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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 May 2015 (Tuesday) 23:30
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CheetahStand​ RiceBowl RB-90 / RB-120

 
absplastic
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Mar 04, 2016 10:42 |  #256

FWIW, I did my own "chopstick" test with the RB-120 and found out that this mounting option was, in a word, useless. In a true parabolic, like the Briese or the Broncolor copies, the shape of the reflector is mathematically precise such that there is a focal point. With the strobe tube at the focal point, you get a nice large light source. Pushing the light behind the focal point gets you a very small hotspot (not too useful) and as you pull the light in front of the focal point, you get a ring-shaped light source that moves towards the outer rim of the reflector. This ring light acts gives a very nice even illumination of the subject without directional shadows and without a center hotspot, just like a beauty dish used close up. This effect is why people get these modifiers.

So, what I did for my test was set up the RB-120 with a boom stand on the center axis, with an unfolded 600ex-rt speedlite on the end. I had a Sto-fen diffusor on the speedlite so that it acts as a point source, much like a strobe head with a frosted dome. What I found is that I did not get the light patterns of a parabolic, and that the RB-120 has no focal point. It behaves more like an umbrella, pretty much filling the reflector no matter where I put the strobe. Needless to say, I was a little disappointed, but not surprised as I knew the RB-120 was not parabolic. It's a great modifier when used as intended, fantastic in fact, but I see no reason to indirectly mount the light in an adjustable way. The Dim sum reflector makes more sense to me for this product.


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abbadon31
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Mar 04, 2016 10:53 |  #257

I find indirect to produce a different light and not sure about your comment. It changes the focus of light and has a different effect then umbrella, but again everyone has their right to ther own opinion. ;)


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absplastic
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Mar 04, 2016 11:18 |  #258

abbadon31 wrote in post #17923239 (external link)
I find indirect to produce a different light and not sure about your comment. It changes the focus of light and has a different effect then umbrella, but again everyone has their right to ther own opinion. ;)

It does still direct the light more than an umbrella due to depth, yes. But I was not able to get the ring light effect with mine, no matter where I placed the light source along the center axis. If it's of value to people considering this option, I can make a video of sliding a bare LED bulb from back to front along the axis, sufficiently stopped down to see the lighting pattern. I might have time Sunday to do this and Youtube it. I was trying to reproduce Karl Taylor's demonstration of the Broncolor paras.


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calico
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Mar 04, 2016 11:51 as a reply to  @ absplastic's post |  #259

I tried to produce that "ring of light" with parabolic umbrellas without any success.
Here is a good video of Proncolor para where at 01:57 ring of light is visible. https://vimeo.com/3280​4725 (external link)
I'd like to know if that's possible just with Broncolor and Briese. I'm afraid I won't like the answer.




  
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absplastic
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Mar 04, 2016 12:00 |  #260

calico wrote in post #17923315 (external link)
I tried to produce that "ring of light" with parabolic umbrellas without any success.
Here is a good video of Proncolor para where at 01:57 ring of light is visible. https://vimeo.com/3280​4725 (external link)
I'd like to know if that's possible just with Broncolor and Briese. I'm afraid I won't like the answer.

My inability to get this effect is why I'm working on this modification:

http://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1451130

That is version 1.0, made from inferior materials and a bit too large, but I'm remaking it with proper mirror-coated black rip-stop nylon and will follow up with the end results when I have it done and have used it on a shoot.


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calico
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Mar 04, 2016 12:24 as a reply to  @ absplastic's post |  #261

Haha yes good idea. Please do follow up.
I was thinking of putting a disc or a cone in front of a strobe like on this little graph. I'll try it this summer.


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abbadon31
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Post edited over 2 years ago by abbadon31.
     
Mar 04, 2016 12:47 |  #262

The purpose of a para is to focus and throw light a longer distance. Don't take is as a umbrella/octa/softbox, or strip. If your shooting at 4 feet that not what it was made for.


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kn_guy87
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Mar 04, 2016 14:53 |  #263

absplastic wrote in post #17923221 (external link)
FWIW, I did my own "chopstick" test with the RB-120 and found out that this mounting option was, in a word, useless. In a true parabolic, like the Briese or the Broncolor copies, the shape of the reflector is mathematically precise such that there is a focal point. With the strobe tube at the focal point, you get a nice large light source. Pushing the light behind the focal point gets you a very small hotspot (not too useful) and as you pull the light in front of the focal point, you get a ring-shaped light source that moves towards the outer rim of the reflector. This ring light acts gives a very nice even illumination of the subject without directional shadows and without a center hotspot, just like a beauty dish used close up. This effect is why people get these modifiers.

So, what I did for my test was set up the RB-120 with a boom stand on the center axis, with an unfolded 600ex-rt speedlite on the end. I had a Sto-fen diffusor on the speedlite so that it acts as a point source, much like a strobe head with a frosted dome. What I found is that I did not get the light patterns of a parabolic, and that the RB-120 has no focal point. It behaves more like an umbrella, pretty much filling the reflector no matter where I put the strobe. Needless to say, I was a little disappointed, but not surprised as I knew the RB-120 was not parabolic. It's a great modifier when used as intended, fantastic in fact, but I see no reason to indirectly mount the light in an adjustable way. The Dim sum reflector makes more sense to me for this product.

Good to know. Thanks for the info




  
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absplastic
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Mar 04, 2016 19:21 |  #264

kn_guy87 wrote in post #17923549 (external link)
Good to know. Thanks for the info

Before losing hope, see also this discussion:

http://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=17923869

My test with the speedlite is not ideal, and nixland is getting better results with a bare bulb and similar softbox.


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Post edited over 2 years ago by PhilF. (2 edits in all)
     
Mar 04, 2016 21:20 |  #265

absplastic wrote in post #17923263 (external link)
I can make a video of sliding a bare LED bulb from back to front along the axis, sufficiently stopped down to see the lighting pattern. I might have time Sunday to do this and Youtube it. I was trying to reproduce Karl Taylor's demonstration of the Broncolor paras.

would really appreciate it.

Using the RB-90 for high school wrestling portraits


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Post edited over 2 years ago by Ulysses01.
     
Mar 07, 2016 01:07 |  #266

abbadon31 wrote in post #17923387 (external link)
The purpose of a para is to focus and throw light a longer distance. Don't take is as a umbrella/octa/softbox, or strip. If your shooting at 4 feet that not what it was made for.

I think what absplastic is getting at (and I've seen the same thing in demos) is that the Rice Bowl may give you more throw, but it's not able to actually focus the light, kinda like having a lens of the wrong shape can't quite focus the light in the way you might want. Still, changing the throw can be useful. :-)




  
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Apr 05, 2016 10:25 |  #267

The 120 is on order... looking forward to shooting with it. Nice example shots in the thread btw.

Thanks for all the info.
Hatch



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h_scott_a
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Aug 18, 2016 16:31 |  #268

I've used my RB-90 on 3 shoots now and love it. I do, however, have some feedback regarding the 4 color coded rod tips that you match to the speedring. The 4 color coded rods have a slight indentation in the tip where the paint is applied. After only being used twice, the red is completely gone and the green is getting there. While it's possible to figure out what goes where after finding the indented tips, being able to see the color does save some time & frustration, especially if setting up in the shade.

My solution: I had a pack of Scotch/3M #35 1/2" colored electrical tape (Red, Green, Blue, Yellow & White). I simply cut a length of about an inch off of the roll and wrapped it around the rod right below the metal tips. The larger area with color enables you to find the correct rod even quicker. Colored heat shrink would work as well but I already had the tape for color coding wires.

Not sure if Edward would be interested in this modification but something similar would definitely last longer than paint on the metal tips on the rods that is easily scraped off with use.




  
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Post edited over 1 year ago by absplastic. (2 edits in all)
     
Aug 18, 2016 17:50 as a reply to  @ h_scott_a's post |  #269

The paint is worn off on mine as well, but it doesn't really matter since the color coding was arbitrary. I just assemble it by putting every 4th rod into every 4th hole, then put in all the ones in between, no care for what color goes where. The whole assembly rotates on the speedring, so it has no bearing on final orientation.


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abbadon31
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Aug 18, 2016 21:15 |  #270

absplastic wrote in post #18099411 (external link)
The paint is worn off on mine as well, but it doesn't really matter since the color coding was arbitrary. I just assemble it by putting every 4th rod into every 4th hole, then put in all the ones in between, no care for what color goes where. The whole assembly rotates on the speedring, so it has no bearing on final orientation.

That all depends on if your using the RiceBowl Color Coded U Bracket and the placement of the zipper, because the U bracket don't spin.


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CheetahStand​ RiceBowl RB-90 / RB-120
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