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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos HDR Creation
Thread started 27 Jan 2012 (Friday) 12:25
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Natural Looking HDR

 
kukulkan
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Joined Sep 2011
Post has been last edited 8 months ago by kukulkan. 2 edits done in total.
Mar 28, 2017 01:49 |  #2356

Redwoods in Northern California


IMAGE: https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3818/33563697371_0b290468b0_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/T8UH​Tr] (external link)5435T- (external link) by alan marquez (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3836/33308988920_29bdb5f39c_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/SKpg​Wq] (external link)5329T-2 (external link) by alan marquez (external link), on Flickr



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danialsturge
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Sheffield, England
Mar 28, 2017 09:12 |  #2357

IMAGE: https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3937/32887393463_8dd23e8e9f_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/S79u​ie] (external link)Winnats Pass (external link) by Danial Sturge (external link), on Flickr

X100T | flickr (external link)

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Stiga
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Nr Perth, Scotland
Apr 17, 2017 08:37 |  #2358

Fine dining :-)

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Martin
I'm not a gear guy but I have a tons of software :-)

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Stiga
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May 02, 2017 09:16 |  #2359

Finished for the day

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Martin
I'm not a gear guy but I have a tons of software :-)

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rooeey
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Sydney Australia
May 04, 2017 15:15 as a reply to post 13802452 |  #2360

Hi...Hope you dont mind me asking but when you bracket for HDR do you use AV or TV..

I all ways thought TV was the default but i note some in here use AV.


1D MK111 , 5D Classic,24-70F2.8, 16-35F2.8, 70-200F2.8 IS a 430EXII 2x 580EXII and a Mac...:cool:
http://s229.photobucke​t.com/albums/ee124/roo​eey/external link

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ejenner
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Denver, CO
Post has been edited 7 months ago by ejenner.
May 04, 2017 23:07 |  #2361

rooeey wrote in post #18346335 (external link)
Hi...Hope you dont mind me asking but when you bracket for HDR do you use AV or TV..

I all ways thought TV was the default but i note some in here use AV.

Always Av or M. I assume Tv changes the aperture? If so, that's a big no-no - I don't want the DOF to change. I guess I could see some situations where it would not matter, but since the subject needs to be basically still, it makes more sense to change the shutter speed.

I could see changing the ISO, but that wouldn't gain much of just using one exposure.


Edward Jenner
5DIII, 7DII, M6, GX1 II,M11-22, Sig15mm FE,16-35 F4,TS-E 17,Sig 18-250 OS Macro,M18-150,24-105,T45 1.8VC,70-200 f4 IS,70-200 2.8 vII,Sig 85 1.4,100L,135L,400DOII.
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UK_MARK
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Portsmouth UK
May 05, 2017 03:33 |  #2362

I always use AV.


My Flickr (external link)
Gear- - Canon 7d mk2 - Sigma 150-600 DG OS HSM C - Sigma 17-50 F2.8 EX DG OS HSM - Sigma 10-20 F3.5 EX DC HSM - SIGMA 70 F2.8 EX DG Macro - Canon EF-S 24mm F2.8 STM - Sigma TC 1401- Manfrotto Tripod and Monopod - Sigma 580 EX II - Yongnuo YN14EX Macro Flash - Lee Filter system - Lowepro Trekker AW II.

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roseyposey
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Joined Oct 2011
Hastings, New Zealand
May 05, 2017 03:44 |  #2363

rooeey wrote in post #18346335 (external link)
Hi...Hope you dont mind me asking but when you bracket for HDR do you use AV or TV..

I all ways thought TV was the default but i note some in here use AV.

While I haven't done much bracketing lately - always AV, as usually landscape and need control of aperture for that. If you put on TV it will skew exposure??? Could use Manual of course, but I am not smart enough for that


Canon EOS 70D: added a Canon M5: A mixture of Canon, Sigma, Tamron and Tokina prime and zoom lenses, a Samyang fisheye, and just for fun a couple of Helios 44-2 58m..
Rose
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/rose_mcgillicud​dy/ (external link)
"Dance among the moonbeams, feel the magic in the air."

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kirkt
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Joined Feb 2008
Philadelphia, PA USA
Post has been last edited 7 months ago by kirkt. 3 edits done in total.
May 05, 2017 12:13 |  #2364

When you shoot an exposure bracket, you should fix as many variables as you can so the only variation between exposures is the amount of light hitting the sensor. This is usually achieved by fixing aperture, ISO, focal plane (manual focus and lock it there so AF does not change focus over the bracket) and WB (pick a preset and lock it, daylight for example, you can always adjust WB in post on the 32bit data) and adjusting shutter speed to change the exposure. Whether you do this in Av or M, you just need to know how your camera adjusts exposure when in a particular mode.

I use M (manual) mode and simply roll the shutter speed control - I have my camera set up for 1/3 EV increments (1/3 EV change in shutter speed per click of the shutter control dial). You can spot meter various areas of your scene to get the min and max shutter speed for your exposure range and then start at one end of the range, take the shot, click-click-click (1 EV) on the shutter speed dial, shoot the next shot, etc. No need to look at the settings.

Now, with a 5DIV, the AEB can go up to 7 shots, so this is almost not even an issue anymore. Set the camera on a tripod with self timer and let the camera do all of the work.

A 2 sec self-timer or remote shutter release is helpful if your shutter speeds are long - even when shooting on a tripod, this will help manage camera shake by not having to physically touch the shutter release at the time the shutter opens. Sometimes mirror lock up is useful too, if your mirror slap causes noticable vibration evident on the longer exposures.

kirk


Kirk
---
images: http://kirkt.smugmug.c​omexternal link

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Stiga
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Nr Perth, Scotland
May 05, 2017 13:43 |  #2365

In theory it should always be Av. But I can't tell the difference between Tv and Av when I look at creating a final image for the web.


Martin
I'm not a gear guy but I have a tons of software :-)

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iowajim
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Joined Mar 2011
North Central Iowa
May 05, 2017 22:40 as a reply to Stiga's post |  #2366

It would be best to set the aperture to keep the dof the same between shots. This will help the software stitch the shots together.


Jim, in Iowa
80D / T2i / Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 / Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 / Canon 24-105 f4 / Tamron SP VC 70-200mm f2.8 / Sigma 150-600mm C

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Tareq
"I am very lazy, a normal consumer"
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Gallery: 2 photos
Joined Jan 2006
Ajman - UAE
May 07, 2017 08:14 |  #2367

I use only M, Av if there is no M on camera :-D  :p


Galleries:
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Monkey ­ moss
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910 posts
Joined Apr 2012
Bristol, England
May 10, 2017 17:50 |  #2368

Thank you for this sir. Your comment made me check how many AEB shots the 5D3 could do. Turns out it can do 7 as well. I had assumed it could only 3. I will make good use of this so your comment is much appreciated :-D

kirkt wrote in post #18347113 (external link)
When you shoot an exposure bracket, you should fix as many variables as you can so the only variation between exposures is the amount of light hitting the sensor. This is usually achieved by fixing aperture, ISO, focal plane (manual focus and lock it there so AF does not change focus over the bracket) and WB (pick a preset and lock it, daylight for example, you can always adjust WB in post on the 32bit data) and adjusting shutter speed to change the exposure. Whether you do this in Av or M, you just need to know how your camera adjusts exposure when in a particular mode.

I use M (manual) mode and simply roll the shutter speed control - I have my camera set up for 1/3 EV increments (1/3 EV change in shutter speed per click of the shutter control dial). You can spot meter various areas of your scene to get the min and max shutter speed for your exposure range and then start at one end of the range, take the shot, click-click-click (1 EV) on the shutter speed dial, shoot the next shot, etc. No need to look at the settings.

Now, with a 5DIV, the AEB can go up to 7 shots, so this is almost not even an issue anymore. Set the camera on a tripod with self timer and let the camera do all of the work.

A 2 sec self-timer or remote shutter release is helpful if your shutter speeds are long - even when shooting on a tripod, this will help manage camera shake by not having to physically touch the shutter release at the time the shutter opens. Sometimes mirror lock up is useful too, if your mirror slap causes noticable vibration evident on the longer exposures.

kirk


Jon :cool::oops::D:cry::confused::(:lol:
Gear: 5Diii, 16-35 f4, 24-70 f2.8 ii, 70-300L, 35mm f2 IS, 85mm 1.8
My Flickr (external link)

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Stiga
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Nr Perth, Scotland
May 29, 2017 08:52 |  #2369

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Bracketed set of 3 processed with Photomatix 6 Pro Beta 5

Martin
I'm not a gear guy but I have a tons of software :-)

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Stiga
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Nr Perth, Scotland
May 30, 2017 09:08 |  #2370

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Making Natural HDR with Photomatix 6 (Beta 5) is much easier than it was with version 5.1

Martin
I'm not a gear guy but I have a tons of software :-)

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