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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing
Thread started 16 Dec 2017 (Saturday) 01:05
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Taking the bull (Adobe Photoshop) by the horns - feedback appreciated

 
shocolite
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Ireland (when I do get home!)
Dec 16, 2017 01:05 |  #1

Used to do a lot of film photography, then life got busy and digital sort of passed me by. I did buy a 350D back in the day that I had till a few years ago and when I got some decent money I bought a 6D. GAS hit me but I never got digital photo processing/editing. I am good with computers but I let the likes of Photoshop pass me by.

I have now made it a resolution to learn properly, would like to do a course but my working away all the time doesn't help so I have delved into using books and online tutorials and just now bit the bullet to edit a RAW file in Adobe Camera raw to tweak an underexposed image.

I have a before and after, any general comments? I think the clouds are still a bit washed out but is was one of those cloudy/showery days in October in Scotland and I think the watery sun caused the underexposure in the image. I guess for many photographers the pp on images would be relatively minor, just like what I have done with exposure,contrast, saturation etc in RAW just to provide a quick tweak/fix? I am using Adobe on my laptop with an uncalibrated screen (I know!) but for now I am just getting to grips with using Photoshop & RAW!

First image is the original and the second is the tweaked image (both RAW images output to jpeg).

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texkam
"Just let me be a stupid photographer."
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By The Lake in Big D
Dec 16, 2017 04:07 |  #2

Phlearn videos on YouTube, find very good.




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troutfisher
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Dec 16, 2017 07:04 |  #3

You need to get your head round layers and masking, its not difficult just tedious.
In the pic you have posted you have got the exposure up on the road but in doing so you have also lifted the exposure on the sky.
Using layers you could vary the exposure on both the road/ foreground and the sky/ mountains.
BTW if you turn on image editing then people can play and show you what can be achieved and more importantly how.


Chris
" Age and treachery will always defeat youth and enthusiasm"

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Stiga
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Dec 16, 2017 07:41 |  #4

Yes, you are on the right track. Many of the online tutorials are excellent and you don't need to spend a penny!

For this scene, these are crucial tools:
1. In ACR

IMAGE: http://i.cubeupload.com/3FpJmx.gif
and/or
2. In Photoshop itself
IMAGE: http://i.cubeupload.com/uM9Azv.png

Taking you 2nd image, this is what I have managed to generate.

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Martin
I'm not a gear guy but I have a tons of software :-)

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tzalman
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Dec 16, 2017 07:55 |  #5

BTW if you turn on image editing then people can play and show you what can be achieved and more importantly how.

Better yet, if you upload the CR2 file to a file sharing site like Dropbox and post the download URL here, members could show you what they can do working from the full data set.


Elie / אלי

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PhotosGuy
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Dec 16, 2017 08:32 |  #6

Three pages on Layer Masks (external link)

My favorite to modify just parts of an image are
Adjustment Layers for local changes to color & density. (external link) They open with a mask built in and are easy to work with.

Tutorial - Create a layer mask from image detail


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
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Stiga
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Dec 16, 2017 08:42 |  #7

troutfisher wrote in post #18519091 (external link)
You need to get your head round layers and masking, its not difficult just tedious.
In the pic you have posted you have got the exposure up on the road but in doing so you have also lifted the exposure on the sky.
Using layers you could vary the exposure on both the road/ foreground and the sky/ mountains.
BTW if you turn on image editing then people can play and show you what can be achieved and more importantly how.

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18519133 (external link)
Three pages on Layer Masks (external link)

My favorite to modify just parts of an image are
Adjustment Layers for local changes to color & density. (external link) They open with a mask built in and are easy to work with.

Tutorial - Create a layer mask from image detail

shocolit has told us that he is relatively new to Photoshop so IMO, it's better that he learns the basics before jumping in at the deep end.


Martin
I'm not a gear guy but I have a tons of software :-)

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PhotosGuy
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Dec 16, 2017 08:49 |  #8

Stiga wrote in post #18519137 (external link)
shocolit has told us that he is relatively new to Photoshop so IMO, it's better that he learns the basics before jumping in at the deep end.

I understand your concern, but layers & masks are basic, & without them, PS would be pretty useless to me.


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
Classic Carz, Racing, Air Show, Flowers.
Find the light... A few Car Lighting Tips, and MOVE YOUR FEET!
Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
New Image Size Limits: Image must not exceed 1280 pixels on any side.

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rrblint
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Dec 16, 2017 09:13 |  #9

I like the original, kind of a "lonely road to nowhere" vibe to it. Just bring up the shadows slightly, while bringing down the sky. You've got a great image here, don't overdo it.


Mark

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DagoImaging
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Dec 16, 2017 09:15 |  #10

For me this scene lends better for a pano shape.

Using just LR you can get nice depth to the image.

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Using LR then PS w/ LM masks you can get similar yet a bit deeper control of it.


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rrblint
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Dec 16, 2017 09:39 |  #11

rrblint wrote in post #18519159 (external link)
I like the original, kind of a "lonely road to nowhere" vibe to it. Just bring up the shadows slightly, while bringing down the sky. You've got a great image here, don't overdo it.


Something like this maybe?


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Mark

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Sideshot
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Dec 16, 2017 09:49 |  #12

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18519142 (external link)
I understand your concern, but layers & masks are basic, & without them, PS would be pretty useless to me.

I agree the real power of PS is layers and masks IMO. Without that you could just stay in LR or similar.




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shocolite
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Dec 16, 2017 15:16 |  #13

Hi All,

Thanks for the feedback! I have just learned some basics using layers in the last couple of days and can see how important they are for dealing with different areas of an image. And also how some mood has been brought back into the sky - which I knew was washed out but wasn't sure how to get there!

I will keep at it - I have an incentive to learn and looking at some of the great posts here of images that are brought to life with post processing just shows how much it can benefit an image!

Oh and sorry for the late reply - just had my shut-eye!


Canon 80D & 700D; EF-S 10-18/18-55/18-135 STM, EF-S 18-135 IS USM, 50 F1.4, 100 F2.8L Macro, 16-35 F4L, 70-200 F4L IS; 100-400 L II, Speedlite 430EX II

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BigAl007
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Joined Dec 2010
Repps cum Bastwick, Gt Yarmouth, Norfolk, UK.
Dec 17, 2017 04:10 |  #14

One thing that I have noticed is that the original image is somewhat oversharpened. I see a sharpening halo around the mountains even in the "unedited" version, and some of the other edits, since it's already there really pull the halos out.

I put the unedited in quote marks, since all RAW images have to be processed, which is in effect edited. What you one must remember is that when you open a RAW image in a converter what you see initially is simply a set of default editing decisions made by the programmer. Those defaults vary quite a bit from program to program. DPP for example is the only program that can read the full Canon conversion parameters from the camera, and exactly duplicate them. That means that the DPP default is identical to the in camera conversion. Most other publishers have their defaults toned down quite a bit, since generally they are expecting you to put your own stamp on the images regarding your editing preferences.

Most other publishers make it relatively easy to reset the default conversion to closer match you own prefered starting point. I know that in Lr for example it is very easy to actually reset your defaults, you just need to hit the Alt key and click what was the Reset button, and is now the Set Default button. I don't use ACR enough to remember just how you do it in that program, but it is possible that even if you have the image with no changes after opening it, the sharpening controls, or any other settings, have had the default settings changed. So it is not unfeasible that you could have more sharpening applied than you think.

Stiga is correct, in Lr/ACR the Highlights/Shadows and Whites/Blacks sliders can be more important than the Exposure slider. One thing I will say is that you usually don't need to worry too much about over applying the Highlights/Shadows sliders. I shoot aircraft against the sky a lot, and those to sliders really help. My defaults for for them are Highlights -100, Shadows +75. I actually have a lot of shots where they are set to ±100

Alan


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shocolite
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Dec 17, 2017 16:02 |  #15

BigAl007 wrote in post #18519864 (external link)
I know that in Lr for example it is very easy to actually reset your defaults, you just need to hit the Alt key and click what was the Reset button, and is now the Set Default button..

Stiga is correct, in Lr/ACR the Highlights/Shadows and Whites/Blacks sliders can be more important than the Exposure slider. One thing I will say is that you usually don't need to worry too much about over applying the Highlights/Shadows sliders.

Alan


Thanks for highlighting your and Stiga's points - I forgot to reset PP when I saved the "before" image as a JPEG and guess it applied the settings I had previously. Ooops!


Canon 80D & 700D; EF-S 10-18/18-55/18-135 STM, EF-S 18-135 IS USM, 50 F1.4, 100 F2.8L Macro, 16-35 F4L, 70-200 F4L IS; 100-400 L II, Speedlite 430EX II

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Taking the bull (Adobe Photoshop) by the horns - feedback appreciated
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