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Canon XTI - Picture of Marching Band

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Thread started 18 Sep 2008 (Thursday) 12:05   
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dschae1
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Dave,
For indoor soccer, they may have Tungsten or Flourescent bulbs for lighting. You might want to test your White Balance settings as well to get the colors right. Or if you are shooting in raw, it does not matter, you can fix that in your post processing in lightroom.

If possible, I prefer to get it right in the camera first over fixing it later. AWB in these camera is amazingly accurate as a default setting too, but like I said, if you know it's tungsten, then shoot for it.

DON'T FORGET TO RESET IT BACK AFTER THE EVENT!

lol, Yes, I'm screaming as I have made that mistake and then got "blue" tinted pictures the next time I used the camera.

Post #16, Nov 01, 2008 09:59:18




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rudvadia
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Thank you everyone for their feedback and help. I have made some changes and pictures are getting better but not the best. Please check out the school site (www.chhsband.orgexternal link) and let know your suggestion. I have been using the bracketing and that is helping me. Sometimes I have to increase the ISO to 800 to get lower shutter speed but the pictures are grainer. I have the following equipment and thinking of getting a zoom lens and need your opinion. I am looking into Canon 70-200 f/4 ($600) - this lens have an excellent review but not sure how it will perform at night at high school football game/marching band. My other option is Tamron 70-200 f/2.8($670) the review is litter lower then canon - f/4. Also some people indicated on Amazon that it takes time to focus and sometime AF is not accurate.
BTW , I am volunteer parent photographer , so I don't want to spend more then $700


Equipment:
1. Camera - Canon EOS XTi
2. Lens - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
- Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom
3. Flash - Canon 430EX Speedlite

Post #17, Nov 12, 2008 19:00:04 as a reply to post 6602890




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penodr
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dschae1 wrote in post #6602890external link
For the original poster,
I have another suggestion. During the first half, go to your normal spot where you shoot the band (for me it is right on the sideline, and I move around up and down the sideline). Take pictures of the football team during their plays and review your shots and the settings you chose. Experiment before the band takes the field. You can always delete the images unless you get some keepers that could go to the folks in charge of the yearbook.

The idea is to practice when it doesn't count. Same idea for indoor soccer, show up early and take pictures of your team's practice or the prior game.

Dave,
Great idea, but you have it backwards I’m afraid. You need to "under" expose the photo's to get faster shutter speeds. I just tried it out on my camera in my office (with poor indoor light). Set your camera on your desk so it is stationary and use AV mode ISO 800 and open the lens to the bigest aperture (smallest number) your lens will go (If it’s a variable zoom lens, go to the widest zoom setting as well) Don’t change any of these settings or move the camera!

at +-0 exposure bias. I got 1/30 shutter speed
at +1 exposure bias, I got 1/15 shutter speed (slower by 1/2)
at +2 exposure bias, I got 1/8 shutter speed (again slower by 1/2)

so, I went the other way.

at -1 exposure bias, I got 1/60 shutter speed (faster by 1/2)
at -2 exposure bias, I got 1/125 shutter speed (again faster by 1/2)

At ISO 1600, everything results the same, but at 1/2 faster again. So at -1 exposure, I get 1/125, same as going -2 at ISO 800. I took a picture on my desk at both settings (once again, the camera was not moved) The ISO 1600 & -1 shot was a better image than the ISO 800 & -2.

So, reducing exposure will increase shutter speed, but make your images darker, which you then can restore in Lightroom or any decent editor. I have not tried this when it counts on my 40D yet, but on my XTi, I used -1/3 to -2/3 stop on cloudy days shooting Lacrosse. I was trying to get 1/1000 to 1/2000 shutter speed to freeze the ball in the net or freeze the running players. Anything from -1 stop on and too many of the images became hard to rescue. Go early and practice, maybe even the day before so you can get back to the computer and test your settings and results in the editing software.

"More on Page #2"

You are 100% correct, I calculated the number of stops and then promptly counted the wrong way. LOL . Thanks for the tips and help!

Dave

Post #18, Nov 12, 2008 20:11:26


My Gear: Canon 50D with grip, XTi with grip and kit lens, Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L, Canon 70-200mm F2.8 IS II USM, Canon 50mm f/1.8 II, Canon 100mm F 2.8 IS USM

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rudvadia
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Dave,

how do you like Canon 70-200 F4 L, especially in low light without flash?

ramesh.

Post #19, Nov 13, 2008 11:59:13




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dschae1
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David here...I've owned that lens and liked it a lot for it's sharpness and overall image quality. However, it is F4, and that is 1/2 the light to the sensor as an F2.8 lens, so in low light situations, you would have to double the ISO to get the same shutter speed. of course, using a higher ISO will cause more digital noise in the image.

Bottom line, for low light, I prefer F2.8 over F4.

Post #20, Nov 13, 2008 12:03:09




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penodr
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dschae1 wrote in post #6679422external link
David here...I've owned that lens and liked it a lot for it's sharpness and overall image quality. However, it is F4, and that is 1/2 the light to the sensor as an F2.8 lens, so in low light situations, you would have to double the ISO to get the same shutter speed. of course, using a higher ISO will cause more digital noise in the image.

Bottom line, for low light, I prefer F2.8 over F4.

I know, the problem I have is I can't justify the cost of a 300mm 2.8. It's just not an option. The 300mm f4 is an option, and since some noise is better than being broke I will more than likely go with that option.

Dave

Post #21, Nov 13, 2008 12:23:52


My Gear: Canon 50D with grip, XTi with grip and kit lens, Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L, Canon 70-200mm F2.8 IS II USM, Canon 50mm f/1.8 II, Canon 100mm F 2.8 IS USM

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penodr
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rudvadia wrote in post #6679395external link
Dave,

how do you like Canon 70-200 F4 L, especially in low light without flash?

ramesh.

I love my 70-200 F4 L. I have not used it much in low light but would imagine that the shutter speed will drop quickly. I will be trying to shoot indoor soccer this year with it , but since the indoor soccer field is so small I will more than likely be using my 50 f1.8 so I can get a faster shutter speed.

Dave

Post #22, Nov 13, 2008 12:31:50


My Gear: Canon 50D with grip, XTi with grip and kit lens, Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L, Canon 70-200mm F2.8 IS II USM, Canon 50mm f/1.8 II, Canon 100mm F 2.8 IS USM

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dschae1
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Ramesh,
I'm just wondering if you bought a lens and how you like it? I'm in the middle of marching season and having a blast getting photos of my daughters new band this year.

My new website this year (there are two of us shooting and sharing space)
http://planoband.smugm​ug.com/external link

Post #23, Sep 20, 2009 10:43:27




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Three10
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Rudvadia - first off I want to say - complete HATS OFF to you for doing this for the band!!! I have been a band booster officer for more than 8 years, and I can tell you, your work is appreciated!

I'm a graphic designer - not a photographer and my son was a senior last year, when I purchased my first DSLR camera (an xti). I paired that up with the 70-200 f4 and I really liked it. Night time images where still hard to get, in my opinion, but I was (and am) still learning.

Another thing you might try is just lightening some of your images in Photoshop or an image editor, work with your adjustment layers, lighten slightly and then pop the curves.

Oh my goodness - here I have gone on and on and realized this is a year old post! LOL So we were learning at the same time - cool! lol How are you doing this year? Would love to see from this season!

Post #24, Sep 25, 2009 17:15:16


Canon 6d | 24-105 |50mm/1.8 | 420ex

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