Houston1852 wrote in post #18466593
Thank you all for your input, I really appreciate it! I do have a 430 ex2 flash but I can't quite get a grasp on it. I tend to eventually get the results I'm looking for but it takes a bit of trial and error. I never really know what output to use. I don't get why if I lower the flash output the little distance number goes up! To me it seems like it should be the opposite. Just an example if I have the flash at maybe +1 it might give me an effective range of 2m. If I lower the output to maybe -1 it would show the effective range at 9m. These numbers are just examples of what I'm seeing, I'm at work so can't give actual numbers. I just don't get why lowering flash output raises effective distance and the opposite on raising flash output? Also do I need a flash meter to rule out so much trial and error? Is there a good book on the subject without getting too into strobes and all that other gear?
Right now I'm thinking 5D3 but I'll look more at the 5D4, I just don't see it being below $2500 in the next 2yrs.
My wide angle lens is actually a 16-35 2.8
You already have the tools, so just practice with your flash. You don't have to set it manually. Use ETTL. Then simply adjust FEC +/- based on if you want it to be fill or key light. Using it as a bounce source (point it at the ceiling, wall, etc) gives you a huge boost of soft diffuse nice light indoors. But be attentive to where you point it, the angle, as that's where the light source will become and spread out, and bounce around (as in, don't point it behind them if you're trying to light up their eyes). Just be mindful of where you're pointing your flash. It's a total different experience to shoot ETTL bounce flash indoors compared to just manually adjusting power and pointing it at someone's face, just practice with it. Let the technology work for you. [IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/vCRe5X]IMG_4388
Slap that 24-70 or 16-35 on your 5D with the flash on there and get to it.
Flash allows you to not care much about ISO performance on your camera, your camera is plenty modern enough for this. You really don't even need a new body. A 5D3 would be nice, because you can actually AF with the outer points and they're accurate. But you may not even need that. Frankly, in a dark house, a 6D would have better center point AF than even the 5D3. The 5DIV is better of course, but at 3x the cost (not worth it in my opinion for this).
There's a huge difference between doing formal studio or outdoor portrait sessions, and being a parent and just making nice photos of your children day to day and having fun. You'll get a ton more out of having lighting than you will just spending thousands on a camera body. And your lenses are great for all of this.
Final tip: get on the ground, get below their eye level, it changes everything. This is why the 16-35 is so useful.
You don't need a $1000 lens, or a $2500~3500 camera.
The cheap 85mm F1.8 prime is excellent. I don't get all the fuss about CA and all that.
by Martin Wise
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