Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Read More.
OK
Index  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting
Thread started 25 Mar 2016 (Friday) 09:21
Prev/next
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as registered member)

Seriously---so many choices--help please.

 
Hatch1921
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Hatch1921's Avatar
Joined Mar 2006
Phoenix AZ
Mar 29, 2016 21:17 |  #31

Angmo wrote in post #17954008 (external link)
With the new Skyport HS Pro I shoot my Elinchrom ELC 1000s and Ranger RX AS with S head outdoors. Just did a shoot and used 1/5000 2.8 with no problems at all.

Plenty of power. I bring Buf VLX Extreme battery inverters along.

ELC 1000s don't weigh much and replacing the Eli battery in the Ranger with lithium drops weight by, what?? 5 pounds? Works well and I keep all my Eli modifiers.


I sold my Ranger RX/AS last month.. with two "A" heads. I wanted to purchase the new Eli trigger and an "S" head. I went to Elinchroms website and they have the "S" head listed as not optimized for HSS. So... I sold the pack... looking from something a little lighter and easier to use. I never made used of the 1100ws... maybe 500-600 at best. Love Elinchrom but I'm going to give something else a try this time around. That isn't saying I won't consider the ELB400 HS kit in the future.

It's great you are getting the results out of your pack you wanted. Very cool!

thanks for the info.
Hatch

HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS---Lighting Guides and More! (external link)
MAIN SITE (external link)
Great site to buy gear through and save some money. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Greentoe.com (external link)

LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as registered member)
Angmo
Senior Member
Angmo's Avatar
Joined Dec 2015
AZ-USA
Mar 29, 2016 22:57 as a reply to Hatch1921's post |  #32

I wrote Elinchrom about their compatibility matrix that changes once in a while. While the RX AS with S head was "downgraded" and the ELCs weren't supposed to work either. Seems they both work just fine.

They said it all depends on the camera too. I've got Nikons. Been great!! Will try my F5 film body sometime. See if that works.

As for the power, HS eats more power and the RX AS and ELC1000 has plenty for HS.


Nikons, Rolleiflexes, Elinchroms

LOG IN TO REPLY
Ulysses01
Senior Member
Joined Jul 2013
Mar 29, 2016 23:34 |  #33

Hatch1921 wrote in post #17949052 (external link)
The Godox strobes look promising... then again.. the Baja 4/6 from the videos of shooters using them on location appear to be a nice solution as well. LOL The madness!

Hatch, you sound like you've lined up too many dates for the evening, bro. :-P

Just be careful you don't get hindered from some meaningful shooting by Analysis Paralysis, where you're just waiting for some perfect, magical feature to come along that will determine the way you ought to go.

I'm betting that by now you already have some inclination, some idea of which strobes are in your personal top two choices. ;)




LOG IN TO REPLY
Hatch1921
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Hatch1921's Avatar
Joined Mar 2006
Phoenix AZ
Mar 30, 2016 08:04 |  #34

Angmo wrote in post #17954190 (external link)
I wrote Elinchrom about their compatibility matrix that changes once in a while. While the RX AS with S head was "downgraded" and the ELCs weren't supposed to work either. Seems they both work just fine.

They said it all depends on the camera too. I've got Nikons. Been great!! Will try my F5 film body sometime. See if that works.

As for the power, HS eats more power and the RX AS and ELC1000 has plenty for HS.


I'm shooting with the 5Ds... no clue if I would have any issues with the S head or not? Glad to hear the system is working with some cameras.

Hatch


FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS---Lighting Guides and More! (external link)
MAIN SITE (external link)
Great site to buy gear through and save some money. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Greentoe.com (external link)

LOG IN TO REPLY
Hatch1921
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Hatch1921's Avatar
Joined Mar 2006
Phoenix AZ
Mar 30, 2016 08:07 |  #35

Ulysses01 wrote in post #17954205 (external link)
Hatch, you sound like you've lined up too many dates for the evening, bro. :-P

Just be careful you don't get hindered from some meaningful shooting by Analysis Paralysis, where you're just waiting for some perfect, magical feature to come along that will determine the way you ought to go.

I'm betting that by now you already have some inclination, some idea of which strobes are in your personal top two choices. ;)


Analysis Paralysis----- pretty much sums it up ROFL! As far as the top choices... I don't know... :) Maybe Cheetah, Interfit, Rovelight,Baja4, Indra, ElB400? LOL

Analysis Paralysis :)
Hatch


FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS---Lighting Guides and More! (external link)
MAIN SITE (external link)
Great site to buy gear through and save some money. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Greentoe.com (external link)

LOG IN TO REPLY
OceanRipple*
Senior Member
752 posts
Joined Dec 2014
Post has been edited over 1 year ago by OceanRipple*.
Mar 30, 2016 09:24 |  #36

Hatch1921 wrote in post #17949042 (external link)
8-) shades required :)

Yes.. I agree with you about HSS and the flash output. Lots of options out there... I like that the Interfit S1 can be used on battery or with the included A/C adapter/cord. Several nice reviews about the strobe. Not certain which direction I will go just yet. Choices!

You also need to think through the triggering options/limitations as well.

For instance, to date, there are no separate receiver units to Intefit's SI setup, with which to incorporate other lights.
The Rovelight/Jinbei HD600 can have its M power settings changed remotely from the camera position. This is done with its own radio sender, pre-shot, the triggering itself probably by an 'HSS-like timing' capable trigger, eg Yn622s, Odins (my choice) or the Godox X1 etc. This provides Supersync or 'ODS' timing from Odins etc.

I would recommend understanding the difference between the Supersync options & true Pulsing HSS/FP Sync. for overcoming the focal plane shutter limitations in bright sunlight with flash. They share a common need to start the flash early but differ in how they briefly emulate continuous illumination just for the duration of the shutter blades' travel. The former, eg Eli's 'Plus HS' setup always has a modest gradient across the whole frame. OTOH, Profoto's pulsing is pretty contstant while confusingly, Godox's pulsing fades in power slightly as the blades travel.




LOG IN TO REPLY
dmward
Cream of the Crop
Joined Jun 2009
Metro Chicago
Post has been edited over 1 year ago by dmward.
Mar 30, 2016 11:22 |  #37

OceanRipple* wrote in post #17954565 (external link)
You also need to think through the triggering options/limitations as well.

This is an important consideration. In my view its a combination of the core system capabilities along with the ability to add lights from other manufacturers with minimal problems. For example; the Godox X system supports ETTL with its lights and will also support ETTL with other manufacturer's lights that can be placed in a receiver hotshoe. And manual lights via a sync port. There are others that do similar.

OceanRipple* wrote in post #17954565 (external link)
OTOH, Profoto's pulsing is pretty contstant while confusingly, Godox's pulsing fades in power slightly as the blades travel.

I suspect that the difference is due to capacitor and circuitry design. Its reasonable to expect that Profoto, given its price point, has a more rigorously designed pulsing circuit and larger capacitor capacity relative to output requirements.
Practically speaking the only time that the gradian is obvious is when there is a smooth surface close enough to the main subject to get essentially the same exposure from the light as the subject.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

LOG IN TO REPLY
twohoots
Junior Member
28 posts
Joined Jan 2016
Mar 30, 2016 14:07 |  #38

The Indras have serious issues with color shift, if that helps you to at least cross one light off your list.




LOG IN TO REPLY
Hatch1921
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Hatch1921's Avatar
Joined Mar 2006
Phoenix AZ
Mar 30, 2016 15:12 |  #39

OceanRipple* wrote in post #17954565 (external link)
You also need to think through the triggering options/limitations as well.

For instance, to date, there are no separate receiver units to Intefit's SI setup, with which to incorporate other lights.
The Rovelight/Jinbei HD600 can have its M power settings changed remotely from the camera position. This is done with its own radio sender, pre-shot, the triggering itself probably by an 'HSS-like timing' capable trigger, eg Yn622s, Odins (my choice) or the Godox X1 etc. This provides Supersync or 'ODS' timing from Odins etc.

I would recommend understanding the difference between the Supersync options & true Pulsing HSS/FP Sync. for overcoming the focal plane shutter limitations in bright sunlight with flash. They share a common need to start the flash early but differ in how they briefly emulate continuous illumination just for the duration of the shutter blades' travel. The former, eg Eli's 'Plus HS' setup always has a modest gradient across the whole frame. OTOH, Profoto's pulsing is pretty contstant while confusingly, Godox's pulsing fades in power slightly as the blades travel.


dmward wrote in post #17954707 (external link)
This is an important consideration. In my view its a combination of the core system capabilities along with the ability to add lights from other manufacturers with minimal problems. For example; the Godox X system supports ETTL with its lights and will also support ETTL with other manufacturer's lights that can be placed in a receiver hotshoe. And manual lights via a sync port. There are others that do similar.

I suspect that the difference is due to capacitor and circuitry design. Its reasonable to expect that Profoto, given its price point, has a more rigorously designed pulsing circuit and larger capacitor capacity relative to output requirements.
Practically speaking the only time that the gradian is obvious is when there is a smooth surface close enough to the main subject to get essentially the same exposure from the light as the subject.

twohoots wrote in post #17954856 (external link)
The Indras have serious issues with color shift, if that helps you to at least cross one light off your list.


Thanks again all for the information. I have read the Indra does have some color shift issues... not cool. I've also found a couple of posts talking about the trigger systems on some of these systems. Godox/Cheetah appears to be pretty solid from most of the posts I've come across. The Rovelight ... this was the biggest issue most users reports as the weakness of the system.

Lots to think about and thanks again for taking the time to share your thoughts.

Hatch


FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS---Lighting Guides and More! (external link)
MAIN SITE (external link)
Great site to buy gear through and save some money. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Greentoe.com (external link)

LOG IN TO REPLY
Hatch1921
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Hatch1921's Avatar
Joined Mar 2006
Phoenix AZ
Mar 30, 2016 15:46 |  #40

Any feedback on this setup vs something like Rovelight or the Interfit S1? I think this would be a good start... and I like the idea of being able to get the heavy head off the light stand with the extension head. Plus... I could use the trigger with another trigger for my speedlights.... correct?

thanks,
Hatch

HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS---Lighting Guides and More! (external link)
MAIN SITE (external link)
Great site to buy gear through and save some money. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Greentoe.com (external link)

LOG IN TO REPLY
dmward
Cream of the Crop
Joined Jun 2009
Metro Chicago
Mar 30, 2016 16:03 as a reply to Hatch1921's post |  #41

I'd rather have two C stands for those lights.
If you are convinced you need the auto collapsing leg Cheetah stand I think the 10 ft version is better for these lights, especially with the larger modifier you're indicating.
First listing is light with trigger, then the light and trigger separately. Why not two light/trigger combos?


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

LOG IN TO REPLY
Hatch1921
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Hatch1921's Avatar
Joined Mar 2006
Phoenix AZ
Mar 30, 2016 16:06 |  #42

dmward wrote in post #17954976 (external link)
I'd rather have two C stands for those lights.
If you are convinced you need the auto collapsing leg Cheetah stand I think the 10 ft version is better for these lights, especially with the larger modifier you're indicating.
First listing is light with trigger, then the light and trigger separately. Why not two light/trigger combos?


It's the light and trigger combo, it is just how the cart is displayed. The 10ft stand is a good suggestion... I'll swap it out. A second C stand... no need that I can see as I will only have 1 strobe...

Thanks for the ideas... good call on the 10ft stand.
Hatch


FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS---Lighting Guides and More! (external link)
MAIN SITE (external link)
Great site to buy gear through and save some money. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Greentoe.com (external link)

LOG IN TO REPLY
Ulysses01
Senior Member
Joined Jul 2013
Mar 31, 2016 00:58 |  #43

Hatch1921 wrote in post #17954979 (external link)
It's the light and trigger combo, it is just how the cart is displayed. The 10ft stand is a good suggestion... I'll swap it out. A second C stand... no need that I can see as I will only have 1 strobe...

Thanks for the ideas... good call on the 10ft stand.
Hatch

Hatch, a few questions and observations:

1. Are you shooting professionally, or for fun and enthusiasm?

2. Are you shooting primarily in a single room? or will you be going to a lot of different locations frequently?

3. I've had the C8 stands for a few years now. I like them for their light weight. But other than mounting a regular flash, it's not enough stand for much else.

4. Do you need to do it all at once? Buying new stuff is exciting, believe me. But you also don't want to buy and have items sitting on the shelf for extended periods, wasting your purchase. I recommend buying ONE substantial modifier, and maximize your usage as you test its limits. Don't buy gear simply to test and compare it. Buy it to put it to use. Then as you see the need for it, but another modifier to augment what you're already using.

5. The Dim Sum plate — if you're using the CL-600X or even a CL-360X inside the RiceBowl, you don't really need the Dim Sum plate. The reason is because that plate is intended more to help a regular flash to distribute its narrow beam of light out into the RiceBowl. But a bare bulb flash is already distributing its light around the entire RiceBowl.


I have other thoughts about the Extension Head and the design of this accessory, for example. But I'll leave that alone. :-)




LOG IN TO REPLY
Hatch1921
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Hatch1921's Avatar
Joined Mar 2006
Phoenix AZ
Mar 31, 2016 08:19 |  #44

Hatch, a few questions and observations:

1. Are you shooting professionally, or for fun and enthusiasm?


Professional enthusiast? Professional hobbyist? Hobbyist who can possibly shoot at a professional level quality wise? LOL :) I'm looking to shoot the occasional weekend to fund my hobby or just to be creative? I can't see me walking away from my current job and making more $$$ than I'm making now. Well... maybe if I were 20 years younger knowing what I know now about photography and business...but I think that's the case for many of us? Right? That's just life isn't it... hindsight is 20/20 as the saying goes.


2. Are you shooting primarily in a single room? or will you be going to a lot of different locations frequently?

The majority of my sessions several years ago were on location, either indoors at the clients house or outdoors.


3. I've had the C8 stands for a few years now. I like them for their light weight. But other than mounting a regular flash, it's not enough stand for much else
.

The 12ft stand is in the cart now.. same price as the 10ft.


4. Do you need to do it all at once? Buying new stuff is exciting, believe me. But you also don't want to buy and have items sitting on the shelf for extended periods, wasting your purchase. I recommend buying ONE substantial modifier, and maximize your usage as you test its limits. Don't buy gear simply to test and compare it. Buy it to put it to use. Then as you see the need for it, but another modifier to augment what you're already using.


I have the Elinchrom Deep Octa, I'll pick up the Bowen/Eli speedring to adapt it to whatever Bowens mount strobe I end up purchasing. A couple of modifiers would be nice to have options. I typically take a few to a shoot (and a few strobes back in the day) to have more options available. Most location shoots, I'd use one or two modifiers and reflectors. So…to answer your question, I think this is a good base kit to get me started. This is why I'm going to start with just the one strobe and build from there if need be. I've never used more than 4 lights at a shoot... with the majority of the sessions being one light and reflectors.


5. The Dim Sum plate — if you're using the CL-600X or even a CL-360X inside the RiceBowl, you don't really need the Dim Sum plate. The reason is because that plate is intended more to help a regular flash to distribute its narrow beam of light out into the RiceBowl. But a bare bulb flash is already distributing its light around the entire RiceBowl.


Good to know and thanks for info. :)


So... the idea (fantasy) I have is to buy a base kit and do a few shoots this year while I'm in school/working and then in 2017... School will be out of the way and I can focus on photography on the weekends. I really/truly miss shooting and being creative. Not to give my life history... :) .. The past four years, it’s been school nonstop... (From no degree to MBA) and the last couple of years, I added work to the mix. To say it's been a busy four years is an understatement. I retired from the Air Force, had a strange transition period, where I was supposed to pursue photography as my profession, and I didn't. (fail) I have the "itch" if you will to give this another try. I simply want to have my creative outlet back and if I can make a few $$$'s to fund more gear... bonus!

I hope some of this makes sense... thanks for the input/questions.

Hatch


FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS---Lighting Guides and More! (external link)
MAIN SITE (external link)
Great site to buy gear through and save some money. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Greentoe.com (external link)

LOG IN TO REPLY
Ulysses01
Senior Member
Joined Jul 2013
Mar 31, 2016 08:52 |  #45

Hatch1921 wrote in post #17955694 (external link)
I hope some of this makes sense... thanks for the input/questions.

Happy to help. The questions are to help you think through where you really are right now, distinguishing between what you WANT and what you may actually NEED. There's also a difference between what you'd need in terms of reliable, transportable, practical gear when you do this on the daily versus when you do it occasionally. :-)

All the things you have in your cart look like great choices. I'm always a fan of ramping up slowly, though, because I'm a charter member of the Modifier Closet Club, with so many pieces that I thought were awesome to BUY because of all the excitement over them, but found I don't actually take out into the field.

Take an inventory of what you already have. Think about how often you actually use it. And go from there. That goes for lights, triggers, modifiers, all of it.

YMMV.




LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as registered member)

6,545 views & 2 likes for this thread
Seriously---so many choices--help please.
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting


Not a member yet? Click here to register to the forums.
Registered members get all the features: search, following threads, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, settings, view hosted photos, own reviews and more...


AAA

Send feedback to staff    •   Jump to forum...    •   Rules    •   Index    •   New posts    •   RTAT    •   'Best of'    •   Gallery    •   Gear    •   Reviews    •   Polls

COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Privacy policy and cookie usage info.

POWERED BY AMASS 1.4version 1.4
made in Finland
by Pekka Saarinen
for photography-on-the.net
Spent 0.00313 for 6 database queries.
PAGE COMPLETED IN 0.03s
Latest registered member is smurkej
933 guests, 470 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 6106, that happened on Jun 09, 2016