kat.hayes wrote in post #18408631
Using a 5DM3 and a EF 24-70mm 1:2.8 L and a 600EX-RT:
I'm obviously very new to this and I'm going to take photos of kids running around at an indoor play place. The lighting will change, as well as how fast the kids playing will be. I plan to put the flash into auto/TTL because I am not good enough to go manual with it yet. I am also taping some diffused soft box material over the flash, I plan to use this instead of worrying about bouncing light to walls/ceiling.
If the wall and ceiling are white or off-white, I would bounce the light. This gives you a large, soft, light source that is well off the lens axis. Such lighting fixes most of the problems associated with flash.
Otherwise, taping crap or purchasing tupperware bits to put on flash before shooting direct is a waste of time. It won't make the light source appreciably larger, which means it won't make the light source appreciably softer. All it does is cut your range and run the batteries down faster.
As a starting point for settings, I'm thinking of:
- 1/40 - 1/60th
- iso 400-1200
If the space is large, I would try to set my ambient exposure so that it is about 1 stop to 2/3 stop underexposed. Ditto this advice if you cannot bounce. That way the background will not disappear as a dark cave. If the space is small, just set the shutter to 1/250, ISO to 400 and nuke it - let the flash light everything (bounced).
1. Do I need to worry about shutter speed at all to capture motion of the kids running since I am using the Flash?
Not if the ambient exposure setting is underexposed enough that the flash is the main light on the subjects. This technique (which I also described above) is know as dragging the shutter, and it works very well.
2. If I am getting too much color casts in my photos from the lighting, should I just speed the shutter to around 1/250?
Yeah, or slap a $0.50 color gel on your flash to match the lights. If the space is small enough to light it all (kids and background) with the flash, this is the easiest route. But in larger spaces the background will turn black, which is why we all buy and use color gels on our flashes.
3. Is there any advantage for my situation of attaching a flash bracket to the camera so the flash sits off to the side instead of on top?
Not much, brackets will help cut red-eye when shooting direct flash and when the subject is looking at you.
4. If my photos are too dark, what should be my first step, slowing the shutter, or increasing ISO?
Set the flash to 1:1 power (manual) and see if they are still dark, if yes then you don't have enough power and you will need a larger aperture or higher ISO. But this is not likely unless the ceiling is a mile high.
More likely you have having ETTL metering fails. I tend to use CWA metering for ETTL.