Pixel King high sync usage with studio strobes?

[ile]

Originally Posted by bobbyz

PC socket that is why 580ex couldn't do anything. With mini/flex or these pixel kings you have eTTL connection not just the on/off of pc sync port.

I might have asked this before but what you trying to shoot that you need to use these higher ss.

I'd like to try something like this: http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...80014912_n.jpg
But also when shooting interior details with sun in frame I'd like to have hss option available

[bobbyz]

Originally Posted by ile

I'd like to try something like this: http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...80014912_n.jpg
But also when shooting interior details with sun in frame I'd like to have hss option available

First one you can do easily with strobe with power. No need for tricks IMHO.

2nd one, merge shots. Why HSS? All these tricks don't give even exposure so lot more noticable if shooting interiors. Trust me, been there, done that.

[ile]

Originally Posted by bobbyz

First one you can do easily with strobe with power. No need for tricks IMHO.

2nd one, merge shots. Why HSS? All these tricks don't give even exposure so lot more noticable if shooting interiors. Trust me, been there, done that.

Ok, but if I want to do a photo of a detail (maybe macro shot) at wide aperture (f2.8) on a bright sunny day than I don't think 1/200 will work

[bobbyz]

Originally Posted by ile

Ok, but if I want to do a photo of a detail (maybe macro shot) at wide aperture (f2.8) on a bright sunny day than I don't think 1/200 will work

Here:

f2.8


Just use ND filter, simple.

[mtimber]

Originally Posted by bobbyz

Here:

f2.8


Just use ND filter, simple.

ND Filter and colorchecker passport would about fix it wouldn't it?

[PhotographersWorldWide]

Originally Posted by aliengin

Darken the environment light is one reason

Under what circumstances/equipment does shooting at 1/3000s darken the environment?

Greater flash power than ambient - yes. But just increasing the shutter speed to 1/3000s and obtaining sync wouldn't darken the environment, not without a higher sync leaf shutter or some peak hypersync method.

[Dwight Roberts]

Originally Posted by dedsen

All this is well and good, but the discussion is using studio strobes above the camera sync speed. It is a known fact that HSS works with Canon flashes with that feature.

Studio lights synch as they do and you can't change that. If you could, I'm sure it would be out of the original intent and capabilities and would ultimately burn out

[Dwight Roberts]

You need to research how HSS works ELECTRONICALLY with a flash with the technology built in. A Vivitar 283/285 won't do it because it's old technology. It goes to show that a sensor attached to your camera can no better make the flash do new things than I can make my grandmother understand the internet or grow taller. It won't make my Profoto monolights sync any higher because it doesn't have the ability.

[bobbyz]

Originally Posted by Dwight Roberts

Hi Bobby,
I JUST joined this forum a few minutes ago. I was interested in the Pixel King HSS because my Canon IR is too limited in it's range and I'm not about to buy yet ANOTHER speedlight to get their new radio doo-hickey to make my life easier.
The reason for the HSS for me is, as a wedding photographer, I wind up shooting in the hot sunshine w/o a cloud to hide under and NASTY contrast. In order to gain control of the situation, a very high shutter speed is needed to control the background AND main subject exposure. The HSS actually makes the flash put out high-speed pulses making a desirable exposure happen and makes the old 1/500 sync from a Blad look silly.

Cheers!,
Dwight

Dwight, When you put that speedlite in HSS mode it also looses 2 stops of power. So not sure what you get by putting it in HSS mode. If I was using speedlites or strobes with longer flash duration I would look at HyperSync with crop cameras. With FF I had not much luck using HyperSync.

BTW -OP talking studio strobes not speedlites.

Here shooting in the sun at 1/160 sec only, I don't see need for 1/2000. I am using 3 stop ND filter on my lens. I could have made the bg much darker if I had more flash power.

[PhotographersWorldWide]

Originally Posted by Dwight Roberts

Studio lights synch as they do and you can't change that. If you could, I'm sure it would be out of the original intent and capabilities and would ultimately burn out

Theres no change in the use of the flash - it just flashes - as its intended to do. All thats changed is the camera shutter sync position.

[PhotographersWorldWide]

Originally Posted by Dwight Roberts

You need to research how HSS works ELECTRONICALLY with a flash with the technology built in. A Vivitar 283/285 won't do it because it's old technology. It goes to show that a sensor attached to your camera can no better make the flash do new things than I can make my grandmother understand the internet or grow taller. It won't make my Profoto monolights sync any higher because it doesn't have the ability.

Depends on your monolights. Some Profoto's perform really well because of their long flash duration. Long duration flash units don't need to pulse as long as you time the sync correctly. Metz 45's are old technology, these perform brilliantly.

[dedsen]

Originally Posted by Dwight Roberts

Studio lights synch as they do and you can't change that. If you could, I'm sure it would be out of the original intent and capabilities and would ultimately burn out

Dwight, myself and everyone but you understand that this discussion is about studio strobes and not hotshoe flashes. I appreciate your effort to school me on HSS, but I understand it very well. It just does not pertain to the subject here.
The OP wants to "cheat the system" and get faster shutter speeds than the max sync speed of the camera. A few of the new triggers will allow you to do that to a certain extent. It is mostly dependent on the burn duration of the strobe.

[CliveyBoy]

Dale, I agree with you.

The O/P needs to realise that HSS is not commonly available on studio strobes. The alternative technique employed by Pixel Kings (among others) is a form of hypersync (Hypersync is a registered Pocket Wizard trademark).

Hypersync depends on the signal produced by the camera which says that it is about to open the shutter. This signal is available to a camera-mounted device when the camera thinks that the device is in HSS mode. The mounted device typically has a means of delaying the firing of a remote flash until nearer the estimated time when the first curtain starts to open. From then to the time when the shutter is completely closed, the studio strobe needs to keep burning at a reasonably strong peak level. (There is also a tail-burn technique.)

The Hensel of the O/P may have too short a burn time to last for 1/320th shutter, or even for 1/1000th without significant shadow. The first curtain takes about 2 milliseconds to travel, so the flash should burn reasonably evenly for at least that time. At 1/8000th, the second curtain completes its close almost immediately after the first curtain reaches fully open, so a 2ms burn would work. The longer the exposure, the worse the tail-end shadow will become.

I take it that there is no-one with that model Hensel using Pixel Kings currently reading this forum. Hence all the conjecture.