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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre People Talk
Thread started 26 Oct 2016 (Wednesday) 10:50
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Need advice on how to make my studio..... better

 
FreeSoul1987
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Joined Jul 2012
Southern Indiana
Post has been edited over 1 year ago by FreeSoul1987.
Oct 27, 2016 07:47 as a reply to post 18168305 |  #16

I'll have to try that, turning the backdrop around. Those windows aren't clean, and I'm not sure but I think they purposefully made to not be clear or see through... I'll have to spend a Saturday working with them.
The ceiling is a dirty white, ummm tiling type? Some areas falling, the ceiling lights are of no use, they are many, many years old and many are busted/not working and I don't care for the florescent.
Husband doesn't want me spending anymore money until I'm actually making money from sessions (hopefully this Christmas season), not sure about that wood you see, but we've got a lot of old, unused skids in the shop that usually end up being tossed.
Also, I need tips on what shouldn't be noticed in the portait. You guys already mentioned harsh shadow and lighing, anything else?


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nathancarter
Cream of the Crop
Joined Dec 2010
Oct 27, 2016 09:15 |  #17

FreeSoul1987 wrote in post #18168013 (external link)
Yes, and my 430EX II flash. Too bright?

Not too bright. The exposure is correct and the subjects are in focus. But - not intending to be mean - if you have paying clients, you must deliver a higher-quality product.

#1, move the subject farther away from the backdrop.
#2, move the camera farther away from the subject.
#3, get the main light higher than the subject's face.
#4, use a longer focal length to get the appropriate framing.

I can't see the EXIF data on these, but I would guess that you're using a relatively short focal length, and ETTL with the Speedlight on the hotshoe on top of the camera.

Simultaneously while cleaning and setting up your studio, your other task is to experiment with your lighting, and make sure you can consistently produce, properly-lit portraits.

Combining continuous (softboxes/windows) and flash is possible, but not always easy. If you use ETTL - which means you let the camera and flash decide how to do it - it will always produce average results. If you want better-than-average, you have to be in control, be smarter than the camera.

See what happens when you use ONLY natural light.
See what happens when you use ONLY the continuous softboxes (at night, probably)
See what happens when you use ONLY the flash (again, at night).

Light is additive. You can add to the window light with the softboxes. You can also add to it with the flash. However, if you let the camera and flash determine your settings, it will probably try to use settings that minimize the window/softbox light, and illuminate the scene with only a powerful flash - and you get results that look like the ones you posted.

You CAN produce passable portraits with only those continuous softboxes (I've done it), but in order to maintain an appropriate shutter speed, you'll need to increase ISO and open aperture. If you have a recent camera, increased ISO is fine, if that's what you have to do to get the right exposure.

Homework: Review different styles of portrait lighting, and see if you can accomplish those with just the windows and continuous softboxes. I think you'll be able to get great results if you put the backdrop in the middle of the room, have the subjects face the windows, put your back to the windows, use the natural light as main light, and MAYBE use the softboxes for fill. Don't bring the Speedlight into the mix yet, it will only complicate things.

If you have more than one Speedlight, and some modifiers and grip gear (stands, etc) then there's a lot you can do with just a few cheap Speedlights - I wrote a long post about this just a couple weeks ago http://photography-on-the.net .../showthread.php?t=1​468659 . But if you're not to spend any more money on gear for now, then you've gotta work with what you got, and a single on-camera Speedlight isn't going to cut it.

Pick up a cheap mannequin head so you can take your time practicing without having to chase the boy or use the timer.


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Intheswamp
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Joined Sep 2013
South Alabama
Oct 27, 2016 10:40 |  #18

nc, good info. I think the OP is using speedlights with the softboxes.


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FreeSoul1987
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Southern Indiana
Oct 27, 2016 11:09 |  #19

Intheswamp wrote in post #18168478 (external link)
nc, good info. I think the OP is using speedlights with the softboxes.

I have one speedlight and yes I used it along with the softboxes in those images.
Not sure if I will be able to today, but hopefully I can get things rearranged up there at least. I won't be able to move it towards the center as the band's equipment is kind of in the way but maybe I can work something out.
Another question, I don't have much skill in "carpentry" or whatever but we've got lots of skids I could use. Any ideas on the furniture I could turn this junk into for portraits?


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nathancarter
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Joined Dec 2010
Oct 27, 2016 11:27 |  #20

FreeSoul1987 wrote in post #18168512 (external link)
I have one speedlight and yes I used it along with the softboxes in those images.

Discussion time: Review and analyze the images you posted, where you combined the Speedlight with the softboxes.

What part of the light was contributed by the Speedlight?
What part of the light was contributed by the softboxes?
If you shot during the day, what part of the light was contributed by the window light?

What would have happened if you left your camera settings exactly the same, but turned off the softboxes? Or, left the softboxes on but turned off the Speedlight?


One of the great things about digital images is that you can experiment as much as you want, and get immediate feedback on the camera's screen.


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FreeSoul1987
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Southern Indiana
Post has been edited over 1 year ago by FreeSoul1987.
Nov 06, 2016 14:14 |  #21

Some images I worked on yesterday, I moved the backdrop to face the north windows and I placed the chair about 3... maybe 4 feet from the drop and I placed my camera and tripod anywhere from 5-10 feet away from it, and the softboxes were about the same distance as the camera but to the left of the camera.
I didn't use my flash, the first 2 images I had the softboxes on, and the very last one... I can't remember but I don't think I had either on.

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*Do It For Yourself, Do It Because They Said It Was Impossible, Do It Because They Said You Were Incapable*
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Gear: Canon T2i, 430EX II flash, Tamron 18-270mm VC PZD II, Canon 18-55mm lens, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II lens

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FreeSoul1987
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Southern Indiana
Nov 06, 2016 14:16 |  #22

This one, is the one that had one soft box I believe.

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*Do It For Yourself, Do It Because They Said It Was Impossible, Do It Because They Said You Were Incapable*
www.FreeSoulPhotograph​y.smugmug.comexternal link
Gear: Canon T2i, 430EX II flash, Tamron 18-270mm VC PZD II, Canon 18-55mm lens, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II lens

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Hinson
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Germantown, Maryland
Nov 28, 2016 16:38 |  #23

I'm late to the thread but it appears that the ambient light is brighter than the lights in the softboxes. I'm assuming the softbox lights are those new curly ones? If this is the case, then you'll need to have them almost on top of the subject. I bought a couple of those and ended up throwing them away. Just not bright enough.

However, those windows and your one flash can really give you some beautiful light for portraits. If you don't have a light meter you will have to take a few test shots to really get it right but if you have your background in the corner and parallel to one of the walls, the other window will give you a great wrap-around light. You may find that sufficient. You can then use your flash (opposite the window and about 6-7 foot high as a main and let the window be your fill. To do this, set the light at about 45 degrees between camera and background and about 5' from subject. Take a few test shots and adjust the flash until you get what you like.


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jp3ters
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Dec 19, 2016 11:49 |  #24

Hello, first of all, I really like the place you have, it has a huge potential indeed! For the wrinkles try rinsing and then hanging them, I was doing the same for nylon materials when I couldn't Iron them out.
Regarding the light, the first shoot was really harsh, I like second better, however, try positioning them differently, from above is one possibility, but all depends on the mood you want to set. I really like to take pics with light from one side, and getting the background away, for example, one from 45 degrees angle from the camera and another from the front only higher.

Maybe you can share, what are the ideas for the mood of photoshoots?




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toadhunter911
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Joined Oct 2006
Southgate, MI
Dec 31, 2016 09:26 |  #25

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=8zf3hlvbFso (external link)

Watch this video...


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Need advice on how to make my studio..... better
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