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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting
Thread started 06 Feb 2018 (Tuesday) 06:23
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Real Backdrops, screen or digital?

 
Antarion
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Post has been edited 14 days ago by Antarion.
Feb 06, 2018 06:23 |  #1

Hey folks,

jsut a quick question. I wanna do some Action Figure photography. I'm about to buy some cheap vinly backdrops via ebay to do some different Scenes. I wonder if it is better to just buy...like a black, White and a green one and then doing digital Background on them?

Problem with most Vinyl Background is, that they can get stale very fast. So you buy a backdrop, do some shots and then you dont want to use that Background ever again...

On the other Hand, digital is probably much more work and might still look pretty "shopped" or outright ugly.


I've seen some people using big flat screens and using pictures on there as a background...sounds awesome in theory, but I don't know about the quality of this.


Any experiences or recommendations?
Thanks :)




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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Post has been edited 14 days ago by Left Handed Brisket.
Feb 06, 2018 07:08 |  #2

chroma green is proven to work well with most matte/flat surfaces. However, with reflective subjects, they can pick up the green on the surface of the subject.

I have extensively used the technique outlined by Rico Tudor in this thread: http://photography-on-the.net .../showthread.php?t=1​467237

I not only suspend items, but have also placed them on a large piece of glass and used the same technique. The problem with glass is picking up the subject's reflection in the dark frame. A polarizer fixes this without an impact to the subject most of the time.

dmward also outlines a technique in that thread that uses just one exposure. It works well too.

The key to both of those methods (and chroma key) is to have the background far enough back that it doesn't impact the light falling on the subject.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Formerly he's gone before apostrophe-gate | Not in gear database: Canon 70-210 3.5-4.5, Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

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TeamSpeed
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Post has been last edited 14 days ago by TeamSpeed. 2 edits done in total.
Feb 06, 2018 07:27 |  #3

As has been stated, put some distance between the subject and chroma screen, and also try to light up the backdrop evenly. Have 2 - 3 different keyed backdrops so that you can use the one that conflicts least with the subject and their clothing.

Action figures shouldn't be too difficult with this setup and I could definitely see using digital backdrops for a variety of "in the distance blurred" backgrounds for those. Post examples when you have some!


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bigVinnie
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Feb 07, 2018 10:52 |  #4

Your other option is to use a 2 shot mask.

Google Hensel freemask or Godox alt mask on youtube.

Yongnuo also has the feature in it's YN-E3-RT trigger.

Essentially you take two shots, first lights subject or with Yongnuo all lights fire. Second shot only background lights fire. The idea is to create an all white background with subject in shadow. That way you can mask using the white and not have any white on the subject interfere with the mask. Works with any color actually, but white is pretty standard.

Since your subject doesn't move you don't really need to automate but makes it nicer.


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Wilt
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Post has been edited 13 days ago by Wilt.
Feb 07, 2018 11:08 |  #5

bigVinnie wrote in post #18558513 (external link)
Your other option is to use a 2 shot mask.

...Since your subject doesn't move you don't really need to automate but makes it nicer.

Any animate subject cannot possibly be so immobile that their position is perfectly mimiced between the two shots...our bodies move slightly in space simply due to breathing!


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RDKirk
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Feb 07, 2018 13:04 |  #6

Green screen is needed for video--not needed for still photography. Use gray.




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Real Backdrops, screen or digital?
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