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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk
Thread started 14 Sep 2017 (Thursday) 14:15
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4000 vs 8000 shutter speed

 
gjl711
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Sep 20, 2017 06:27 |  #91

mdvaden wrote in post #18456269 (external link)
There's probably little gain to show what you think would be worse or better by an increment, because what seems most practical is a photo closer to what I want even if it's merely one increment worth. For example, the image below was shot at f/1.2 ... and regardless what anybody else thinks, that's the depth of field I liked so just a few needles are in focus. To go f/1/8 or f/2.0 instead would have increased depth of field by 60% or 70%. This was shot from close to 6 ft. away.

QUOTED IMAGE

Was i shot at f/1.2 and 1/8000th? It's a good example of fine use of shallow DOF but does it also top the cameras speed limitation. Would 1/4000th have killed the image. I'm guessing it was shot much slower than that but without exif, I'm guessing.


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John ­ Sheehy
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Sep 20, 2017 08:42 |  #92

EverydayGetaway wrote in post #18456292 (external link)
I honestly can't say that I have... I'm usually pretty aware of what settings my camera is set to so I know when/what I need to change if the moment calls for it. I can see how that would potentially be useful, but we're talking about a 1-stop missed exposure for a hypothetical shot... seems like a lot to fuss about over 1 camera feature.

That's a lovely shot.

I'm still not convinced that it wouldn't be just as lovely at f2 (though in this example I'd be surprised to hear this was above 1/4000s anyway), but as you said, that doesn't really matter. What does matter is that I still think it's silly to shell out a huge amount of extra cash for an added stop of SS. Which is why my first response to the OP's question "Do you need 1/8000s?" was and still is "No.".

You're designing the game around your own playing style.

There are people who want maximum DOF, some or all of the time. On a sunny day, they can not shoot in M mode at 1/4000 and f/1.4 or thereabouts or lower, with many cameras, without blowing matte whites.

This is not a subtle issue for them. The camera either allows using their lens wide open without clipping, or it doesn't. This is a binary thing for them. They are forced to have more DOF than they want and what their lens allows.

For those people, a 1/4000 shutter speed limit can be a major PITA, until cameras start having DxO-like "Measured ISO" values at base ISO of 50 or less, and even lower for f/0.9 lenses.

I don't know why you think it is trivial that it is dangerous to open your lens all the way on some cameras. Trivial to you perhaps, and many others, but very real to others.




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904canon
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Sep 20, 2017 08:55 |  #93

HSS




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Charlie
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Sep 20, 2017 09:22 |  #94

John Sheehy wrote in post #18456447 (external link)
You're designing the game around your own playing style.

There are people who want maximum DOF, some or all of the time. On a sunny day, they can not shoot in M mode at 1/4000 and f/1.4 or thereabouts or lower, with many cameras, without blowing matte whites.

This is not a subtle issue for them. The camera either allows using their lens wide open without clipping, or it doesn't. This is a binary thing for them. They are forced to have more DOF than they want and what their lens allows.

For those people, a 1/4000 shutter speed limit can be a major PITA, until cameras start having DxO-like "Measured ISO" values at base ISO of 50 or less, and even lower for f/0.9 lenses.

I don't know why you think it is trivial that it is dangerous to open your lens all the way on some cameras. Trivial to you perhaps, and many others, but very real to others.

I think he's aware of 1/8000, and sometimes that's really hard to hit, and other times, the light is just so harsh that for a given type of light, you'de have to stop down one click.

the thread premise is based on how badly 1/8000 is a NEED, and I think the answer is not really. 1/8000 is about as needed as F0.95 lenses I would say. I like shooting wide as the next guy, f0.95 @ 1/8000

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Charlie
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Sep 20, 2017 09:24 |  #95

904canon wrote in post #18456454 (external link)
HSS

I think this is the most legit reason for 1/8000 need. In some scenarios, it may not even be enough, but certainly better than 1/4000


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Talley
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Sep 20, 2017 10:07 |  #96

This is like asking if we really need photography at all. Do we need cars that can exceed the speed limit? Do we need supersize options at fast food joints? Do we need such a variety of food options at the grocery store? Do we need 4K? Do we need internet? Do we need religion? Do we need politics? Do we need debt?


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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Sep 20, 2017 10:27 |  #97

whatever you're smoking tally, save some for me.


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mdvaden
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Post has been edited 29 days ago by mdvaden.
Sep 20, 2017 10:37 |  #98

Charlie wrote in post #18456473 (external link)
I think he's aware of 1/8000, and sometimes that's really hard to hit, and other times, the light is just so harsh that for a given type of light, you'de have to stop down one click.

the thread premise is based on how badly 1/8000 is a NEED, and I think the answer is not really. 1/8000 is about as needed as F0.95 lenses I would say. I like shooting wide as the next guy, f0.95 @ 1/8000

The OP and your reply both show that the thread may revolve more around desire than a certain answer. Because as you note that 1/8000 isn't really needed, using the f/0.95 example, we could also say 1/4000 is about as needed as f/1.2 lenses.

Not a bad question though. I enjoy hearing all the variables people introduce in replies.


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Charlie
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Sep 20, 2017 10:54 |  #99

Talley wrote in post #18456492 (external link)
This is like asking if we really need photography at all. Do we need cars that can exceed the speed limit? Do we need supersize options at fast food joints? Do we need such a variety of food options at the grocery store? Do we need 4K? Do we need internet? Do we need religion? Do we need politics? Do we need debt?

well, you can certainly expand the 1/8000 debate.

why not 1/32,000?

is that a "need"?

I'de say it's a nice feature, but could I do without? yeah, sure.


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teekay
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Sep 20, 2017 11:19 |  #100

I suggest that most of us don't "need" a whole lot of the features and settings (all those auto"scene" options, for example) that are available on most cameras now, but on occasion it's good to have them for specialized shots or experimenting.

For example, I have 1/16000 electronic shutter available on my Panasonic FZ1000 and used that shutter speed taking videos of fluorescent lights with interesting results.




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pulsar123
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Post has been edited 28 days ago by pulsar123.
Sep 20, 2017 13:22 |  #101

As many people suggested, a 1/4000s camera plus an ND filter works just fine for most of those situations where you would need 1/8000s. In fact, with f1.2 you might find yourself in a situation when even 1/8000s is too long, but a 8x ND filter would fix it just fine.

This is the same question I was asking myself when I made a recent switch to FF, from 50D ( which has 1/8000s) to 6D (which doesn't). Just in case I ordered 8x ND filters for my faster lenses (like 135L), but honestly I don't expect using them much. In my experience, every time you feel you need 1/8000s is simply a wrong time of the day to take that photo.


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rantercsr
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Sep 20, 2017 13:50 |  #102

I understand being at a location at 6 am for a sunset being the wrong time of day to take that photo ..


But not everything happens during those sweet spots


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Phoenixkh
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Sep 20, 2017 17:33 |  #103

I'm not a professional. Among other things, this means I can usually choose the time of day I'm out and about. I tend to have better results in the later afternoon hours... as the sun is not as high in the sky and the shadows are more pronounced.

Even in those conditions, I've used a shutter speed faster than 1/4000. I know I'll have to adapt some if I want a different lens on my 6Dc, for instance... using a two camera setup. It isn't rocket science..and I don't have any f/1.2 or even f/1.4 glass at this point. Heck, I seldom shoot my 100-400L ii at f/5.6... I'm usually at f/7.1 or 8 to get the whole heron or other larger wading bird in focus. Smaller birds... well, for those, I do open things up a bit.


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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Post has been last edited 28 days ago by Two Hot Shoes. 2 edits done in total.
Sep 20, 2017 17:50 |  #104

My feelings are it's only one stop & I know some will go on about how they need [LIke] bokeh or DoF or something, that's fine and if you only want that, well f/1.2 or 0.95 on a full frame is where you'll probably end, needing 1/8000.

These days I think most new cameras have a good electronic shutter, I know my Fuji goes up to 1/32,000.
So for a lot of situations the 1/8000 mechanical shutter is a moot point as you can just move into the E shutter. And yes I know the rolling shutter effect on moving subjects.
Here's one at ISO200 [native base on the Fuji] shot at 1/20,000 at F/1.2. Could have shot this as 3.2 I guess if I only had 1/4000, wouldn't have made much difference but it's just an example

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Charlie
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Sep 20, 2017 18:04 |  #105

Phoenixkh wrote in post #18456750 (external link)
I'm not a professional. Among other things, this means I can usually choose the time of day I'm out and about. I tend to have better results in the later afternoon hours... as the sun is not as high in the sky and the shadows are more pronounced.

Even in those conditions, I've used a shutter speed faster than 1/4000. I know I'll have to adapt some if I want a different lens on my 6Dc, for instance... using a two camera setup. It isn't rocket science..and I don't have any f/1.2 or even f/1.4 glass at this point. Heck, I seldom shoot my 100-400L ii at f/5.6... I'm usually at f/7.1 or 8 to get the whole heron or other larger wading bird in focus. Smaller birds... well, for those, I do open things up a bit.

you can certainly investigate how often fast prime shooters actually run into 1/8000

85 f1.2 thread: http://photography-on-the.net .../showthread.php?t=1​048516

Of course you can look at your own library and see how often you hit 1/8000

I see a shot, 10:16AM, 1/4000, f1.2.

considering the photo was a little underexposed, I would guess that not until 11AM, would 1/8000 be triggered, and it would likely last till 4pm.

so if your subject is adventurous enough to stay in direct sun during those times, then you're in the clear. And one more thing, from 12PM - 3PM, you may need 1/16000 ;-)a


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4000 vs 8000 shutter speed
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