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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Macro Talk
Thread started 17 Dec 2017 (Sunday) 10:48
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Anyone tried this set-up??

 
Pigpen101
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Dec 17, 2017 10:48 |  #1

I came across this image @ 500px and according to the details he's provided, it was shot with a 70-200mm. I would have to assume either bellows or extension tubes were used. Any advice or example pics would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

https://500px.com ...otos&ctx_q=focus+st​acking (external link)




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LordV
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Dec 18, 2017 00:34 |  #2

Think you will find it was shot with a mitutoyo microscope objective which requires a long focal length lens behind it to work properly.
Brian V.


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Pigpen101
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Dec 18, 2017 16:40 |  #3

LordV wrote in post #18520629 (external link)
Think you will find it was shot with a mitutoyo microscope objective which requires a long focal length lens behind it to work properly.
Brian V.

Thanks for clearing that up. I saw nothing of it in the "details", but I also know that not everything is always listed.
That's why I asked here. I know the minimal focal distance on the 70-200 several feet.

So the microscope pieces are attached to the front of this lens?




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Dalantech
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Post has been edited 1 month ago by Dalantech.
Dec 19, 2017 03:43 |  #4

Pigpen101 wrote in post #18521168 (external link)
Thanks for clearing that up. I saw nothing of it in the "details", but I also know that not everything is always listed.
That's why I asked here. I know the minimal focal distance on the 70-200 several feet.

So the microscope pieces are attached to the front of this lens?

Pretty sure you can buy an adapter, that kinda looks like a lens cap with a hole and threads, to connect a microscope objective to a lens. Or just cut a hole into a lens cap to make your own. Not sure what the working distance will be, but would imagine that it drops a lot. With a diopter the working distance is 18 inches with that lens and a diopter wouldn't give you that much magnification -not even close.

Edit: Wanted to add that I can get more detail at 5x with an MP-E 65mm stopped down, and it would be less work (a single frame).


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Pigpen101
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Dec 19, 2017 14:39 |  #5

Dalantech wrote in post #18521520 (external link)
Pretty sure you can buy an adapter, that kinda looks like a lens cap with a hole and threads, to connect a microscope objective to a lens. Or just cut a hole into a lens cap to make your own. Not sure what the working distance will be, but would imagine that it drops a lot. With a diopter the working distance is 18 inches with that lens and a diopter wouldn't give you that much magnification -not even close.

Edit: Wanted to add that I can get more detail at 5x with an MP-E 65mm stopped down, and it would be less work (a single frame).

Thanks for the info. I have seen the diopter attachments. However, I've also seen enough results w/ the MP-E to know that I would go that route over the diopter.


Thanks again.

BTW your images are awesome!!




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Chris.R
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Post has been last edited 1 month ago by Chris.R. 2 edits done in total.
Dec 19, 2017 18:55 |  #6

@pigpen
That moth-face shot, field of view maybe under 2mm, would probably have used a 10x microscope objective, on the front of a 200mm lens.
You don't get the same resolution with a stopped-down camera lens, as you do when you use appropriate optics and focus-stack, because diffraction kills it.
But with the wide aperture higher resolution objective you get maybe 10 microns in focus, although, you can combine as many images as you like.
There are no magic lenses, the DOF depends on the aperture and magnification, only. The clever bit is to discover and use the combination which works best for your purpose. It only has to be sharp enough .
You wouldn't be able to make that particular image, or a lot of that photographer's others, with a single shot from an MP-E.
But the moth had to be dead, and not moving, to use focus stacking.
The MP-E's sharpest apertures at higher (4-5x) magnificaitons are wide open, you can stack with that too!




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Pigpen101
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Dec 20, 2017 16:09 |  #7

Chris.R wrote in post #18522171 (external link)
@pigpen
That moth-face shot, field of view maybe under 2mm, would probably have used a 10x microscope objective, on the front of a 200mm lens.
You don't get the same resolution with a stopped-down camera lens, as you do when you use appropriate optics and focus-stack, because diffraction kills it.
But with the wide aperture higher resolution objective you get maybe 10 microns in focus, although, you can combine as many images as you like.
There are no magic lenses, the DOF depends on the aperture and magnification, only. The clever bit is to discover and use the combination which works best for your purpose. It only has to be sharp enough .
You wouldn't be able to make that particular image, or a lot of that photographer's others, with a single shot from an MP-E.
But the moth had to be dead, and not moving, to use focus stacking.
The MP-E's sharpest apertures at higher (4-5x) magnificaitons are wide open, you can stack with that too!


Thank you, I appreciate the input. I have a 100mm F/2.8 macro that is need of a trip to Jersey for a repair, so I've been trying to focus stack (w/ Helicon Focus) with an odd setup while it's in limbo. The results I've gotten have ranged from terrible to "good enough for me". I started with my 85 F/1.8 and my trusty 55mm F/1.8 Mamiya Sekor reversed on the front. Since, I've gotten a set of Vello extension tubes and put those on the back of the 85MM..

This is BY FAR my best result.


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Chris.R
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Dec 20, 2017 16:23 |  #8

Lookin' good. :)
I had a Mamiya 1000DTL, once upon a time ..
You do tend to get better corners with a shortie on the front of a longer lens, than with the longer lens on an extension which puts it far from where it was designed to work.
There's a thread all about combos which you might find interesting, here : http://www.photomacrog​raphy.net/forum/viewto​pic.php?t=8336 (external link)




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Dalantech
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Dec 21, 2017 01:36 as a reply to Pigpen101's post |  #9

Your lighting is looking really good!


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Pigpen101
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Dec 21, 2017 16:24 |  #10

Chris.R wrote in post #18522795 (external link)
Lookin' good. :)
I had a Mamiya 1000DTL, once upon a time ..
You do tend to get better corners with a shortie on the front of a longer lens, than with the longer lens on an extension which puts it far from where it was designed to work.
There's a thread all about combos which you might find interesting, here : http://www.photomacrog​raphy.net/forum/viewto​pic.php?t=8336 (external link)

Thank you. For the compliment, and the link.




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Pigpen101
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Post has been edited 29 days ago by Pigpen101.
Dec 21, 2017 16:33 |  #11

Dalantech wrote in post #18523065 (external link)
Your lighting is looking really good!

Thank you.

Talk about a lot of trial & error! Ended up with 2 of my manual Yongnuo flashes, one on each side between the subject & focusing rail, a homemade snoot on each. Too hot, so I taped a piece of wax paper over the small openings on the snoots. Still too hot, so added folded pieces of wax paper under the plastic, built in diffusers on the flashes. The wings were probably the hardest to deal with. Finally happy with the setup. Thanks again.




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Dalantech
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Dec 22, 2017 01:50 as a reply to Pigpen101's post |  #12

Check out the Apparent Light Size (external link) article at Strobist. That one article solved a lot of my lighting issues. Also since you're using multiple light sources study portrait photography -plenty of tutorials out there.


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Pigpen101
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Post has been edited 28 days ago by Pigpen101.
Dec 22, 2017 16:15 |  #13

Dalantech wrote in post #18523853 (external link)
Check out the Apparent Light Size (external link) article at Strobist. That one article solved a lot of my lighting issues. Also since you're using multiple light sources study portrait photography -plenty of tutorials out there.

I will check that out, thank you.

Seems like a lot of good info there, is it free?




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Dalantech
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Dec 24, 2017 02:43 as a reply to Pigpen101's post |  #14

The entire site is free.


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Anyone tried this set-up??
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