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FORUMS Sony Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Sony Cameras
Thread started 09 Jun 2017 (Friday) 10:57
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Sony Lounge Thread MKIII (All Sony cameras welcome)

 
navydoc
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Oct 19, 2017 00:31 |  #5776

Charlie wrote in post #18475771 (external link)
playing with some bubbles, snapshots with the cv 35
thumbnailHosted photo: posted by Charlie in
./showthread.php?p=184​75771&i=i215653120
forum: Sony Cameras
thumbnailHosted photo: posted by Charlie in
./showthread.php?p=184​75771&i=i158802861
forum: Sony Cameras

Cute. :-)


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navydoc
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Oct 19, 2017 00:31 |  #5777

Here are the newest features in Photoshop 2018:

https://www.adobe.com ...s/photoshop/feature​s.html (external link)


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xpfloyd
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Oct 19, 2017 00:47 |  #5778

David Arbogast wrote in post #18475712 (external link)
Ever since Google announced they were killing off Nik I’ve been preparing myself for the time when it stops working in later versions of PS.

Hope someone finds a fix, but for my part my PS skills have improved and I don’t need to rely on it any more.

I need to get my finger out and learn new ways of applying contrast in PS. I use “pro contrast” in nik in every single image. I don’t really use any other part of nik anymore apart from maybe darken/lighten centre sometimes. If I could just work out how to do pro contrast adjustments manually I would be set


Eddie | flickr (external link)| gear
x100F | α7R II
Voigtlander 4.5/15 | Zeiss Loxia 2.8/21 | Samyang 1.4/24 | Contax Zeiss 4.5-5.6/100-300
Sony 2/28 | Sony/Zeiss 1.8/55 | Zeiss Batis 1.8/85 | Sony 2.8/90

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navydoc
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Oct 19, 2017 01:07 |  #5779

xpfloyd wrote in post #18475783 (external link)
I need to get my finger out and learn new ways of applying contrast in PS. I use “pro contrast” in nik in every single image. I don’t really use any other part of nik anymore apart from maybe darken/lighten centre sometimes. If I could just work out how to do pro contrast adjustments manually I would be set

Have you tried using the "Unsharp Mask" for micro contrast Eddie? It's not the same as Nik's Pro contrast but it can do a pretty decent job of adding that 'pop'. The downside is that it is a destructive effect so you'd want to do it on a copy. I usually use the ctl+alt+shft+e combination to create a 'stamp visible' layer to work on. For the three sliders in the unsharp mask tool, you want to use the opposite of what you would normally use to sharpen. Set the Threshold value to 0 and increase the radius to about 80-100. Now by adjusting the amount slider to a low amount, you can adjust the contrast. I typically use 11 for the amount as a good starting point. The more you increase the amount, the greater the contrast becomes.

This method has no effect on adjusting the white balance of the image though.


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vinmunoz
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Post has been edited 1 month ago by vinmunoz.
Oct 19, 2017 01:08 |  #5780

Nik works on my computer.

I just went to the plugins folder of the 2017 copy all what's in there and pasted it to the plugin folder of the 2018 version.

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navydoc
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Oct 19, 2017 01:10 |  #5781

vinmunoz wrote in post #18475793 (external link)
Nik works on my computer.
thumbnailHosted photo: posted by vinmunoz in
./showthread.php?p=184​75793&i=i35868009
forum: Sony Cameras

That's good news Vinz. You didn't need to copy the plugins from the 2017 version to the 2018 version?


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vinmunoz
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Oct 19, 2017 01:11 |  #5782

i updated my post above. yes i copied and pasted to the new plugins folder of the 2018


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MedicineMan4040
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Oct 19, 2017 01:26 as a reply to post 18475563 |  #5783

When you get old enough you just might; I don't think you're there just yet.
Did you ever play with a 1 inch sensor Sony? Most coming from FF will be disappointed
but there are lots of tools in the RX100 series and RX10 series that are just amazing when
applied to the 1 inche---like MFNR, Handheld Twilight.....but for say a Disney trip and not
wanting to lug a tripod those shots would do for me, but of course not for everyone.

My next venue is Conowingo and I think the 10iv will ride nice on my belt. I'll be shooting the
eagles with the a9 rig but the photographers themselves are to be imaged and sometimes the action
is really really close.

Time will tell on how useful this new one is. I just got through assigning parameters to a custom hold
bank and then to a Custom key exactly like I do on the a9. The green dancing squares are identical too
except Zone is not on this camera. So lots of similarity.

Somewhere Sony even has a cutaway or 'see through' image showing all the weather seals; that's something
I haven't seen with many other Sony cameras?? Maybe they are out there and I haven't found.


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MedicineMan4040
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Oct 19, 2017 02:04 |  #5784

mickeyb105 wrote in post #18475283 (external link)
Crazy performance for a WA zoom!

I'm tempted Mickey. I went to Colby Brown's site ---good site by the way--- and of course
he's a paid Sony operative but he has a shot of the Milky Way with that zoom and it is really
good. Since it beats the Loxia 21 I'm sure it beats my Batis 18 then I'd have double duty.
He also showed the size comparison to the 16-35/4 and it's really not that bad a punishment.
Maybe next year :)


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xpfloyd
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Oct 19, 2017 02:05 |  #5785

navydoc wrote in post #18475792 (external link)
Have you tried using the "Unsharp Mask" for micro contrast Eddie? It's not the same as Nik's Pro contrast but it can do a pretty decent job of adding that 'pop'. The downside is that it is a destructive effect so you'd want to do it on a copy. I usually use the ctl+alt+shft+e combination to create a 'stamp visible' layer to work on. For the three sliders in the unsharp mask tool, you want to use the opposite of what you would normally use to sharpen. Set the Threshold value to 0 and increase the radius to about 80-100. Now by adjusting the amount slider to a low amount, you can adjust the contrast. I typically use 11 for the amount as a good starting point. The more you increase the amount, the greater the contrast becomes.

This method has no effect on adjusting the white balance of the image though.

Gene, I also use unsharp mask on most images for sharpening. My settings are low (0.7-1.2 - can’t remember the other settings for it from memory). I know the sharpening effect is from contrast but pro contrast in nik seems to do something different. In nik, within pro contrast there are correct contrast and dynamic contrast. I only use one of 3 values for each (0,13,29). Nothing stronger than that. It has the effect of popping the colour as well as the contrast without affecting sharpness. Not sure how to replicate that


Eddie | flickr (external link)| gear
x100F | α7R II
Voigtlander 4.5/15 | Zeiss Loxia 2.8/21 | Samyang 1.4/24 | Contax Zeiss 4.5-5.6/100-300
Sony 2/28 | Sony/Zeiss 1.8/55 | Zeiss Batis 1.8/85 | Sony 2.8/90

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MedicineMan4040
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Oct 19, 2017 02:06 |  #5786

eriet30 wrote in post #18475327 (external link)
ooooooooooooooo...... I can stare at these all day lol-?

Me too. There is something about petroglyphs that take me out of my time. I swear I had a parallel universe
moment staring at some once; I felt like just a 1/2 second off I could see people moving around--people as in
the Fremont in their actual time. Kinda freaked me out----but I'm currently watching 'The Man in the High Castle'
and there is a corollary.


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digital_AM
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Post has been last edited 1 month ago by digital_AM. 2 edits done in total.
Oct 19, 2017 06:42 |  #5787

xpfloyd wrote in post #18475817 (external link)
Gene, I also use unsharp mask on most images for sharpening. My settings are low (0.7-1.2 - can’t remember the other settings for it from memory). I know the sharpening effect is from contrast but pro contrast in nik seems to do something different. In nik, within pro contrast there are correct contrast and dynamic contrast. I only use one of 3 values for each (0,13,29). Nothing stronger than that. It has the effect of popping the colour as well as the contrast without affecting sharpness. Not sure how to replicate that

Eddie, my best guess is you can achieve your dynamic range adjustment in PS CC by apppying a curves adjustment to the midtones using a targeted luminosity mask. This way it doesn’t affect the highlights. That should get you close to your 29 value for dynamic contrast. Then to mimic the contrast adjustment from Nik (your 13 value), I would apply a gradient map adjustment and set blending mode to luminosity. Then adjust the opacity. I will give this a try and post some results.


Sony α7R II / ILCE-7RM2, α6000 / ILCE-6000 | Sony Sonnar T* FE 55mm F1.8 ZA | Carl Zeiss Loxia 21mm F2.8, Loxia 85mm F2.4, Batis 18mm F2.8 | Voigtlander Heliar Ultra Wide-Angle 12mm f/5.6 | Tokina AT-X 90mm f/2.5 macro |

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TRhoads
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Post has been edited 1 month ago by TRhoads.
Oct 19, 2017 07:49 |  #5788

seems that I have somehow totally screwed up my installation then...I have a plan, just need the time to work on it, behind on editing for clients, and have my first homecoming shoot this weekend...so it has to stay as is for now.

how about a photo...more racecars...well, one racecar, early morning light...

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xpfloyd
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Oct 19, 2017 07:57 |  #5789

digital_AM wrote in post #18475880 (external link)
Eddie, my best guess is you can achieve your dynamic range adjustment in PS CC by apppying a curves adjustment to the midtones using a targeted luminosity mask. This way it doesn’t affect the highlights. That should get you close to your 29 value for dynamic contrast. Then to mimic the contrast adjustment from Nik (your 13 value), I would apply a gradient map adjustment and set blending mode to luminosity. Then adjust the opacity. I will give this a try and post some results.

thanks Alfredo, I’ll have to ponder that a bit to get my head around it :-)

To clarify my settings within the pro contrast plugin I keep “correct colour cast” to zero. Then for “correct contrast” and “dynamic contrast” I either set them at 0%, 13% or 29% so sometimes both will be at 13, other times one at 0 and one at 29, other times both at 29 etc. Basically I adjust to suit but always use one of those 3 values (arbitrary numbers but it’s what I stick to for some reason).

I’ll get my head around what you have suggested and start having a play about. Ultimately I would like to create a few actions in photoshop that get me reasonable close to the nik output


Eddie | flickr (external link)| gear
x100F | α7R II
Voigtlander 4.5/15 | Zeiss Loxia 2.8/21 | Samyang 1.4/24 | Contax Zeiss 4.5-5.6/100-300
Sony 2/28 | Sony/Zeiss 1.8/55 | Zeiss Batis 1.8/85 | Sony 2.8/90

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xpfloyd
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Oct 19, 2017 07:59 |  #5790

TRhoads wrote in post #18475907 (external link)
seems that I have somehow totally screwed up my installation then...I have a plan, just need the time to work on it, behind on editing for clients, and have my first homecoming shoot this weekend...so it has to stay as is for now.

how about a photo...more racecars...well, one racecar, early morning light...

thumbnailHosted photo: posted by TRhoads in
./showthread.php?p=184​75907&i=i52504635
forum: Sony Cameras

Travis previously I had an issue with my plugins. I eventually realised there was 2 plugin folders. I had them in the one that was within the software folders (where my other ones were that worked) but realised there was a second plugin folder within the shared files folder. Once I copied the offending one there it worked.

Not sure if this helps but thought I would post in case


Eddie | flickr (external link)| gear
x100F | α7R II
Voigtlander 4.5/15 | Zeiss Loxia 2.8/21 | Samyang 1.4/24 | Contax Zeiss 4.5-5.6/100-300
Sony 2/28 | Sony/Zeiss 1.8/55 | Zeiss Batis 1.8/85 | Sony 2.8/90

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