Chet wrote in post #18476044
You can push clarity and highlights in LR. Drop Saturation to 0, to convert to black and white. Play with shadows and blacks to get look you are after. At least this applies to the 1st image. The NIK filter Silver Efex Pro, which is a free plug-in from Google will work with LR or Photoshop. It can give you many options to play with as well.
I would never just drop the saturation to zero to do a black and white conversion in any software, it is a really poor option. You are usually much better off using a specific conversion tool, be that the Black and White filter or channel mixer in Ps, or using Lr/ACR (including opening RGB data in ACR as the Camera Raw Filter) and choosing Black and White as the treatment. My personal preference is for Lr/ACR since the Black and White Treatment offers the highest number of colour channels available in the mixer for an Adobe product. IIRC I think it actually has one more channel than even Silver Efex.
The biggest reason to use a system that allows chanel mixing is so that you can achieve tonal separation between different colours that would otherwise end up the same insipid mid tone. In general you will probably want to set things up so that you darken blues and lighten reds, or the converse, while leaving the greens neutral. This gives a look that is much closer to what you would expect to see from a black and white film. The norm would be darker blues, and lighter reds, as this is similar to what you get from most panchromatic films. The degrees of lightening and darkening on film would also be affected by using the various colour filters. I have actually built my own presets in Lr to match the results that I would have got using Ilford FP4 and HP5 combined with various colour filters, and then printed on a mid contrast grade paper.
I tried Silver Efex, but IMO the film simulations for FP4 and HP5, and even Tri-X, all look like the results of printing on a really hard (contrasty) paper, printing on Grade 5 should really be reserved for a very thin negative, not as standard. If you then throw on one of the colour filter options the image just ends up looking totally wrong to the way I remember fresh prints looking. I suppose that my problem is that after spending so many hours in the darkroom as a youngster, striving for a good quality print, that is the look I'm now after in a black and white conversion. Silver Efex really seems to not be designed to produce what would have been called a good print by many.