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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Astronomy & Celestial
Thread started 27 Jan 2018 (Saturday) 19:40
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settings for supermoon timelapse

 
aladyforty
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Jan 27, 2018 19:40 |  #1

we have for the first time in 150 years, on one single night! – a blue moon, a red (blood) moon, and a supermoon. and a full lunar eclipse. 31st jan

my plan is to set up my 7DII to timelapse and Im wondering how I set up for the changing light, do I just set it to auto ISO or set everything manually, never done this before so welcome any help


5DIII 7DII Fuji X100 Fuji X10 17-40L 135L 70-200F4ISL Tamron 150-600
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CatchingUp
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Jan 27, 2018 21:35 |  #2

Where are you shooting from and what lens will you be using?


Tony
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aladyforty
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Post has been edited 24 days ago by aladyforty.
Jan 27, 2018 22:22 |  #3

CatchingUp wrote in post #18550577 (external link)
Where are you shooting from and what lens will you be using?

was thinking of using my 70-200 F4 or the Tamron 150-600. probably fron across a harbour


5DIII 7DII Fuji X100 Fuji X10 17-40L 135L 70-200F4ISL Tamron 150-600
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Inspeqtor
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Jan 28, 2018 00:08 |  #4

aladyforty wrote in post #18550480 (external link)
we have for the first time in 150 years, on one single night! – a blue moon, a red (blood) moon, and a supermoon. and a full lunar eclipse. 31st jan

my plan is to set up my 7DII to timelapse and Im wondering how I set up for the changing light, do I just set it to auto ISO or set everything manually, never done this before so welcome any help

Are you planning on putting your camera body on a standard tripod only, or do you also have a star tracker that will be able to follow the moon?

Using a star tracker is the only way that I know of to follow the moon.

If I am wrong I do trust someone will correct me on this info.


Charles
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aladyforty
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Jan 28, 2018 00:14 |  #5

Inspeqtor wrote in post #18550650 (external link)
Are you planning on putting your camera body on a standard tripod only, or do you also have a star tracker that will be able to follow the moon?

Using a star tracker is the only way that I know of to follow the moon.

If I am wrong I do trust someone will correct me on this info.


only a standard tripod


5DIII 7DII Fuji X100 Fuji X10 17-40L 135L 70-200F4ISL Tamron 150-600
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com​/photos/25426422@N00/ (external link)
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CatchingUp
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Jan 28, 2018 01:41 as a reply to aladyforty's post |  #6

Not sure what part of the country you’ll be shooting from but I’m in CDT zone (USA) and the eclipse will begin around 4:30-4:40 where I’m at. I plan on getting multiple phases before it sets about the same time the sun rises at 7:30’ish and it will just have reached full shadowed stage then.

If you are planning on stitching a video type sequence of the eclipse itself you may think of shooting in aperture priority mode to account for the changing brightness. Even at that the range changes quite a bit over the course of the eclipse.

You might be better off with the 70-200 in this case. On the other hand if you want to make a composite with maybe a dozen images at various stages of use the bigger lens.

I’m sure there are multiple options that could be offered here


Tony
I use Canon gear...have several bodies and lenses and am quite pleased with them.

"A person's gift will make room for itself."

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Benitoite
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Post has been last edited 20 days ago by Benitoite. 3 edits done in total.
Jan 31, 2018 02:42 |  #7

Let's say the full moon has an apparent magnitude of -12.50 (0.3 lux), and the theoretical max eclipse @ +4 magnitude (5 * 10^-8 lux)
That's 16.5 stellar magnitudes difference, with a range of say -3 Exposure Values to -25.5 Exposure Values = 22 1/2 stops
On my camera I can get 7 of those stops by changing from ISO 100 to 12800, 4 more by opening up from f/11 to f/2.8, and four more by going from shutter 1/60 to 1/4
So If I start the full moon fully exposed at f/11, 1/60", ISO 100, I will be at f/2.8, 1/4", ISO 12800, and only be 7.5 stops underexposed at mid-eclipse. Those are shutters which might make sense for my 300mm lens. With a wider angle lens (how you'd probably photograph the lapse) you can open the shutter even longer.

This morning's eclipse from my location had a Danjon lunar luminosity of L=3 (brick-red with yellow rim), with L=0 being a perfectly near-invisible eclipsed moon. I didn't need the last ~5 stops of exposure boost.




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aladyforty
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Jan 31, 2018 09:53 |  #8

thanks for all the info, we had a lot of cloud and I only got one shot, did not do the time-lapse but maybe next time


5DIII 7DII Fuji X100 Fuji X10 17-40L 135L 70-200F4ISL Tamron 150-600
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com​/photos/25426422@N00/ (external link)
Birding page (archives cant add to them, lost password) https://www.flickr.com​/photos/59111660@N08/ (external link)

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