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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Transportation Talk
Thread started 17 May 2016 (Tuesday) 15:52
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seaninsa
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May 17, 2016 15:52 |  #1

I recently attended the Planes of Fame. I was shooting at a low shutter speed on Shutter Priority and noted that my Aperture was really low and so my pictures was not as sharp. Due to the light, would it be recommended that I use a Polarizing Filter in the future?




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PhotosGuy
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May 17, 2016 20:13 |  #2

Yes/no/maybe? How about showing us a problem image with all the exposure info, along with telling us your highest usable ISO?


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seaninsa
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May 17, 2016 20:18 as a reply to PhotosGuy's post |  #3

The problem is when shooting a prop plane you want to shoot at a low shutter speed and the sun is out. This results in a very low F stop. Remember it is the inverse. So you are shooting around F22 or higher. I am wondering if a polarized filter would help increase the F stop.




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BigAl007
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May 18, 2016 04:10 |  #4

I would avoid a CPL, the effect changes as you change your relative position to the sun, so your correct exposure would be constantly changing. If it really is so bright that you are at ISO 100 and f/22, which would, from Sunny 16, imply that you were using a shutter speed of 1/50s I would be considering using a couple of stops of ND filter. With an ND at least the effect is consistent for all shots, not just in one specific direction. I say this because really if the conditions are that bright I would expect that there are no clouds to cause the actual levels of light to change from shot to shot, and shooting in manual exposure mode would give more consistent exposures than using any of the autoexposure modes.

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PhotosGuy
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May 18, 2016 07:34 |  #5

I tend to agree with Alan, the effects are most prominent at 90-degrees to the sun.
http://img.photobucket​.com ...edPano_2.jpg?t=1223​469164 (external link)

So the effect would depend on where the AC is in relation to the sun. Also, you should read this: Shooting airshows in Manual


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
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Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
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seaninsa
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May 18, 2016 12:44 as a reply to BigAl007's post |  #6

I was shooting at 1/200 most of the Planes of Fame Airshow and in TV mode. I was just wondering if there was a way to increase the F stop because at F22 the pics are not as sharp as you hope them to be.




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joewend76
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Post has been last edited over 1 year ago by joewend76. 2 edits done in total.
May 18, 2016 13:12 |  #7

Get an Neutral Density(ND) filter. You can keep your ISO 100 and 1/200 shutter. Depending on what strength filter you pick you would see your f-stop closer to F8, which would be ideal.




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Snydremark
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May 18, 2016 13:54 |  #8

I've used CPLs for airshows in the past and while it does help reduce light by a stop or two, that doesn't balance out the issues that are mentioned above. The CPL is nice for shooting the static displays, but I'd pull it for the airshow portion itself. An ND filter, as long as you get a good, quality one should help out, though. Do not fall for the trap of variable ND from this discussion, however; variable NDs are accomplished by sandwiching 2 CPLs together, so you get the same CPL weaknesses that were mentioned by the other posters. Just map out what your max ISO and fastest shutter you're willing to go with for the prop planes and then calculate out what the exposure difference is to get the power of NDs that you need for that purpose. Most likely you're going to want to start around 3 stops to really do you any good for this in sunny conditions.


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seaninsa
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May 18, 2016 14:03 as a reply to Snydremark's post |  #9

Which ND would anyone recommend? I am not a big fan of filters as I believe you have a good piece of glass and then some crappy filter then your glass is now crap imo.




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BigAl007
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May 22, 2016 02:33 |  #10

seaninsa wrote in post #18011202 (external link)
I was shooting at 1/200 most of the Planes of Fame Airshow and in TV mode. I was just wondering if there was a way to increase the F stop because at F22 the pics are not as sharp as you hope them to be.

So what ISO were you shooting at? For ISO 100 and 1/200 I would never really expect to have to go smaller than f/11. To get 1/200 and f/22 implies that you are either shooting at ISO 400 or are underexposing by several stops. All of my exposures are based on using Sunny 16, i.e. ISO 100, 1/100s, f/16 for the brightest sunny day. If the reciprocal of your shutter speed is higher than your ISO and you are shooting outdoors in full noonday sun you should never really be able to exceed f/16.

Alan


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Perfectly ­ Frank
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Post has been edited over 1 year ago by Perfectly Frank.
May 22, 2016 21:03 |  #11

seaninsa wrote in post #18011272 (external link)
Which ND would anyone recommend? I am not a big fan of filters as I believe you have a good piece of glass and then some crappy filter then your glass is now crap imo.

You need a 0.6 ND filter. This is what I use. There are other densities available, but 0.6 works well when shooting at low shutter speeds to capture prop blur.
I've used B+W and Heliopan filters, both are excellent. Here's one that will work on your Sigma 150-600 (but check the specs just to be sure).

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com ...ity.html/pageID/acc​essory (external link)

A CPL filter can be a nice benefit for static shots. It can reduce glare and bright light, and enhance color. But it can be difficult to use for AIF.


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Perfectly ­ Frank
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May 22, 2016 21:10 |  #12

BigAl007 wrote in post #18014847 (external link)
So what ISO were you shooting at? For ISO 100 and 1/200 I would never really expect to have to go smaller than f/11. To get 1/200 and f/22 implies that you are either shooting at ISO 400 or are underexposing by several stops. All of my exposures are based on using Sunny 16, i.e. ISO 100, 1/100s, f/16 for the brightest sunny day. If the reciprocal of your shutter speed is higher than your ISO and you are shooting outdoors in full noonday sun you should never really be able to exceed f/16.

Alan

Look at the OP's POF post. At ISO 100, 1/200, he was getting f20 and f25.


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RPCrowe
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Post has been edited over 1 year ago by RPCrowe.
May 23, 2016 22:09 |  #13

I was at the Planes of Fame and shot only during the morning event. I shot at ISO 100 using 1/80 second (for the Japanese Zero) at f/20 and 1/100 second (for the P-38) again at f/20.

I shot using a 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II lens on a Canon 7D. I am going to bring a ND filter at my next event with propeller aircraft. Luckily the 100-200 Mk-II uses the same size filters (77mm) as my 17-55mm f/2.8 IS and 12-24mm f/4 Tokina lenses. I really wish that digital cameras would come out with ISO 50 and ISO 25 (I know that the Canon 5D has the capability of ISO 50). Those ISO's would be more useful to me than the exorbitant quad-zillion ISO levels which are selling points for today's cameras.

Of course, when shooting jets, the ISO is no problem because you can go as high as you desire in the shutter speed. I usually shoot my jets above 1/500 second and sometimes around 1/2,000 second...

Here are some of my other Planes of Fame Airshow images: https://rpcrowe.smugmu​g.com/Planes-of-Fame/i-nTWQw3x (external link)

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seaninsa
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May 23, 2016 23:00 as a reply to RPCrowe's post |  #14

So you are understand what I mean about the problem with the low f-stops compared to your shutter speed.




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