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FORUMS Other Digital Cameras Medium Format Digital Cameras and Backs
Thread started 18 Oct 2015 (Sunday) 09:03
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Pentax 645D

 
Tareq
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Nov 04, 2015 21:59 |  #16

You should have bought a macro lens, then do some stacking focus then you will be blown away with the resolution and details.


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Kolor-Pikker
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Nov 05, 2015 12:29 as a reply to Tareq's post |  #17

The 120mm A and FA are fairly inexpensive used, so is never a big investment to add one to your kit. They both have the same optics, so if you don't need AF (say for portraits), then the A can be had for a dime.


5DmkII | 24-70 f/2.8L II | Pentax 645Z | 55/2.8 SDM | 120/4 Macro | 150/2.8 IF
I acquired an expensive camera so I can hang out in forums, annoy wedding photographers during formals and look down on P&S users... all the while telling people it's the photographer, not the camera.

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thc1979
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Mar 08, 2016 09:56 |  #18

I upgraded today to a 645Z. I've only done some indoor tests but I wish I had bought this from day one!


Canon EOS 1D X Mark II | Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Tough TG-4 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM, TS-E 24.0mm f/3.5 L II, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF 16-35 f/4 L IS USM, EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM | Samyang 24mm f/1.4 ED AS UMC | Canon Speedlite 430EX II, Dedicated flash ST-E3 RT controller , Speedlite 600EX-RT | Yongnuo YN 600EX RT

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Kolor-Pikker
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Mar 08, 2016 11:33 as a reply to thc1979's post |  #19

Great to hear! Hope you like it, and ask questions if you got any.
As always don't forget to avoid over-exposing images with this camera, highlight retention is so-so, but the shadows are endless.


5DmkII | 24-70 f/2.8L II | Pentax 645Z | 55/2.8 SDM | 120/4 Macro | 150/2.8 IF
I acquired an expensive camera so I can hang out in forums, annoy wedding photographers during formals and look down on P&S users... all the while telling people it's the photographer, not the camera.

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thc1979
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Mar 08, 2016 14:18 |  #20

Kolor-Pikker wrote in post #17928152 (external link)
Great to hear! Hope you like it, and ask questions if you got any.
As always don't forget to avoid over-exposing images with this camera, highlight retention is so-so, but the shadows are endless.

Shadow recovery is like magic. Can't wait to try some sunsets, although for best quality I will most likely bracket as normal! But from what I saw today, no noise was brought through with the shadow recovery.


Canon EOS 1D X Mark II | Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Tough TG-4 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM, TS-E 24.0mm f/3.5 L II, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF 16-35 f/4 L IS USM, EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM | Samyang 24mm f/1.4 ED AS UMC | Canon Speedlite 430EX II, Dedicated flash ST-E3 RT controller , Speedlite 600EX-RT | Yongnuo YN 600EX RT

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Kolor-Pikker
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Mar 08, 2016 23:43 as a reply to thc1979's post |  #21

Assuming ISO100, you only start to see noise after a 4-stop push, and even then it's a fine grain that's mostly visible at 100% on-screen - up to you to decide if cleaner shadows are worth bracketing for.

I haven't actually had the need to bracket for a while now, the contrast of such a compressed dynamic range is just too low to look pleasant in many scenes, and also, many of the Pentax lenses themselves don't have enough contrast to actually reproduce the tonal range that a full 5-shot bracket can capture. Glare and veiling are going to be your biggest hurdles here; I never really thought I'd get to use a camera where the lens could be the limiting factor in DR.


5DmkII | 24-70 f/2.8L II | Pentax 645Z | 55/2.8 SDM | 120/4 Macro | 150/2.8 IF
I acquired an expensive camera so I can hang out in forums, annoy wedding photographers during formals and look down on P&S users... all the while telling people it's the photographer, not the camera.

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thc1979
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Mar 10, 2016 01:58 |  #22

Kolor-Pikker wrote in post #17928851 (external link)
Assuming ISO100, you only start to see noise after a 4-stop push, and even then it's a fine grain that's mostly visible at 100% on-screen - up to you to decide if cleaner shadows are worth bracketing for.

I haven't actually had the need to bracket for a while now, the contrast of such a compressed dynamic range is just too low to look pleasant in many scenes, and also, many of the Pentax lenses themselves don't have enough contrast to actually reproduce the tonal range that a full 5-shot bracket can capture. Glare and veiling are going to be your biggest hurdles here; I never really thought I'd get to use a camera where the lens could be the limiting factor in DR.

I'm confused (it's early here!). Do you bracket or push the shadows? What do you mean by the compressed dynamic range?


Canon EOS 1D X Mark II | Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Tough TG-4 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM, TS-E 24.0mm f/3.5 L II, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF 16-35 f/4 L IS USM, EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM | Samyang 24mm f/1.4 ED AS UMC | Canon Speedlite 430EX II, Dedicated flash ST-E3 RT controller , Speedlite 600EX-RT | Yongnuo YN 600EX RT

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Kolor-Pikker
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Mar 11, 2016 07:36 |  #23

thc1979 wrote in post #17930166 (external link)
I'm confused (it's early here!). Do you bracket or push the shadows? What do you mean by the compressed dynamic range?

I almost always push the shadows, I tried bracketing on a few occasions and got basically the same result but with slightly cleaner shadows, something that probably wasn't worth the effort for the subject at hand. Here's what deep shadows look like pushed 4 stops with shadow recovery and no NR:

IMAGE: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41183616/_IMG1829%20copy.jpg

The green bit is not supposed to have that grainy pattern to it, but it's also barely perceptible because you're looking at a 100% crop from a 51mp file. I could print this at A1 size and the noise would still be lost in the texture of the paper.

What I mean by compressed DR is when you apply a ton of recovery the image ends up looking very bland overall, it's easy to over-estimate how much DR you actually need to print the subject with sufficient pop, versus what the camera can actually capture. Because of this, my default 645Z profile on import is set to increase contrast, clarity, vibrance and saturation by 10 points, because even without any recovery the images come out of the camera very flat compared to what I was used to with the 5D2 and 645D.

5DmkII | 24-70 f/2.8L II | Pentax 645Z | 55/2.8 SDM | 120/4 Macro | 150/2.8 IF
I acquired an expensive camera so I can hang out in forums, annoy wedding photographers during formals and look down on P&S users... all the while telling people it's the photographer, not the camera.

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thc1979
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Mar 11, 2016 14:30 as a reply to Kolor-Pikker's post |  #24

I took a test image this morning at ISO100 metered on the sky, which was fairly bright, and the shadow recovery did virtually nothing up or down. When i increased the exposure by about 4 stops the image was fairly clear but with a blown out sky


Canon EOS 1D X Mark II | Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Tough TG-4 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM, TS-E 24.0mm f/3.5 L II, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF 16-35 f/4 L IS USM, EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM | Samyang 24mm f/1.4 ED AS UMC | Canon Speedlite 430EX II, Dedicated flash ST-E3 RT controller , Speedlite 600EX-RT | Yongnuo YN 600EX RT

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Kolor-Pikker
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Mar 12, 2016 03:37 as a reply to thc1979's post |  #25

Shadow recovery is an adaptive adjustment, and varies in intensity depending on how much dark content there is, I first noticed this while stitching panos and found out the shadow recovery lightened each image differently.

In order to get the whole range of tones in from deep shadows to highlights, you should start by pushing the exposure and then use highlight recovery to bring the highlights back down. Add shadow recovery at the end to taste, it's actually more noticeable after an exposure push, probably due to how deep the shadows are in relation to everything else.


5DmkII | 24-70 f/2.8L II | Pentax 645Z | 55/2.8 SDM | 120/4 Macro | 150/2.8 IF
I acquired an expensive camera so I can hang out in forums, annoy wedding photographers during formals and look down on P&S users... all the while telling people it's the photographer, not the camera.

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thc1979
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Mar 31, 2016 11:15 |  #26

I tested it out, both of these were heavily underexposed because of the low light but bright sky. Nothing fancy done, just some tweaks in LR. I actually bracketed both of these but could not use any of the brackets as all the boats and the clouds were moving, so I had no option but to play with one image, and the sharpest were the underexposed ones.

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Canon EOS 1D X Mark II | Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Tough TG-4 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM, TS-E 24.0mm f/3.5 L II, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF 16-35 f/4 L IS USM, EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM | Samyang 24mm f/1.4 ED AS UMC | Canon Speedlite 430EX II, Dedicated flash ST-E3 RT controller , Speedlite 600EX-RT | Yongnuo YN 600EX RT

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