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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos HDR Creation 
Thread started 27 Jan 2012 (Friday) 12:25
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Natural Looking HDR

 
kukulkan
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Post edited over 1 year ago by kukulkan. (2 edits in all)
     
Mar 28, 2017 01:49 |  #2356

Redwoods in Northern California


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IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/T8UH​Tr  (external link) 5435T- (external link) by alan marquez (external link), on Flickr

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danialsturge
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Mar 28, 2017 09:12 |  #2357

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IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/S79u​ie  (external link) Winnats Pass (external link) by Danial Sturge (external link), on Flickr

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Stiga
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Apr 17, 2017 08:37 |  #2358

Fine dining :-)


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Martin
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Stiga
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May 02, 2017 09:16 |  #2359

Finished for the day


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Martin
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rooeey
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May 04, 2017 15:15 as a reply to  @ post 13802452 |  #2360

Hi...Hope you dont mind me asking but when you bracket for HDR do you use AV or TV..

I all ways thought TV was the default but i note some in here use AV.


1D MK111 , 5D Classic,24-70F2.8, 16-35F2.8, 70-200F2.8 IS a 430EXII 2x 580EXII and a Mac...:cool:
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ejenner
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Post edited 11 months ago by ejenner.
     
May 04, 2017 23:07 |  #2361

rooeey wrote in post #18346335 (external link)
Hi...Hope you dont mind me asking but when you bracket for HDR do you use AV or TV..

I all ways thought TV was the default but i note some in here use AV.

Always Av or M. I assume Tv changes the aperture? If so, that's a big no-no - I don't want the DOF to change. I guess I could see some situations where it would not matter, but since the subject needs to be basically still, it makes more sense to change the shutter speed.

I could see changing the ISO, but that wouldn't gain much of just using one exposure.


Edward Jenner
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UK_MARK
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May 05, 2017 03:33 |  #2362

I always use AV.


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roseyposey
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May 05, 2017 03:44 |  #2363

rooeey wrote in post #18346335 (external link)
Hi...Hope you dont mind me asking but when you bracket for HDR do you use AV or TV..

I all ways thought TV was the default but i note some in here use AV.

While I haven't done much bracketing lately - always AV, as usually landscape and need control of aperture for that. If you put on TV it will skew exposure??? Could use Manual of course, but I am not smart enough for that


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kirkt
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Post edited 11 months ago by kirkt. (3 edits in all)
     
May 05, 2017 12:13 |  #2364

When you shoot an exposure bracket, you should fix as many variables as you can so the only variation between exposures is the amount of light hitting the sensor. This is usually achieved by fixing aperture, ISO, focal plane (manual focus and lock it there so AF does not change focus over the bracket) and WB (pick a preset and lock it, daylight for example, you can always adjust WB in post on the 32bit data) and adjusting shutter speed to change the exposure. Whether you do this in Av or M, you just need to know how your camera adjusts exposure when in a particular mode.

I use M (manual) mode and simply roll the shutter speed control - I have my camera set up for 1/3 EV increments (1/3 EV change in shutter speed per click of the shutter control dial). You can spot meter various areas of your scene to get the min and max shutter speed for your exposure range and then start at one end of the range, take the shot, click-click-click (1 EV) on the shutter speed dial, shoot the next shot, etc. No need to look at the settings.

Now, with a 5DIV, the AEB can go up to 7 shots, so this is almost not even an issue anymore. Set the camera on a tripod with self timer and let the camera do all of the work.

A 2 sec self-timer or remote shutter release is helpful if your shutter speeds are long - even when shooting on a tripod, this will help manage camera shake by not having to physically touch the shutter release at the time the shutter opens. Sometimes mirror lock up is useful too, if your mirror slap causes noticable vibration evident on the longer exposures.

kirk


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Stiga
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May 05, 2017 13:43 |  #2365

In theory it should always be Av. But I can't tell the difference between Tv and Av when I look at creating a final image for the web.


Martin
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iowajim
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May 05, 2017 22:40 as a reply to  @ Stiga's post |  #2366

It would be best to set the aperture to keep the dof the same between shots. This will help the software stitch the shots together.


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Tareq
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May 07, 2017 08:14 |  #2367

I use only M, Av if there is no M on camera :-D  :p


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Monkey ­ moss
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May 10, 2017 17:50 |  #2368

Thank you for this sir. Your comment made me check how many AEB shots the 5D3 could do. Turns out it can do 7 as well. I had assumed it could only 3. I will make good use of this so your comment is much appreciated :-D

kirkt wrote in post #18347113 (external link)
When you shoot an exposure bracket, you should fix as many variables as you can so the only variation between exposures is the amount of light hitting the sensor. This is usually achieved by fixing aperture, ISO, focal plane (manual focus and lock it there so AF does not change focus over the bracket) and WB (pick a preset and lock it, daylight for example, you can always adjust WB in post on the 32bit data) and adjusting shutter speed to change the exposure. Whether you do this in Av or M, you just need to know how your camera adjusts exposure when in a particular mode.

I use M (manual) mode and simply roll the shutter speed control - I have my camera set up for 1/3 EV increments (1/3 EV change in shutter speed per click of the shutter control dial). You can spot meter various areas of your scene to get the min and max shutter speed for your exposure range and then start at one end of the range, take the shot, click-click-click (1 EV) on the shutter speed dial, shoot the next shot, etc. No need to look at the settings.

Now, with a 5DIV, the AEB can go up to 7 shots, so this is almost not even an issue anymore. Set the camera on a tripod with self timer and let the camera do all of the work.

A 2 sec self-timer or remote shutter release is helpful if your shutter speeds are long - even when shooting on a tripod, this will help manage camera shake by not having to physically touch the shutter release at the time the shutter opens. Sometimes mirror lock up is useful too, if your mirror slap causes noticable vibration evident on the longer exposures.

kirk


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Stiga
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May 29, 2017 08:52 |  #2369


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Bracketed set of 3 processed with Photomatix 6 Pro Beta 5

Martin
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Stiga
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May 30, 2017 09:08 |  #2370


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Making Natural HDR with Photomatix 6 (Beta 5) is much easier than it was with version 5.1

Martin
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Natural Looking HDR
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