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Microadjust for Lenses on a 7D, the right way to do it ?

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Thread started 11 Mar 2011 (Friday) 07:56   
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ChewieT
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Been playing around with the microadjust on my 7D and looking at the various charts that you can get online. Some you need to use at a 45 degree angle, whereas other say not to do this you must use a chart at the same focal plane as the lens. Then there are other that say, dont mess with microadjust at all just accept your lenses as they are.

Now I am not saying that there is anything wrong with my lenses, but I am pretty anal when it comes to my kit and I would just like to know that if I get a soft image, that its my incompetence rather then my equipment :)

So from what I have read I am thinking that the best way to microadjust is using some sort of chart in the same focal plane as the lens, at a distance of 50x the focal length. This can be done at the wide and long ends of a zoom lens but the MA might be different for each. It is usual to set it correct for the long end.

Take 3 shots on a tripod using a remote and mirror lockup at 0MA +5MA and -5MA, compare the images on a PC screen and see which is sharpest, from this deduce what the correct MA for your lens is.

Have I got anything wrong here, also when it comes to 50x the focal length do I also need to multiply this by 1.6 because of thre crop sensor.

Also at what point do you say, thats too much adjustment and decide that the lens needs calibrating. My lenses are less than 1 year old and if this is the case I would obviously want it done wthin warranty.

Thanks
Craig

Post #1, Mar 11, 2011 07:56:11


Gripped Canon 7D | Gripped Canon 50D | EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS MkII | EF 24-70mm f/2.8L | EF 135mm f/2.0L | EF 24mm f/1.4L II | EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM | EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS | EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS Lens | 2 x 580EX Mk II | Manfrotto 055CXPRO3 | Manfrotto ball head Midi 498RC2 | Lowepro Flipside 400AW
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ChewieT
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Oh then theres this method too
http://www.birdphotogr​aphers.net ...AF-microadjustment-tricksexternal link

Post #2, Mar 11, 2011 08:03:08


Gripped Canon 7D | Gripped Canon 50D | EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS MkII | EF 24-70mm f/2.8L | EF 135mm f/2.0L | EF 24mm f/1.4L II | EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM | EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS | EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS Lens | 2 x 580EX Mk II | Manfrotto 055CXPRO3 | Manfrotto ball head Midi 498RC2 | Lowepro Flipside 400AW
http://www.tuckshots.c​o.ukexternal link

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EL_PIC
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If you do it 10 times at differ FL, light, contrast levels, F stops, distances, etc ...
you will get 10 differ results.
Lenes are to work sharp out of the box.
Good Luk

MA was the brainchild of Canon Marketing when they had all those Mark III camera focus problems -
it put the burden of sloppy loppy on naive and over zealous gearheads.
If it don't work from the manufacturer send it back, get replacement, get your bucks back.

Post #3, Mar 11, 2011 08:08:37


EL_PIC - RIT BS Photo '78 - Photomask Engineering Mgr
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ChewieT
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I understand that, but if you have a lens with a tendency to either BF or FF in all circumstances then surely MA is worth is. Making an adjustment could bring the focus closer to where it should be for all focal lengths.

Post #4, Mar 11, 2011 08:18:17


Gripped Canon 7D | Gripped Canon 50D | EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS MkII | EF 24-70mm f/2.8L | EF 135mm f/2.0L | EF 24mm f/1.4L II | EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM | EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS | EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS Lens | 2 x 580EX Mk II | Manfrotto 055CXPRO3 | Manfrotto ball head Midi 498RC2 | Lowepro Flipside 400AW
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Yno
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EL_PIC wrote in post #12000577external link
If you do it 10 times at differ FL, light, contrast levels, F stops, distances, etc ...
you will get 10 differ results.
Lenes are to work sharp out of the box.
Good Luk

Cars work fine off the lot. I never need a tuneup. :rolleyes:

Of my five lenses, the 70-200 2.8 IS front focused on my 40D. After I did a micro adjust on my 7D, it is perfect at all focal lengths. If MA was never needed, why would the camera manufacturers include it?

Post #5, Mar 11, 2011 08:24:21


I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.
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KaBlookie
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I'm of the opinion that instead of using charts and all sorts of esoteric testing procedures, go out and shoot what you normally shoot. Have the camera focus on a point and see if it focuses in front of or behind what you specified. Then you just make adjustments and shoot some more.

The whole point of those charts is so you can easily quantify any adjustments that need to be made, but sometimes that highly controlled environment is so far from what you normally shoot in the real world, that it may not be worth the time/effort/money (if you buy something) and may not even help you.

Post #6, Mar 11, 2011 10:13:53


7D - XTi - Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 - Canon 50mm f/1.8II - SMC Takumar 50mm f/1.4 - Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L - Lensbaby 2.0 - Canon 430EX-II - CBS flash trigger

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TeamSpeed
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I sell a $15 laminated one in my signature, but if you click that link, there is a free version you print and fold that might do the trick. It seems to work for many here.

A larger version #2 is in the works that would work for telephotos.

Post #7, Mar 11, 2011 10:40:42


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hollis_f
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By far the fastest and easiest method and 100% accurate (well, as accurate as one can hope for). I use one of these test chartsexternal link for the target.

Post #8, Mar 12, 2011 06:59:06


Frank Hollis - Retired mass spectroscopist
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