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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Astronomy & Celestial
Thread started 13 Aug 2017 (Sunday) 21:17
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Focus for the Eclipse

 
napolar
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Aug 18, 2017 17:03 |  #16

Thanks for the great advise - Getting better every time I try it out!

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MizzouMan_2000
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Aug 18, 2017 22:59 |  #17

S.R.M. wrote in post #18427062 (external link)
Try manual focusing using liveview. You should be able to get some good shots with that lens and those settings. I used the same lens on a 50D for the shots below:


QUOTED IMAGE
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rDjw​8A] (external link)Totality 2012 repro 2 (external link) by Stephen Mudge (external link), on Flickr


Hope the weather turns out well for you!

How 'processed' is that totality photo? Did you bump the exposure much in post? I'll be in the path of totality. I've got an idea of what settings I need leading up to totality, but not so sure about during.

Thanks!


Canon EOS 5D Mark III, EOS 7D | Canon EF 300mm f/4L USM, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM, EF 16-35mm f/2.8L USM, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | Canon Speedlite 580EX

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Nighthound
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Post has been last edited 3 months ago by Nighthound. 2 edits done in total.
Aug 19, 2017 15:16 |  #18

Davenn wrote in post #18427138 (external link)
wise advice from Stephen and I agree completely
Dont even attempt to use auto-focus


BTW, Stephen I was just a little further north of you for that eclipse ... north side of Palm Cove


S.R.M. wrote in post #18427062 (external link)
Try manual focusing using liveview. You should be able to get some good shots with that lens and those settings. I used the same lens on a 50D for the shots below:

QUOTED IMAGE
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/dtsb​6V] (external link)7 minutes before totality (external link) by Stephen Mudge (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rDjw​8A] (external link)Totality 2012 repro 2 (external link) by Stephen Mudge (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rWqH​pN] (external link)Prominences and corona (external link) by Stephen Mudge (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/dtxH​GL] (external link)Third contact diamond ring #2 (external link) by Stephen Mudge (external link), on Flickr

Hope the weather turns out well for you!


Celestron wrote in post #18427419 (external link)
I agree with manual focusing will probably be your best focus . However if you have the filter on and camera is on a tripod you can try using auto-focus and focus on the suns edge and see if the auto-focus points will focus and then switch back to manual focus before tripping the shutter with a remote . But for this to work you must adjust focus points to use center focus point only so you can see where the red focus point is located to move it to edge of sun . One other way is if your on location long before the eclipse starts you could try finding the moon without the filter and focus on the moon long before it gets close to the sun then switch over to manual focus and fine tune it and then don't touch it until the eclipse starts . Trial and error will be your only chance to focus if you wait until the eclipse starts and more likely you'll miss a lot of great shot chances before it's over with .

I just did some extensive testing with my 500L and 7D Mark II. I will be on my knees focusing with LIVE view for the eclipse since the sun will be so high in the sky here on the east coast. I tested LIVE view using manual focus and also auto focus (one box/focus). I found that most of my auto focus shots were very well focused but I missed a lot going with manual focus. I'm sure my 60 year old eyes played a role as well as being on my knees looking up at the LED.

I realize that as the eclipse progresses and the sun becomes a thin crescent that it may be tougher to get good results with auto focus LIVE view but I think I can get what I need. My question is when It's time for the diamond ring (filter off) will auto focus struggle with just the single blast of light to attain focus. This is the most stressful phase of the eclipse for me since the window of opportunity is so brief. I plan to pull the filter off one minute prior to totality but and get the best focus possible prior to the diamond and click away. Originally I had planned to use the camera delay timer to avoid shake for the early phases but for the diamond ring it seems like a two second delay would be a problem, I might go with a cable release instead using ONE SHOT and just keep clicking as the ring turns to totality.

If any of you eclipse savvy shooters could give me some tips I'd really appreciate it. Passing clouds are in the forecast. I hope after waiting all these years that I at least get a peak at and around totality. Thanks in advance.


Steve
Canon Gear: 1D Mark IV | 1D Mark II | 5D | 20D | 500L IS (f/4) | 100-400L
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Celestron
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Post has been edited 3 months ago by Celestron.
Aug 19, 2017 16:25 |  #19

Steve how do you have your focus points set ? I keep mine on center focus point only cause the edge of the sun is what I focus on . Hard call for the Diamond Ring effect but that movement will happen fast so I also have camera set for multiple shots in one burst . But not sure you can do that with a remote . If you use auto focus and no remote with filter off you'll need to shoot a two or three burst of the DR as it starts to appear then move your camera off the sun quickly and replace filter if you plan to continue to image more . I posted a video that shows the two minute totality and when the diamond ring effect appears it goes very quick . Two or three burst of multiple shots should capture several good images of the DR effect . Only problem is once focused with a half pressed shutter button to lock in focus keeping the focus point on the edge of the sun cause if it moves and you relefocus it could cause the focus to go way off and by the time you get it back the effect could be over . So with all said you may want to consider manual focused and locked with single frame shooting .
https://www.space.com ...nt-of-totality-video.html (external link)




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Littlefield
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Post has been last edited 3 months ago by Littlefield. 4 edits done in total.
Aug 19, 2017 18:22 |  #20

Celestron wrote in post #18431968 (external link)
Steve how do you have your focus points set ? I keep mine on center focus point only cause the edge of the sun is what I focus on . Hard call for the Diamond Ring effect but that movement will happen fast so I also have camera set for multiple shots in one burst . But not sure you can do that with a remote . If you use auto focus and no remote with filter off you'll need to shoot a two or three burst of the DR as it starts to appear then move your camera off the sun quickly and replace filter if you plan to continue to image more . I posted a video that shows the two minute totality and when the diamond ring effect appears it goes very quick . Two or three burst of multiple shots should capture several good images of the DR effect . Only problem is once focused with a half pressed shutter button to lock in focus keeping the focus point on the edge of the sun cause if it moves and you relefocus it could cause the focus to go way off and by the time you get it back the effect could be over . So with all said you may want to consider manual focused and locked with single frame shooting .
https://www.space.com ...nt-of-totality-video.html (external link)


With my old 7D with Canon 400 5.6 L I will use C1 been manually focused and fire off bracket two stop 250 1000 4000. Guess that will be good exposure for BB, diamond and will work ?
Then switch to Magic Lantern with 7 bracket two steps at 1/125 to get wide range. Both ISO 200 at 5.6 since 400 is so sharp. Some gotta be good I figure !

Steve, good luck and hope for clear skies down in lower part SC. I am not on knees but laying under my Fesiol tripod using live view here in SC Upstate. LOL
Don




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Nighthound
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Post has been edited 3 months ago by Nighthound.
Aug 19, 2017 20:42 |  #21

Celestron wrote in post #18431968 (external link)
Steve how do you have your focus points set ? I keep mine on center focus point only cause the edge of the sun is what I focus on . Hard call for the Diamond Ring effect but that movement will happen fast so I also have camera set for multiple shots in one burst . But not sure you can do that with a remote . If you use auto focus and no remote with filter off you'll need to shoot a two or three burst of the DR as it starts to appear then move your camera off the sun quickly and replace filter if you plan to continue to image more . I posted a video that shows the two minute totality and when the diamond ring effect appears it goes very quick . Two or three burst of multiple shots should capture several good images of the DR effect . Only problem is once focused with a half pressed shutter button to lock in focus keeping the focus point on the edge of the sun cause if it moves and you relefocus it could cause the focus to go way off and by the time you get it back the effect could be over . So with all said you may want to consider manual focused and locked with single frame shooting .
https://www.space.com ...nt-of-totality-video.html (external link)

Thanks Ron. I use center/single point focus. I might just switch from one shot to high speed burst as I remove the filter (one minute prior to totality). I use back button focus so no risk of focus jump when pressing the shutter button. I'll have to pull the remote cable as well and try to attain a good focus on the crescent before removing the cable and filter. Then it's just keep bursting until totality. Hopefully I'll get the DR.


Steve
Canon Gear: 1D Mark IV | 1D Mark II | 5D | 20D | 500L IS (f/4) | 100-400L
My Astro Gallery http://s3.photobucket.​com ...7/Nighthd/POTN%20Ga​llery/external link

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Nighthound
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Post has been edited 3 months ago by Nighthound.
Aug 19, 2017 20:48 |  #22

Littlefield wrote in post #18432049 (external link)
With my old 7D with Canon 400 5.6 L I will use C1 been manually focused and fire off bracket two stop 250 1000 4000. Guess that will be good exposure for BB, diamond and will work ?
Then switch to Magic Lantern with 7 bracket two steps at 1/125 to get wide range. Both ISO 200 at 5.6 since 400 is so sharp. Some gotta be good I figure !

Steve, good luck and hope for clear skies down in lower part SC. I am not on knees but laying under my Fesiol tripod using live view here in SC Upstate. LOL
Don

Hey Don, thanks. I'd prefer to manual focus myself but I wasn't happy with my results today. My vision is poor when looking at things so close like the LED. I have to squint like crazy, reading glasses can help some but when I sweating from the 108 heat index glasses can be a mess. Bad enough with my eyes burning from the sweat. Right now it looks like I should be up there with you, the forecast on the coast is going downhill. Good luck, hope the skies treat you well.


Steve
Canon Gear: 1D Mark IV | 1D Mark II | 5D | 20D | 500L IS (f/4) | 100-400L
My Astro Gallery http://s3.photobucket.​com ...7/Nighthd/POTN%20Ga​llery/external link

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Celestron
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Aug 19, 2017 22:37 as a reply to Littlefield's post |  #23

Just remember when at totality 100% it will be darker and if your exposure is too fast you'll not capture enough data for a good image . It will look grainy . I feel like at totality imaging will be similar to trying to capture a new moon which requires longer exposures maybe as slow as 1/8 sec. but keeping ISO at least at 800spd . For partials then beef up the exposure spd and ISO settings . Even with a filter the sun will be bright and hopefully you are using a filter .




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Inspeqtor
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Aug 19, 2017 23:34 |  #24

Celestron wrote in post #18432168 (external link)
Just remember when at totality 100% it will be darker and if your exposure is too fast you'll not capture enough data for a good image . It will look grainy . I feel like at totality imaging will be similar to trying to capture a new moon which requires longer exposures maybe as slow as 1/8 sec. but keeping ISO at least at 800spd . For partials then beef up the exposure spd and ISO settings . Even with a filter the sun will be bright and hopefully you are using a filter .

I am in an area that will be at 88% coverage. I am planning on doing a time lapse, so I will not be able to make any change in settings during my many exposures. When the eclipse is at the 88% point, will that be bright enough to see any detail?

The practice shots I have been doing it ISO 100 1/250 f/8 at 700MM - I am at f/8 because I will have my 1.4TC attached to my 150-500 Siggy lens - If I have clear skies today I am going to try going to 1/180 to see what that looks like.

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Charles
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Littlefield
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Post has been last edited 3 months ago by Littlefield. 6 edits done in total.
Aug 19, 2017 23:41 as a reply to Celestron's post |  #25

Thanks, Ron. Yea, could up ISO easy for ML. I have a Mr.Starguy white light filter but will focus with live view.
It is really dark will use 100 ISO probably for partials. Hope you have clear skies.
Don

http://photography-on-the.net ...showthread.php?p=18​423150




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Inspeqtor
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Aug 19, 2017 23:47 |  #26

Littlefield wrote in post #18432188 (external link)
Thanks, Ron. Yea, could up ISO easy for ML. I have a Mr.Starguy white light filter but will focus with live view.
It is really dark will use 100 ISO for earlier partials.
Don

http://photography-on-the.net ...showthread.php?p=18​423150

I just looked at your photo above, it looks MUCH better than mine, looks like I need to do something different quick like increase my ISO to 800?

EDIT: My filter is the Thousand Oaks Filter


Charles
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Tokina AT-X Pro DX 11-20 f/2.8 * Sigma 17-70 f2.8-4 DC Macro OS * Sigma 150-500 f5-6.3 APO DG OS HSM
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Littlefield
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Post has been edited 3 months ago by Littlefield.
Aug 19, 2017 23:53 as a reply to Inspeqtor's post |  #27

Thanks, could be my filter as it is Baader AstroSolar. It is really white showing with original and I made it that color in post. 100 ISO on it.
Don




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Inspeqtor
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Aug 20, 2017 02:09 |  #28

Littlefield wrote in post #18432192 (external link)
Thanks, could be my filter as it is Baader AstroSolar. It is really white showing with original and I made it that color in post. 100 ISO on it.
Don


Aahhhh OK, I am not good doing PP, but if I up my ISO a tad bit maybe I can get a bit brighter color.

That is IF we have clear skies.... in the beginning they said yep clear skies.... now they are saying maybe rain showers :cry:


Charles
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Tokina AT-X Pro DX 11-20 f/2.8 * Sigma 17-70 f2.8-4 DC Macro OS * Sigma 150-500 f5-6.3 APO DG OS HSM
Canon 18-55 IS Kit Lens * Canon 70-300 IS USM * Canon 50mm f1.8 * Canon 580EX II *** iOptron 3302W Star Tracker

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Inspeqtor
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Aug 20, 2017 02:21 |  #29

Inspeqtor wrote in post #18432223 (external link)
Aahhhh OK, I am not good doing PP, but if I up my ISO a tad bit maybe I can get a bit brighter color.

That is IF we have clear skies.... in the beginning they said yep clear skies.... now they are saying maybe rain showers :cry:

If I make any change I think it will just be changing from 1/250 to 1/180... that should not be a huge change as I don't have much time to try ahead of Monday.

As a friend said, if it ain't broke don't fix it.


Charles
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Tokina AT-X Pro DX 11-20 f/2.8 * Sigma 17-70 f2.8-4 DC Macro OS * Sigma 150-500 f5-6.3 APO DG OS HSM
Canon 18-55 IS Kit Lens * Canon 70-300 IS USM * Canon 50mm f1.8 * Canon 580EX II *** iOptron 3302W Star Tracker

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Celestron
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Aug 20, 2017 06:53 |  #30

Check out some of my solar images on my Flickr page . Some are with my camera on a tripod using a 135-400mm len and some are with my scope . Check out the settings and that will give you a good idea about settings for your cameras .

https://www.flickr.com .../albums/72157629985​457684 (external link)




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