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FORUMS General Gear Talk DIY & Customizing
Thread started 25 Apr 2017 (Tuesday) 11:36
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Macro Table

 
NoLight
Senior Member
Joined Apr 2005
Texas
May 04, 2017 19:50 |  #16

Awesome keep us updated!!




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Temma
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Joined Sep 2009
Rocky River, Ohio
May 05, 2017 10:56 |  #17

NoLight wrote in post #18346543 (external link)
Awesome keep us updated!!

I've got four boxes of old magazines, plus several boxes of odd junk (old computer cards, MBs, etc.) to take out, depending upon space in the dumpster.

If I can take the junk out, I can get the cabinets and top set up and the equipment moved over today.

I really want to get this interim step done because I have some things I want to try out lens and aperture-wise.

There will be (low quality cell phone) pictures when I'm done.

I've been doing some reading on 3/4" x 2' x 4' MDF as a table top. Since I probably won't need to actually put any screws into it and it won't have anything on it heavier than a couple of pounds, its weight and density seem like a good bet. It's also substantially cheaper than good quality plywood.

I was thinking about using conduit mounting channel to mount the lamp sockets I plan to get, but SuperClamp type clamps look like they'd do as well or better.




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Temma
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Joined Sep 2009
Rocky River, Ohio
May 05, 2017 11:48 |  #18

I just got the filing cabinets and top moved.

I'm thinking about putting some boxes of lead bullets in the bottoms of the filing cabinets to make them heavier. The carpeting gives them a little more give than I like.

I've got some more cleanup to do, as well as adding the drawer liner between the top and the cabinets.. I'll probably get the lights and camera rig moved over this afternoon.




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Temma
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Joined Sep 2009
Rocky River, Ohio
Post has been edited 5 months ago by Temma.
May 05, 2017 15:22 |  #19

Lights and mount, minus the camera.

When I'm working again and can afford it, there's going to be a couple of manual flashes (probably Flashpoint) on ballheads shooting down onto the stage.

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Temma
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Joined Sep 2009
Rocky River, Ohio
May 05, 2017 19:02 |  #20

My first image from the new table.

A gnat that managed to get into my freezer and freeze to death.

Taken with a Minolta 50mm manual reversed onto a full set of manual extension tubes. ISO 400.

A stack of four, processed with CombineZP.

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NoLight
Senior Member
Joined Apr 2005
Texas
May 10, 2017 05:27 |  #21

Cool setup.




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Temma
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Joined Sep 2009
Rocky River, Ohio
May 10, 2017 11:13 |  #22

NoLight wrote in post #18350729 (external link)
Cool setup.

Thanks.

It's not ideal, but it'll do until I can build something more permanent.

I priced 3/4", 2' x 4' MDF sheets and alternatively black iron or structural pipe legs for a purpose built photography table.

All it'll take now is money...




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NoLight
Senior Member
Joined Apr 2005
Texas
May 10, 2017 15:07 |  #23

Temma wrote in post #18351012 (external link)
All it'll take now is money...

I hear ya!!




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JasonC007
Senior Member
Joined Oct 2012
Derbyshire
Jun 12, 2017 05:48 |  #24

Something like this might be worth considering. I am currently working on my new macro rig which is mainly designed for stacking but can be used for normal macro too.

I used to have this rig just on a board which worked just fine but space and storage is also an issue in my house! so I decided to make something more portable.

This is still work in progress but should have it finished by next week.

The board I am using is 18mm thick fibreboard which pretty sturdy. I then have a steel sheet on top of that attached with Gorilla glue, the reason for this is because most of the accessories I use are magnetised, this makes it super easy to move things about as required, such as the lighting. The exception to this is the stackshot which is bolted down.

To finish the project I need to finish my subject positioning system by adding a type of universal stage, whcih will sit on top of the XYZR table you can currently see. I also need to add a background holder which I've finished but just need ot 3D print it. I then just need to design a stabiliser for my MP-E65 lens when at high magnifications so I can use it more reliably with constant lighting, currently only using a flash will give me the sharpest results due to shutter vibration, which when stacking at 5x needs to be steady as a rock unless you use flash.

Anyway, its food for thought.

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Canon 80D | 24-105L | 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro | MP-E65 f/2.8 1-5x Macro | Tamron 150-600 | Sigma 10mm Fisheye | EF 24mm f/2.8 Pancake | MT-24EX | 600EX-RT |
Flickr (external link) | Google+ (external link)

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Temma
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Senior Member
Joined Sep 2009
Rocky River, Ohio
Jun 12, 2017 06:08 |  #25

I was doing some work last night with my Minolta 50mm manual reversed onto manual extension tubes. Every image was more or less out of focus.
I think there were a combination of issues:


  1. I was stopped all or most of the way down, making for very dark images, which I had to preview by bumping up the ISO then reverting.
  2. I was shooting at the edge of a small razor knife, which was a very challenging target.
  3. I could see movement when composing.
  4. I was using continuous light at 100 ISO which forced me to use very slow shutter speeds.
  5. The manual lens precluded the use of DSLR Controller for focus stacking.

I don't have the money to build my permanent table, so there's probably going to be a certain amount of movement. Since I don't have a Stackshot or Wemacro, I can't do automated focus stacking with the manual lens. Manual stacking would be painful with my cheap Chinese macro rail. I may switch to flash today just so I can use a decent shutter speed to minimize motion.

I'd like to get a plain aluminum optical bread board for a mount, but most of those on Amazon seem to be out of stock, and have been for months (at least).



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JasonC007
Senior Member
Joined Oct 2012
Derbyshire
Jun 12, 2017 06:48 as a reply to Temma's post |  #26

You can get away with using a manual rail but you'll just have to wait longer between shots to give the setup a longer time to stop vibrating. If that doesn't work then yes, you will need to use a flash, which there is nothing wrong with doing but it just makes it more difficult to compose the shots, which is why I use both. Quality wise, as long as your rail is smooth, you will get shots just as good with that than youwould with an automated rail, well I did anyway.

This was shot with a manual Velbon rail and the setup was just my camera on a tripod and a cheap little handy tool to hold the subject on a pin:

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Canon 80D | 24-105L | 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro | MP-E65 f/2.8 1-5x Macro | Tamron 150-600 | Sigma 10mm Fisheye | EF 24mm f/2.8 Pancake | MT-24EX | 600EX-RT |
Flickr (external link) | Google+ (external link)

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Temma
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Joined Sep 2009
Rocky River, Ohio
Jun 12, 2017 08:19 as a reply to JasonC007's post |  #27

The problem that I have with using a manual rail for focus stacking is achieving uniform movment between exposures.

What the manual rails need is graduated "clicks" like the windage and elevation knobs on an M1 Garand have.




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JasonC007
Senior Member
Joined Oct 2012
Derbyshire
Jun 12, 2017 08:37 |  #28

Temma wrote in post #18376580 (external link)
The problem that I have with using a manual rail for focus stacking is achieving uniform movment between exposures.

What the manual rails need is graduated "clicks" like the windage and elevation knobs on an M1 Garand have.

I got used to turning the knob exactly 1/4 turn at a time, to make this easier you can mark some points on the knob and one on the body so you know how far you've turned it.


Canon 80D | 24-105L | 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro | MP-E65 f/2.8 1-5x Macro | Tamron 150-600 | Sigma 10mm Fisheye | EF 24mm f/2.8 Pancake | MT-24EX | 600EX-RT |
Flickr (external link) | Google+ (external link)

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Temma
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Joined Sep 2009
Rocky River, Ohio
Post has been edited 4 months ago by Temma.
Jun 12, 2017 08:46 |  #29

JasonC007 wrote in post #18376596 (external link)
I got used to turning the knob exactly 1/4 turn at a time, to make this easier you can mark some points on the knob and one on the body so you know how far you've turned it.

I had considered that, but was uncertain about the increments to use.

What I may do is move the rail to zero, mark the knob at 12:00, and then work from that. Experience tells me that movements ought to be 1/8 a turn of less. It would be nice if I could create some sort of graduated dial affixed to the rail. After a knock down, drag out fight with Hyper-V and Corel X3, I'm once again able to draw and print things. Perhaps I could print a dial on card stock and laminate it.




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JasonC007
Senior Member
Joined Oct 2012
Derbyshire
Jul 04, 2017 07:55 |  #30

Temma wrote in post #18376604 (external link)
I had considered that, but was uncertain about the increments to use.

What I may do is move the rail to zero, mark the knob at 12:00, and then work from that. Experience tells me that movements ought to be 1/8 a turn of less. It would be nice if I could create some sort of graduated dial affixed to the rail. After a knock down, drag out fight with Hyper-V and Corel X3, I'm once again able to draw and print things. Perhaps I could print a dial on card stock and laminate it.

Yes a dial printed would work well. The amount you turn will depend on your rail and obviously the magnification as the dof will change. Even on my electronic rail I've never calculated the increments, mainly because I've never had time to calculate it all but also, because I've done a few now I sort of know how many steps are needed for a certain distance.


Canon 80D | 24-105L | 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro | MP-E65 f/2.8 1-5x Macro | Tamron 150-600 | Sigma 10mm Fisheye | EF 24mm f/2.8 Pancake | MT-24EX | 600EX-RT |
Flickr (external link) | Google+ (external link)

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Macro Table
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