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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Astronomy & Celestial
Thread started 20 Oct 2011 (Thursday) 11:46
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Milkyway nightscapes

 
RedHeart
Member
Joined Oct 2012
Feb 24, 2016 13:07 |  #2806

Although I bought an used FF camera last year, I don't own any UWA lens for 35mm sensor, so I shoot my astroscapes with my old Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 (always at 16mm).
This time around, i felt like doing something different, and went for it at 11mm. As expected, I got a very hard vignette :)

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1498/24978563191_75975c0f38_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/E4gE​AB] (external link)Stars! (external link) by J.L.Silva (external link), on Flickr



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archer1960
Goldmember
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Joined Jul 2010
Feb 24, 2016 19:50 as a reply to RedHeart's post |  #2807

I've done that too (11-16 on FF), but with not as nice of results as you got.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

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NCHANT
Goldmember
Joined Jul 2012
Auckland, New Zealand
Feb 29, 2016 03:58 |  #2808

I used to use my EF-S 10-22mm on my 6D when I first got it, had awesome results form 15-22mm, but 13-14 got severe viginetting.

Finally made a video on how I make and process my panoramas, feel free to watch :)

https://youtu.be/ziIQp​Gk4Jhs (external link)


6D | 600D | A6000 | 10-22mm ƒ3.5-4.5 USM | 24-105mm ƒ4L USM | TM 35mm ƒ1.8 VC | 40mm ƒ2.8 STM | 50mm ƒ1.8 | 85mm ƒ1.8 | 135mm ƒ2L | 200mm ƒ2.8L II | 55-250 ƒ4.5-5.6 II | Sy 24mm ƒ1.4 | Sy 14mm ƒ2.8
Flickr (external link) | Facebook (external link)

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danialsturge
Senior Member
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809 posts
Joined Aug 2014
Sheffield, England
Post has been edited over 1 year ago by danialsturge.
Mar 02, 2016 05:17 |  #2809

A re-edit from last summer:

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1485/25344057141_def790ed2a_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/EByV​dr] (external link)Into the Volcano (external link) by Danial Sturge (external link), on Flickr

X100T | flickr (external link)

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NCHANT
Goldmember
Joined Jul 2012
Auckland, New Zealand
Mar 03, 2016 00:47 |  #2810

I've made another video tutorial, this time on how to create the bokeh stars/tilt-shift effect in Photoshop :)

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=k0O9jHjGVzQ (external link)


6D | 600D | A6000 | 10-22mm ƒ3.5-4.5 USM | 24-105mm ƒ4L USM | TM 35mm ƒ1.8 VC | 40mm ƒ2.8 STM | 50mm ƒ1.8 | 85mm ƒ1.8 | 135mm ƒ2L | 200mm ƒ2.8L II | 55-250 ƒ4.5-5.6 II | Sy 24mm ƒ1.4 | Sy 14mm ƒ2.8
Flickr (external link) | Facebook (external link)

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EOS-Mike
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Joined Oct 2013
Atlanta, Georgia
Mar 05, 2016 18:24 |  #2811

Is it possible to shoot a decent night sky (a general Milky Way pic) with my 24-105L? Max aperture is 4.0.

I was thinking of giving it a go tonight out in the country away from the light. I'd also like to use a flashlight and focus stack a couple pics so that I can put an old building in the foreground.

Finally, is it possible to get the Milky Way (or a decent night sky) in a neighborhood with street lights? I want to be able to expose for both (even if using separate photos stacked).

Thanks


Canon 6D, 24-105L, 50mm 1.8 stm

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archer1960
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Joined Jul 2010
Mar 05, 2016 18:27 as a reply to EOS-Mike's post |  #2812

Yes, your 24-105 should be decent. It's only 1 stop slower than the 2.8's that most people use. You'll just need to get longer exposures. The streetlights are a different matter, though. They will likely drown out the MW.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

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TCampbell
Senior Member
Joined Apr 2012
Mar 05, 2016 20:11 as a reply to EOS-Mike's post |  #2813

You might be able to push the 24-105 f/4 to a 30 second exposure at the 24mm focal length at f/4 if it's on a solid tripod. I wouldn't try to go longer than 30 seconds (technically 25 seconds is the rule of 600 for a full-frame camera like your 6D).

You'll want the darkest sky conditions you can get... away from any sources of urban light pollution and you'll want a moonless night (check the calendar to find a night near the new moon.)




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swltr
Senior Member
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Joined Nov 2013
Germany
Mar 06, 2016 11:34 |  #2814

Aurora Australis and Milky Way

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7798/18209667108_0929965bc2_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/tK8i​BJ] (external link)Aurora Australis & Milky Way (external link) by Steffen Walther (external link), auf Flickr

http://www.steffenwalt​her-photographics.de (external link)
500px (external link)
flickr (external link)

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Davenn
Senior Member
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Joined Jun 2013
Sydney, Australia
Mar 06, 2016 19:58 |  #2815


Hawea aye ... my old stomping ground in that region mainly for snow ski-ing :-)

I am originally from the Dunedin area out on the east coast
Hope you enjoyed your NZ trip


Dave


A picture is worth 1000 words ;)
Canon 5D3, 6D, 700D, a bunch of lenses and other bits, ohhh and some Pentax stuff ;)

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RedHeart
Member
Joined Oct 2012
Mar 07, 2016 18:24 |  #2816

EOS-Mike wrote in post #17924857 (external link)
Is it possible to shoot a decent night sky (a general Milky Way pic) with my 24-105L? Max aperture is 4.0.

I was thinking of giving it a go tonight out in the country away from the light. I'd also like to use a flashlight and focus stack a couple pics so that I can put an old building in the foreground.

Finally, is it possible to get the Milky Way (or a decent night sky) in a neighborhood with street lights? I want to be able to expose for both (even if using separate photos stacked).

Thanks

I'd say it is pretty possible ;-)a

IMAGE: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/340/20166273699_bb1dc2c1a2_z.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/wJ2q​A8] (external link)Into the night! (external link) by J.L.Silva (external link), on Flickr



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MedicineMan4040
The Magic Johnson of Cameras
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Joined Jul 2013
Mar 11, 2016 01:58 as a reply to Davenn's post |  #2817

Woohoo to Dunedin and Speights Brewery :)


flickr (external link)
Vid Collection: https://www.youtube.co​m/user/medicineman4040 (external link)

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rndman
Senior Member
Joined Apr 2008
Mar 13, 2016 08:41 |  #2818

RedHeart wrote in post #17927334 (external link)
I'd say it is pretty possible ;-)a

QUOTED IMAGE
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/wJ2q​A8] (external link)Into the night! (external link) by J.L.Silva (external link), on Flickr

This is really nice.
So what I understand is

1. the aperture should be at least f/4 if not larger
2. Should be away from city lights and a moonless night
3. 25s (or max 30s) exposure
4. Widest focal length possible.
5. You must stack the images. (Is this really necessary?)

Is 40mm f/2.8 or 50mm f/1.8 preferred to 24-105 f4?


Flickrexternal link

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Aks6674
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Joined Jan 2016
Dallas, Tx. USA
Post has been last edited over 1 year ago by Aks6674. 2 edits done in total.
Mar 13, 2016 10:04 as a reply to rndman's post |  #2819

As with most problems, there are different ways to skin this cat and each comes with some level of compromise.

In general 1-4 are correct. The shorter your focal length, the longer exposure you can get away with before the stars start to trail. The longer the exposure, the lower you can go on the ISO, though at F4 you'll need to be at least at 3200 I'd think, more likely 6400.

So, if you go with either your 40 or 50, you're going to have to use a shorter exposure time (I'd guess you can get away with about 10 seconds on full frame, less on a crop body). That shorter time will require a higher ISO, so more noise.

As for stacking, I've seen some really awesome stacked shots, and some equally awesome single shots. Depends on your purpose really.

If I were you, I'd start simply. Use your widest lens, ISO 6400 If your body can do it, largest aperture. Once you've got a few shots there, start experimenting with different time/ISO combos (I wouldn't stop down past F4). Once you have that down, slap on on of the other lenses, open it up, halve the exposure time and maybe the ISO, and repeat. You'll find your sweet spot after a few tries.

A few tips:

Find a good foreground BEFORE it gets dark. Most places you'll want to do this are very dark indeed.

Get a headlamp or cap light. You'll use it a ton.

Turn off autofocus. Use live view and magnify on the brightest star you can find, focus on it manually, then turn off live view to shoot.

Get a cheap remote release. Wired is fine, unless you want to be in the shot. It can be a pain to rely on a 2 second timer.

If you want to illuminate (light paint) any foreground, get a variable power flashlight. Consider bouncing it off your hand to avoid hotspots.


Hope these help.

Aks


"Owning lots of expensive gear is very important. I helps those of us without talent appear as if we really know what we're doing" (Belmondo)

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Celestron
Cream of the Crop
8,403 posts
Gallery: 1 photo
Joined Jun 2007
Texas USA
Mar 13, 2016 12:48 |  #2820

If you use a headlamp or cap lamp which I totally agree with cause I use one all the time, be sure get one with a red light . Red light is eye friendly and won't leave your eyes waiting to dark adapt each time you turn it on .




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