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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 03 Feb 2018 (Saturday) 11:03
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How many lumens do i need

 
bartc
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Feb 03, 2018 11:03 |  #1

K so I am setting up a larger automotive studio and I need to setup my lightbank 12x30ft to be able to shoot some video..
currently its powered by 5 800ws strobes.. I plan to rig it with led strip lights... I am trying to figure how many lumens I need to aim for my current projected lumens with the leds I plan to use will be 165000lumens..
I am having a hard time finding calculators to give me rough equivalent numbers of lumens to watt/seconds... I understand there isn't a exact conversion for this.. I just need some guidance on how to figure lumens I'll need..
Potentially I'd like to be able shoot still with the continuous lighting too which I am typically shooting at 1/200 f5.6 to f8 and iso 200 to 400


-Bart
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mmmfotografie
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Feb 03, 2018 11:40 |  #2

For still time is on your hand. So put the camera on the tripod and keep your shutter open longer.




  
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Wilt
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Post edited 3 months ago by Wilt.
     
Feb 03, 2018 11:42 |  #3

According to one web source...

  • Lumen: by definition there are 683 lumens per watt of radiant power at a wavelength of 555 nm
  • Luminous intensity: the number of lumens produced per unit solid angle (in a given direction) by a point source of light. One lumen per steradian is one candela.
  • Candela:unit of luminous intensity; one lumen per steradian
  • Luminance: the number of candelas per unit surface area of an extended source. Here, 'surface area' refers to the projected area of the true surface, along the viewing direction.



Another web source says " one foot-candle is equal to one lumen per square foot or approximately 10.764 lux"

My Minolta meter provided a table which says EV0 = 0.31 footcandles. So measuring with the incident meter the EV value (at ISO 100) one can consult the table for how many footcandles and then convert to lumens.

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bartc
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Feb 03, 2018 14:03 |  #4

mmmfotografie wrote in post #18555509 (external link)
For still time is on your hand. So put the camera on the tripod and keep your shutter open longer.

On thing is like to avoid since the new location will allow me to shoot from high angles that will be a pita to try shooting off a tripod since it would have to be mounted to a tall ladder with me on it... shake will occur


-Bart
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Feb 08, 2018 10:56 as a reply to  @ bartc's post |  #5

Mount the camera to the ladder and use a remote shutter release ... you will never* be able to reproduce the power of the 5 strobes with LEDs.

* with reasonable effort and cost**

** this is just a somewhat reasonable guess, maybe you have thousands of dollars to spend on LED lights, I don't know


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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bartc
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Feb 08, 2018 19:49 |  #6

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #18559343 (external link)
Mount the camera to the ladder and use a remote shutter release ... you will never* be able to reproduce the power of the 5 strobes with LEDs.

* with reasonable effort and cost**

** this is just a somewhat reasonable guess, maybe you have thousands of dollars to spend on LED lights, I don't know

The continuous will be setup for video so typically 1/40 to 1/60 shutter so not far off what I need... right now the 165000lumens will cost me a bit over $400 so not a huge investment...


-Bart
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Phil ­ V
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Feb 09, 2018 01:09 |  #7

bartc wrote in post #18559643 (external link)
The continuous will be setup for video so typically 1/40 to 1/60 shutter so not far off what I need... right now the 165000lumens will cost me a bit over $400 so not a huge investment...

They’ll be great so long as you’re not photographing red/orange/purple cars.


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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Post edited 3 months ago by Left Handed Brisket. (2 edits in all)
     
Feb 09, 2018 06:06 as a reply to  @ bartc's post |  #8

Were you cutting the power of the strobes?

What kind of modifiers were you using? And how do they compare to what the LEDs will be housed in?

Can you link to what you plan to buy? I am curious about this stuff and like to try to keep up with what's going on.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Feb 09, 2018 06:09 |  #9

Phil V wrote in post #18559772 (external link)
They’ll be great so long as you’re not photographing red/orange/purple cars.

This an issue too.

The only LED lights that I have found (for my home) that I can stand looking at are Kitchler brand. Others are clearly missing parts of the spectrum.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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SereneSpeed
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Feb 09, 2018 10:34 |  #10

Why LED? Standard (Tungsten) bulbs should do the job, just fine, for less money. I think you posted photos of your softbox, and I am imagining a fan one either end. Air in and air out, for cooling. I often use the modelling lights on my strobes, inside my softboxes as continuous light. For the video work I've done, I found higher ISO's to be very forgiving. Video is never going to be as sharp as a photo, so having slightly less depth-of-field (more light on the sensor) and shooting at 1/50th, seems to go a long way for me.

You may be trying to do something that requires more light than is practical with traditional bulbs, but if not, think about it. I always fall back to them over LEDs, because unless you spend a small fortune, the colour just isn't there with the LED's that are affordable.


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Tom ­ Reichner
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Feb 09, 2018 11:12 |  #11

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #18559858 (external link)
Were you cutter my the pose of the strobes?

I have read this and re-read it ...... then re-read it again, and I still can't understand what you are asking. . Is it "just me"? . Or, is there some wording that got mixed up a bit?


.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Feb 09, 2018 11:44 |  #12

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18560068 (external link)
I have read this and re-read it ...... then re-read it again, and I still can't understand what you are asking. . Is it "just me"? . Or, is there some wording that got mixed up a bit?

.

lol, auto correct on my phone.

now edited.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Feb 09, 2018 12:10 as a reply to  @ bartc's post |  #13

A local guy I know uses one of these to get up high without too much shake. While he tends to hand hold most of his work I see no reason why it can't be modified with a camera mount attached to a rail. These come in a variety of heights, according to your needs. -- Personally I echo other's opinions about LEDs. I feel strobes would offer you more flexibility than LEDs. I have another friend who swears by HMI lights. They're too hot for my taste and probably not what you're looking for but something to consider.


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bartc
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Post edited 3 months ago by bartc.
     
Feb 09, 2018 20:05 |  #14

The continuous lights will be 90% for video I will have my strobes mounted all the time.... but I want to be able to use it too... I have a company I'm working with willing to invest in leds.. hence why I'm trying to make this work


-Bart
5D mk3 gripped | 7D gripped |EF 28-70mm F2.8L | EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS | Tokina 11-16 f2.8 | Sigma 50mm f1.4 | 3x AlienBees B1600 | 2x AlienBees B800 | Yongnuo 568ex X2 | Sigma 530dg Super | rf-622c x4 | Bunch of light modifiers | canon sx1is

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Tom ­ Reichner
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Feb 10, 2018 09:26 |  #15

bartc wrote in post #18560353 (external link)
. . . willing to incest . . .

.
That's pretty brutal stuff.:oops:


.
.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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How many lumens do i need
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