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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Macro Talk
Thread started 17 May 2016 (Tuesday) 07:14
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Manual lens with no auto diaphragm

 
orionmystery
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May 17, 2016 07:14 |  #1

I have been using my Laowa 15mm for close to a year now. At first, I had the aperture preset to like F11. The viewfinder became dark and focusing was difficult, even with focusing light.

After a while, I find it easier to focus wide open at F4, and once focus is achieved, I will dial the aperture ring all the way to F32, then back a little, "without looking". I have no idea what aperture I use!

So the question is: is there any gadget/contraption that will allow me to dial the aperture ring to a desired value. Something like a stopper.

Thanks
Kurt


Kurt, 70D/40D, Laowa 15mm, 60mm F2/270EX, MP-E65/MT-24EX for full flash (external link), Sigma 150 +1.4x TC for natural light (external link).
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LordV
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Post has been last edited over 1 year ago by LordV. 2 edits done in total.
May 17, 2016 11:32 |  #2

Is there any way you could attach a long cable tie to the aperture ring so your most desired aperture is in a position indicated by the grip bit of the cable tie at a set position eg 3 oclock on the lens?
Brian V.


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orionmystery
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May 17, 2016 21:55 |  #3

LordV wrote in post #18010092 (external link)
Is there any way you could attach a long cable tie to the aperture ring so your most desired aperture is in a position indicated by the grip bit of the cable tie at a set position eg 3 oclock on the lens?
Brian V.

Thanks, Brian. I guess that's one idea.


Kurt, 70D/40D, Laowa 15mm, 60mm F2/270EX, MP-E65/MT-24EX for full flash (external link), Sigma 150 +1.4x TC for natural light (external link).
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Borneo Herp Tour Nov 2017 (external link)

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Dalantech
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May 18, 2016 02:50 |  #4

Expanding on Brian's idea: What about a small drop of hot glue on both the aperture ring and the F11 mark on the lens? That way you could set the aperture by aligning the dots with your fingers. Would save you from having to go all the way to F32 and back -just take the aperture ring to the "F11 dot".


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orionmystery
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May 18, 2016 03:12 |  #5

Dalantech wrote in post #18010811 (external link)
Expanding on Brian's idea: What about a small drop of hot glue on both the aperture ring and the F11 mark on the lens? That way you could set the aperture by aligning the dots with your fingers. Would save you from having to go all the way to F32 and back -just take the aperture ring to the "F11 dot".

Thanks John. Yes, I thought of the same thing too!


Kurt, 70D/40D, Laowa 15mm, 60mm F2/270EX, MP-E65/MT-24EX for full flash (external link), Sigma 150 +1.4x TC for natural light (external link).
Plan a macro/herping trip with us:
Borneo Herp Tour Nov 2017 (external link)

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davholla
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May 18, 2016 06:23 |  #6

orionmystery wrote in post #18009856 (external link)
I have been using my Laowa 15mm for close to a year now. At first, I had the aperture preset to like F11. The viewfinder became dark and focusing was difficult, even with focusing light.

After a while, I find it easier to focus wide open at F4, and once focus is achieved, I will dial the aperture ring all the way to F32, then back a little, "without looking". I have no idea what aperture I use!

So the question is: is there any gadget/contraption that will allow me to dial the aperture ring to a desired value. Something like a stopper.

Thanks
Kurt

Could you use live view? I find the light that way is a lot better.




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orionmystery
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May 18, 2016 09:06 |  #7

davholla wrote in post #18010877 (external link)
Could you use live view? I find the light that way is a lot better.

I tried 3 different methods:

1) view finder - lens closed down - didn't work for me and I missed focus a lot

2) view finder - lens wide open, and close down only before pressing shutter - works best for me

3) live view, then 5x/10x zoom to fine tune focus. Very slow, and not always easy to keep steady depending on subject height.


Kurt, 70D/40D, Laowa 15mm, 60mm F2/270EX, MP-E65/MT-24EX for full flash (external link), Sigma 150 +1.4x TC for natural light (external link).
Plan a macro/herping trip with us:
Borneo Herp Tour Nov 2017 (external link)

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Dave ­ Webster
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May 18, 2016 12:43 |  #8

Your other option would be rather expensive and that would be to buy a mirrorless cam like Sony A7 or Fuji X series then you could leave it set at whatever f stop you like and have the cam set to exposure simulation and you would be able to see what your getting in viewfinder or rear display.
After you had also bought the appropriate lens adaptor.
This is something ive been thinking about doing as i bought a Venus 60mm and it drives me nuts vmad i wish i hadnt forked out the money now but it seemed like a good idea at the time :rolleyes:




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maverick75
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Post has been edited over 1 year ago by maverick75.
May 18, 2016 14:19 |  #9

Dave Webster wrote in post #18011200 (external link)
Your other option would be rather expensive and that would be to buy a mirrorless cam like Sony A7 or Fuji X series then you could leave it set at whatever f stop you like and have the cam set to exposure simulation and you would be able to see what your getting in viewfinder or rear display.
After you had also bought the appropriate lens adaptor.
This is something ive been thinking about doing as i bought a Venus 60mm and it drives me nuts vmad i wish i hadnt forked out the money now but it seemed like a good idea at the time :rolleyes:


When you flip a Canon into Live View it DOES go into exposure simulation. The beauty of the Mirror-less cameras is you can turn off exposure simulation, what this does is that it gives you a bright image on the screen.

if i were taking a picture of something at ISO100, F/11, 1/250 (with flash) the live view would be completely dark since it doesn't compensate for the flash. With exposure simulation turned OFF the camera will automatically brighten up the screen to be workable.


You can get this feature on Canons by installing Magic Lantern, which also gives you focus peaking and magic zoom.

Even then so my Sony A7 is a billion times easier to focus than my Canon 7D Mark II, Sony really built those cameras to shine with manual focus lenses. I don't even have trouble with f/1.2-1.4 glass and moving subjects, as crazy as that sounds, it's that good.


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orionmystery
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May 18, 2016 21:14 |  #10

Dave Webster wrote in post #18011200 (external link)
Your other option would be rather expensive and that would be to buy a mirrorless cam like Sony A7 or Fuji X series then you could leave it set at whatever f stop you like and have the cam set to exposure simulation and you would be able to see what your getting in viewfinder or rear display.
After you had also bought the appropriate lens adaptor.
This is something ive been thinking about doing as i bought a Venus 60mm and it drives me nuts vmad i wish i hadnt forked out the money now but it seemed like a good idea at the time :rolleyes:

Thanks, Dave. Yes, I think it will work nicely on mirrorless cam like the A7. The reason I don't preset the aperture to say F11 or F16 is not just because of dark viewfinder, but also difficulty in focusing, due to the deeper DOF since the lens has closed down. But with the focus peaking, i think this is not an issue anymore.


Kurt, 70D/40D, Laowa 15mm, 60mm F2/270EX, MP-E65/MT-24EX for full flash (external link), Sigma 150 +1.4x TC for natural light (external link).
Plan a macro/herping trip with us:
Borneo Herp Tour Nov 2017 (external link)

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orionmystery
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May 18, 2016 21:17 |  #11

maverick75 wrote in post #18011296 (external link)
When you flip a Canon into Live View it DOES go into exposure simulation. The beauty of the Mirror-less cameras is you can turn off exposure simulation, what this does is that it gives you a bright image on the screen.

if i were taking a picture of something at ISO100, F/11, 1/250 (with flash) the live view would be completely dark since it doesn't compensate for the flash. With exposure simulation turned OFF the camera will automatically brighten up the screen to be workable.

You can get this feature on Canons by installing Magic Lantern, which also gives you focus peaking and magic zoom.

Even then so my Sony A7 is a billion times easier to focus than my Canon 7D Mark II, Sony really built those cameras to shine with manual focus lenses. I don't even have trouble with f/1.2-1.4 glass and moving subjects, as crazy as that sounds, it's that good.

I have tried the live view on my 70D at night, with typical setting of 1/200, F11, ISO200, and Fenix E11/E12 as focusing light. It works fine! The LCD (live view) will be dark until you double tap the shutter button.


Kurt, 70D/40D, Laowa 15mm, 60mm F2/270EX, MP-E65/MT-24EX for full flash (external link), Sigma 150 +1.4x TC for natural light (external link).
Plan a macro/herping trip with us:
Borneo Herp Tour Nov 2017 (external link)

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Dave ­ Webster
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May 19, 2016 06:37 as a reply to orionmystery's post |  #12

Aha i see the problem now, trying to see the actual point of focus -? I hope Laowa start making these lenses with auto diaphram sometime soon.
Have you ever tried a super wide angle lens with extension tubes ? Im wondering if you would get a similar affect to your 15mm but obviously not such a wide field of view, and still have auto aperture control for focusing ?




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orionmystery
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May 19, 2016 06:50 |  #13

Dave Webster wrote in post #18011889 (external link)
Aha i see the problem now, trying to see the actual point of focus -? I hope Laowa start making these lenses with auto diaphram sometime soon.
Have you ever tried a super wide angle lens with extension tubes ? Im wondering if you would get a similar affect to your 15mm but obviously not such a wide field of view, and still have auto aperture control for focusing ?

I'll be the first to buy a Laowa 15mm Mark II :D.

You won't need any tubes on the Laowa 15mm. But if you're using other wide angle lenses with less than 0.5X magnification, why not?


Kurt, 70D/40D, Laowa 15mm, 60mm F2/270EX, MP-E65/MT-24EX for full flash (external link), Sigma 150 +1.4x TC for natural light (external link).
Plan a macro/herping trip with us:
Borneo Herp Tour Nov 2017 (external link)

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Ramon-uk
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May 22, 2016 08:42 |  #14

maverick75 wrote in post #18011296 (external link)
When you flip a Canon into Live View it DOES go into exposure simulation.
if i were taking a picture of something at ISO100, F/11, 1/250 (with flash) the live view would be completely dark since it doesn't compensate for the flash. With exposure simulation turned OFF the camera will automatically brighten up the screen to be workable.

You can get this feature on Canons by installing Magic Lantern, which also gives you focus peaking and magic zoom.

With most Canon DSLRs you can turn off exposure simulation in live view without needing to install magic lantern.




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