vagabond II so that I could purchase three of the Streaklights. They came in yesterday and I have charged all 3 packs over the last two days. I won't get to run them through their paces for a couple of days but I'm looking forward to seeing how well they work. Fortunately, I picked up two of the Lowepro Nova Sport 35L bags on sale at Adorama before so they'll work great for these flash units.

I hope to get a lot of use out of these. I really didn't use the Vagabond II and strobes much because it wasn't that convenient. These will be a lot more convenient and more powerful than the B400s.




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ptcanon3ti
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Gloucester Co. NJ
Dec 31, 2015 20:40 |  #167

magicmikey wrote in post #17839569 (external link)
After seeing this thread and reading everything I could find about the Streaklight/Godox 360, I sold my two Alienbees B400 units and my Vagabond II so that I could purchase three of the Streaklights. They came in yesterday and I have charged all 3 packs over the last two days. I won't get to run them through their paces for a couple of days but I'm looking forward to seeing how well they work. Fortunately, I picked up two of the Lowepro Nova Sport 35L bags on sale at Adorama before so they'll work great for these flash units.

I hope to get a lot of use out of these. I really didn't use the Vagabond II and strobes much because it wasn't that convenient. These will be a lot more convenient and more powerful than the B400s.


Congrats! I'm looking forward to your impressions of the 360!


Paul
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/petshots/ (external link)
Body - Nikon D750
Lenses - Nikon 20 f1.8 / Nikon 16-35 f4 / Sigma 105 OS Macro / Sigma 24-105 f4 Art / Tamron 70-200 2.8 Di VC / Sigma 150-600 "S"

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ptcanon3ti
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Jan 08, 2016 16:57 |  #168

Shot taken with the 360...

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1648/24176312241_5ed46a6112_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CQnV​kF] (external link)Sara dance cl2 5410-2 (external link) by Paul (external link), on Flickr

Paul
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/petshots/ (external link)
Body - Nikon D750
Lenses - Nikon 20 f1.8 / Nikon 16-35 f4 / Sigma 105 OS Macro / Sigma 24-105 f4 Art / Tamron 70-200 2.8 Di VC / Sigma 150-600 "S"

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scorpio_e
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Pa
Jan 08, 2016 18:18 as a reply to magicmikey's post |  #169

The Lowepro Nova Sport 35L work great for storing the flash units.


www.steelcityphotograp​hy.com (external link)

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magicmikey
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Post has been edited over 1 year ago by magicmikey.
Jan 10, 2016 12:00 |  #170

I have just had enough time to do a quick test of the flash units (I bought three) but I'm pleased, so far. I did take a photo for an item I'll be selling. This was with a 36" shoot through umbrella for the main and just the standard reflectors on the two lights on the seamless paper.

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ptcanon3ti
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Gloucester Co. NJ
Jan 14, 2016 16:13 |  #171

I used 2 of the Streetlight 360s in stroboscopic mode for this shot. Both set to 1/64th power fired by the YN-622s and the 622TX

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1627/23995757139_fcfde13605_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Cyqw​AF] (external link)Becca strobe c 5498 (external link) by Paul (external link), on Flickr

Paul
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/petshots/ (external link)
Body - Nikon D750
Lenses - Nikon 20 f1.8 / Nikon 16-35 f4 / Sigma 105 OS Macro / Sigma 24-105 f4 Art / Tamron 70-200 2.8 Di VC / Sigma 150-600 "S"

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AnnieMacD
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Applecross, Scotland
Jan 14, 2016 17:20 |  #172

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #17858309 (external link)
I used 2 of the Streetlight 360s in stroboscopic mode for this shot. Both set to 1/64th power fired by the YN-622s and the 622TX

QUOTED IMAGE
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Cyqw​AF] (external link)Becca strobe c 5498 (external link) by Paul (external link), on Flickr

Really like this and it's very timely for me as I have a runner friend who wants me to do a similar thing - for her website. What lens did you use and how long an exposure? Any additional tips as I haven't tried this before.


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ptcanon3ti
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Jan 14, 2016 17:39 |  #173

AnnieMacD wrote in post #17858394 (external link)
Really like this and it's very timely for me as I have a runner friend who wants me to do a similar thing - for her website. What lens did you use and how long an exposure? Any additional tips as I haven't tried this before.

Hi Annie

I used a 24-105 lens at 24mm. I probably could have used my 16-35 but I was pressed for time...i was doing this as a demo.
It was a 2 second exposure. Flash set at 4Hz (flashes per second) for a total of 8 pops.

I'm definitely not an expert but here are my findings:

Use a deep DOF, I was at f11.
Have your subject stand at the distance you want them from your lens, achieve focus, then set the lens to manual focus.
make sure they move in a line parallel to your lens that follows your focal plane.
Try to keep the light off your back ground, unless you want your BG to be seen.
We were in absolute darkness as we began each exposure.

The faster your subject moves the more "space" between each image.

I think thats about it. let me know if you have any other questions. :)


Paul
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/petshots/ (external link)
Body - Nikon D750
Lenses - Nikon 20 f1.8 / Nikon 16-35 f4 / Sigma 105 OS Macro / Sigma 24-105 f4 Art / Tamron 70-200 2.8 Di VC / Sigma 150-600 "S"

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AnnieMacD
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Applecross, Scotland
Jan 14, 2016 18:00 |  #174

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #17858417 (external link)
Hi Annie

I used a 24-105 lens at 24mm. I probably could have used my 16-35 but I was pressed for time...i was doing this as a demo.
It was a 2 second exposure. Flash set at 4Hz (flashes per second) for a total of 8 pops.

I'm definitely not an expert but here are my findings:

Use a deep DOF, I was at f11.
Have your subject stand at the distance you want them from your lens, achieve focus, then set the lens to manual focus.
make sure they move in a line parallel to your lens that follows your focal plane.
Try to keep the light off your back ground, unless you want your BG to be seen.
We were in absolute darkness as we began each exposure.

The faster your subject moves the more "space" between each image.

I think thats about it. let me know if you have any other questions. :)

That's great information - thanks. I was going to use a 2 second exposure but was unsure as to the frequency of the flashes so I'll try the same as you. Didn't realize I need a good dof - I probably wouldn't have thought of that. I don't think I need to set the lens to manual as I use back-button focus, so I'll have her stand at the distance I want and use a flashlight to achieve focus then leave it be. I'll let you know how I get on but not sure when we'll be doing it as we need good weather conditions too.


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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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The Uwharrie Mts, NC
Jan 14, 2016 18:52 |  #175

AnnieMacD wrote in post #17858438 (external link)
That's great information - thanks. I was going to use a 2 second exposure but was unsure as to the frequency of the flashes so I'll try the same as you. Didn't realize I need a good dof - I probably wouldn't have thought of that. I don't think I need to set the lens to manual as I use back-button focus, so I'll have her stand at the distance I want and use a flashlight to achieve focus then leave it be. I'll let you know how I get on but not sure when we'll be doing it as we need good weather conditions too.

remember that your subject will be moving much faster than the dancer, might start with one second and 8Hz … unless the runner is starting from a stand still.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Formerly he's gone before apostrophe-gate | Not in gear database: Canon 70-210 3.5-4.5, Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 2x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

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AnnieMacD
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Applecross, Scotland
Jan 15, 2016 07:29 |  #176

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17858491 (external link)
remember that your subject will be moving much faster than the dancer, might start with one second and 8Hz … unless the runner is starting from a stand still.

Yes, I had thought of that and actually want fewer shots of her per frame, but I will play around with duration and frequency of the pops. Thanks.


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ptcanon3ti
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Joined Sep 2012
Gloucester Co. NJ
Jan 15, 2016 09:24 |  #177

AnnieMacD wrote in post #17859015 (external link)
Yes, I had thought of that and actually want fewer shots of her per frame, but I will play around with duration and frequency of the pops. Thanks.

When you get them, PLEASE post your shots! :-D


Paul
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/petshots/ (external link)
Body - Nikon D750
Lenses - Nikon 20 f1.8 / Nikon 16-35 f4 / Sigma 105 OS Macro / Sigma 24-105 f4 Art / Tamron 70-200 2.8 Di VC / Sigma 150-600 "S"

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AnnieMacD
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Applecross, Scotland
Jan 15, 2016 13:29 |  #178

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #17859120 (external link)
When you get them, PLEASE post your shots! :-D

Will do!


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werds
"Yes, Sire. You'll shut your trap!"
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Joined Mar 2014
Delaware
Jan 15, 2016 13:40 |  #179

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #17858417 (external link)
Hi Annie

I used a 24-105 lens at 24mm. I probably could have used my 16-35 but I was pressed for time...i was doing this as a demo.
It was a 2 second exposure. Flash set at 4Hz (flashes per second) for a total of 8 pops.

I'm definitely not an expert but here are my findings:

Use a deep DOF, I was at f11.
Have your subject stand at the distance you want them from your lens, achieve focus, then set the lens to manual focus.
make sure they move in a line parallel to your lens that follows your focal plane.
Try to keep the light off your back ground, unless you want your BG to be seen.
We were in absolute darkness as we began each exposure.

The faster your subject moves the more "space" between each image.

I think thats about it. let me know if you have any other questions. :)


Mmmm just the pictures and your explanation make me want to by a lighting setup that I have no need for atm :) Just to try it out! lol


Gear: Nikon D750, Nikon D7200, Sigma 17-50 2.8 OS, Sigma 50-150 2.8 OS HSM EX , Nikon 70-200 2.8 VR1, Tamron 24-70 2.8 VC, Tamron 70-200 2.8 VC, Tamron 28-300mm Di VC PZD, Tamron 16-300mm VC PZD, Tamron 150-600 VC, Nikon AF-S 50mm 1.8, Nikon SB-900
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ptcanon3ti
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Post has been edited over 1 year ago by ptcanon3ti.
Jan 15, 2016 13:46 |  #180

werds wrote in post #17859416 (external link)
Mmmm just the pictures and your explanation make me want to by a lighting setup that I have no need for atm :) Just to try it out! lol


hahaha..:) I'll tell ya. If you use speed lights but don't need TTL capability, these are the way to go! Serious power from these guys, 5-7 times more powerful that the best speedlights, at 2/3 the price of a Canon RT600 or a Nikon SB910. And they're really well made. These are a no brainer especially at the special price.


Paul
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/petshots/ (external link)
Body - Nikon D750
Lenses - Nikon 20 f1.8 / Nikon 16-35 f4 / Sigma 105 OS Macro / Sigma 24-105 f4 Art / Tamron 70-200 2.8 Di VC / Sigma 150-600 "S"

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Adorama Streaklight 360 Deal
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