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FORUMS Other Digital Cameras Fuji Digital Cameras
Thread started 05 Aug 2017 (Saturday) 16:43
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Godox and Fuji

 
EverydayGetaway
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Aug 25, 2017 00:37 |  #46

Osa713 wrote in post #18436403 (external link)
You can turn the LED AF light off. ;-)a I did when I have a flash mounted on top.

I turn mine off and leave it off with every Fuji I buy when I first unbox it :lol:


Fuji X-Pro2 // Fuji X-T1 // Fuji X-100T // XF 18mm f2 // Rokinon 12mm f2 // XF 35mm f1.4 // Rokinon 21mm f1.4 // XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 // XF 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 // Rokinon 85mm f1.4 // Zhonghi Lensturbo ii // Various adapted MF lenses
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AlanU
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Aug 25, 2017 01:11 |  #47

EverydayGetaway wrote in post #18436408 (external link)
I'm baffled because I haven't had nearly as many issues as you seem to have had, nor have I heard of anyone else having issues like you describe. I haven't had consistent AF issues with a Fuji body since my X-E1. Now, there are certain settings which work better than others for sure.

In my experience using single point AF in dark environments is not only less reliable but far slower than using selective area AF. I recognize that my faster lenses definitely contribute to a better AF experience in general in low light, but I haven't even had issues like you're describing when using my 18-55mm, so it makes me wonder if it's a matter of how your camera i set up or how you're using it.

It's the camera....not the user ;-)a
The mirrored bodies I've ever used have never experienced this type of behavior.

I do assume the fuji will max out the aperture during AF. I know Canon will open max aperture during AF focusing.

I've now met up with enough semi pro's/pro's and hardcore enthusiast to compile enough info to say the fuji is a different beast compared to a mirrored body in AF behavior in low light. No doubt we all shoot differently but so far everyone I've spoken to LOVE fuji but they are equally as vocal as I am about pros/cons of the system. AF is still a hot topic.

I honestly do not know many events photographers using selective area AF for this type of photography. I would never ever use selective area AF for majority of my events photography. I use that for spray and pray capturing moving subjects only . I would not allow the camera to decide where I focus during run/gun documentation even if the zone selected area is small. If I aim for the eyes....I target the eyes. If Fuji's eye detection was more reliable I'd use that for posed portraits when I have alot of time on my hands. I just did an awards session (2-3 people at a time) during the winners at the largest VW show in Canada. I pulled out my 16mm with X-T2 with battery pack. I tried the face detect and eye detect and killed that feature and shot it with selected single point with much more accuracy.


5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 80D | 24LmkII | 35mm f/2 IS | 85 mkII L | 100L | EF-S 10-22 | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
Fuji X-T2 w/battery booster | 16mm f/1.4 | 56 f/1.2 | 10-24 f/4.0 | 55-200 | EF-X500

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scorpio_e
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Aug 25, 2017 05:30 |  #48

EverydayGetaway wrote in post #18435617 (external link)
You don't need to use both the trigger and an on camera flash, you can just use the flash on the camera to control the other flashes (as was pointed out earlier in this thread).

I use my TT350 to control my TT685 and it works perfectly, whether the TT350 is set to fire or not. TTL can be adjusted via the flash or the camera body.



Going backward in the thread. *LOL* Thanks for confirming I can do this. I just picked up the TT350.


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EverydayGetaway
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Aug 25, 2017 07:28 |  #49

AlanU wrote in post #18436420 (external link)
It's the camera....not the user ;-)a
The mirrored bodies I've ever used have never experienced this type of behavior.

I do assume the fuji will max out the aperture during AF. I know Canon will open max aperture during AF focusing.

I've now met up with enough semi pro's/pro's and hardcore enthusiast to compile enough info to say the fuji is a different beast compared to a mirrored body in AF behavior in low light. No doubt we all shoot differently but so far everyone I've spoken to LOVE fuji but they are equally as vocal as I am about pros/cons of the system. AF is still a hot topic.

I honestly do not know many events photographers using selective area AF for this type of photography. I would never ever use selective area AF for majority of my events photography. I use that for spray and pray capturing moving subjects only . I would not allow the camera to decide where I focus during run/gun documentation even if the zone selected area is small. If I aim for the eyes....I target the eyes. If Fuji's eye detection was more reliable I'd use that for posed portraits when I have alot of time on my hands. I just did an awards session (2-3 people at a time) during the winners at the largest VW show in Canada. I pulled out my 16mm with X-T2 with battery pack. I tried the face detect and eye detect and killed that feature and shot it with selected single point with much more accuracy.

For what type of photography? Shooting with a UWA? Shooting with a UWA the DOF is so wide that you could use hyper-focal focusing for most subjects, so I'm not sure what you mean by saying it wouldn't be precise enough.

I use zone focusing probably more than I even use single point and tend to shoot with a relatively shallow DOF, it works great. Shooting with a 16mm even at f1.4 your focus doesn't need to be on the eyes, focusing for a subjects face will return both eyes in focus unless you're for some reason framing only for their face... which would just be a very strange choice for what you just described honestly.

I'm not trying to insult your abilities, I'm just confused by some of the methods you're using. You continue to blame the tools, but it seems like you're making no effort to adapt to the tools you're using.


Fuji X-Pro2 // Fuji X-T1 // Fuji X-100T // XF 18mm f2 // Rokinon 12mm f2 // XF 35mm f1.4 // Rokinon 21mm f1.4 // XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 // XF 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 // Rokinon 85mm f1.4 // Zhonghi Lensturbo ii // Various adapted MF lenses
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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Aug 25, 2017 10:48 as a reply to EverydayGetaway's post |  #50

The 16mm at f/1.4 on a Fuji APS-C will give you a depth of field of 86cm, 2 meters [6.6 feet] from your subjuct, at 3 meter distance it's 2.1 meters in depth.

Open the aperture up to a f/2.8 and you get a DoF of 2 meters at a distance of 2 meters with 16mm.


Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. AD600BM, TT865F, AL-H198, ThinkTank AS2, Peli1514, Ona Bowery, Matthews Grip
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EverydayGetaway
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Aug 25, 2017 11:09 |  #51

Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #18436630 (external link)
The 16mm at f/1.4 on a Fuji APS-C will give you a depth of field of 86cm, 2 meters [6.6 feet] from your subjuct, at 3 meter distance it's 2.1 meters in depth.

Open the aperture up to a f/2.8 and you get a DoF of 2 meters at a distance of 2 meters with 16mm.

Exactly my point, you shouldn't need the focus point to be precisely on the eye with a 16mm at any reasonable distance.


Fuji X-Pro2 // Fuji X-T1 // Fuji X-100T // XF 18mm f2 // Rokinon 12mm f2 // XF 35mm f1.4 // Rokinon 21mm f1.4 // XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 // XF 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 // Rokinon 85mm f1.4 // Zhonghi Lensturbo ii // Various adapted MF lenses
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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Post has been last edited 1 month ago by Two Hot Shoes. 2 edits done in total.
Aug 25, 2017 11:25 as a reply to EverydayGetaway's post |  #52

Yep, just learning those things about your lenses can be very helpful, especially in manual focusing, as I know you know.

Just for fun the XF10-24 at 10mm and f/4 at a range of 2 meters has everything in focus from 0.8 meters out.

But of course you'd just set it at 1.3 meters, the hyperlocal, and then everything from 67cm out will be good. That's a fast focusing lens right there.


Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. AD600BM, TT865F, AL-H198, ThinkTank AS2, Peli1514, Ona Bowery, Matthews Grip
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AlanU
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Aug 25, 2017 11:34 |  #53

EverydayGetaway wrote in post #18436638 (external link)
Exactly my point, you shouldn't need the focus point to be precisely on the eye with a 16mm at any reasonable distance.

I've never struck this type of conversation with working professionals about using selective area AF. I don't know many photographers that allow their camera's to randomly select focus points during events photography. There are reasons why people micro adjust and do battery tests to assure proper AF with mirrored bodies.

I can never allow the camera to randomly shoot human subjects using zone for an indoor event. Zone for faster moving subjects I can appreciate zone AF. Modern Mirrored bodies never have issues selecting precise focus points in micro seconds during shutter actuation. I just still struggle with this idea that the size of the Fuji focus point can slow down fuji AF...that to me is still shockingly ironic as people think fuji AF is on par with mirrored bodies. I know the difference as I shoot both system at the same time indoors. Outdoors there is a less noticeable AF lag but for indoors it's very apparent.

I will throw this question out in the forums and ask other manufacture brand people if they use zone AF for events. I can see a newbie or inexperienced photog shooting AUTO mode doing this but not a paid semi/pro photographer for events. This topic truly is a shocker for me.....


5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 80D | 24LmkII | 35mm f/2 IS | 85 mkII L | 100L | EF-S 10-22 | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
Fuji X-T2 w/battery booster | 16mm f/1.4 | 56 f/1.2 | 10-24 f/4.0 | 55-200 | EF-X500

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AlanU
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Aug 25, 2017 11:35 |  #54

Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #18436650 (external link)
Yep, just learning those things about your lenses can be very helpful, especially in manual focusing, as I know you know.

Just for fun the XF10-24 at 10mm and f/4 at a range of 2 meters has everything in focus from 0.8 meters out.


Kim do you shoot zone AF for paid event work in weddings??????????????​?


5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 80D | 24LmkII | 35mm f/2 IS | 85 mkII L | 100L | EF-S 10-22 | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
Fuji X-T2 w/battery booster | 16mm f/1.4 | 56 f/1.2 | 10-24 f/4.0 | 55-200 | EF-X500

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AlanU
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Aug 25, 2017 12:29 |  #55

EverydayGetaway wrote in post #18436638 (external link)
Exactly my point, you shouldn't need the focus point to be precisely on the eye with a 16mm at any reasonable distance.


I just shouted out to a photog friend of mine and his jaw dropped. He said that doing such a thing using zone for events is too unreliable at wide apertures. He says he always uses single point AF. His biggest concern is the reputation of the photographer.

As I mentioned I've never heard such a thing using zone AF for events work. That is something I've never considered or do. I truly do not know anyone using zone unless it's it's for sports or fast moving subjects when fast tracking is required. Seems many sony shooters use eye detect for portrait work.

Lucas my methods is very typical and normal. I can grab my 80D using single point and never ever miss a beat even in low light. Many dslr users I know use selected af points. Only sports or birders I know can potentially use zone as this is a common practice for that sort of photographer. Most wedding shooters I would imagine majority use single point/selected af point.

We should throw out this question...


5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 80D | 24LmkII | 35mm f/2 IS | 85 mkII L | 100L | EF-S 10-22 | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
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CyberDyneSystems
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Post has been edited 1 month ago by CyberDyneSystems.
Aug 25, 2017 12:38 |  #56

Alan, the SONY shooters with it's absolutely amazing eye detection will shoot zone all day and the Camera does the work for you, and faster and better.

https://www.dpreview.c​om ...8044/sony-an-eye-on-focus (external link)
https://www.slrlounge.​com ...redator-see-it-in-action/ (external link)

Eye detection in DSLRs is still in it's infancy compared to what the SONY mirrorless are doing with it.

The times they are a changen...


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AlanU
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Post has been edited 1 month ago by AlanU.
Aug 25, 2017 12:53 |  #57

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #18436696 (external link)
Alan, the SONY shooters with it's absolutely amazing eye detection will shoot zone all day and the Camera does the work for you, and faster and better.

https://www.dpreview.c​om ...8044/sony-an-eye-on-focus (external link)
https://www.slrlounge.​com ...redator-see-it-in-action/ (external link)

Eye detection in DSLRs is still in it's infancy compared to what the SONY mirrorless are doing with it.

The times they are a changen...

I agree Jake.

Last weekend I did an awards documentation at a car show in good light with my 16mm prime. Fuji eye detect was not "amazing" at all and had to turn that function off.

Jake are these Sony shooters using Zone AF for human subject during events social gatherings?? Doing a quick zoom in on a subject will not necessarily be in the photographer's control where the focus point goes for a fuji shooter. Sony eye detect is suppose to be extremely good but Fuji is still in it's infancy.

You dont think I've been impressed with the Sony A9!!! :)

My discussion was based on zone AF with fuji in events. I'd feel very strange letting the camera choose my focus points. .....that's just me.

I'll make a poll on POTN


5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 80D | 24LmkII | 35mm f/2 IS | 85 mkII L | 100L | EF-S 10-22 | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
Fuji X-T2 w/battery booster | 16mm f/1.4 | 56 f/1.2 | 10-24 f/4.0 | 55-200 | EF-X500

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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Aug 25, 2017 13:07 |  #58

Generally I'll only use zone if I feel I won't be able to keep the AF point on the subject, like kids running about at a wedding. I keep it tight though. Otherwise it's single point for me. I rarely use face detect although it has gotten a lot better but until I can zone + face I'll not use it if there are more than one person looking. Go try sonys new face tracking its great and shows what can be done.

With enough depth of field tight zone would work well I'd imagine, and make moving the AF area about quicker. Even if your DoF is only 12cm it would be enough to have a face sharp.

Also if you select the fine AF point in the 5D3 it's AF slows down so it not synonymous to Fuji and that makes sense if you think about it.


Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. AD600BM, TT865F, AL-H198, ThinkTank AS2, Peli1514, Ona Bowery, Matthews Grip
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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Aug 25, 2017 14:13 |  #59

AlanU wrote in post #18436710 (external link)
I'll make a poll on POTN

Why don't you just try it and see if it works for you? If it does great, if not, no loss. Then you don't have the worry about what or how others are doing things.

I think Mr. Getaway was pointing to the fact that a wide angle lens will give you enough DoF at a 'normal' distance to allow anything in the zone to be sharp. Probably not talking wide zone AF with a tele lens through a crowd although I don't want to speak out of turn or for another choice/abilities. There area many ways of doing things.


Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. AD600BM, TT865F, AL-H198, ThinkTank AS2, Peli1514, Ona Bowery, Matthews Grip
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Osa713
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Aug 25, 2017 14:49 as a reply to AlanU's post |  #60

Zone works very well for me at events where people are moving.

Single point I use for portraits where I know people wouldn't move as much and I can focus on One persons face.

I read this before buying the camera and it helped me immensely as coming from canon the wording was different.

https://www.google.com ...h-my-x-series-camera/amp/ (external link)

Everyone has their way to do things, there is no right or wrong way, like Kim said use what works for you, no need to poll. :-D


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