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need help with indoor strobe work

FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting
Thread started 04 Apr 2012 (Wednesday) 10:46   
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MRLSeries
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what to do?

Tonight we had a party at our house. I shot the images on f/5.6 ISO100 1/250 with the 580exmk2 bouncing off white ceiling.

The images look ok, but i have to ask. From what I understand having read material on flash photography, I am under the impression that I should start in Av mode and get my exposure for ambient light, then add flash to fill in the shadows. The issue is that when I exposed for ambient light with ISO100 and f/5.6 the meter is telling to set shutter at nearly a full second. I understand that , sure I could bump my ISO up to get the correct shutter speed but I dont want noise, I want my images clean. So in the end i set the top mentioned settings with the dslr in M and speedlite set to M on 1/2 power and the images are clean but lack the tungsten ambient light of the room and more so have a fresh white light feel and look to them. They are ok but should I be doing this differently?

When I took the images, obviously my meter is telling me I am way under exposed hence the 1/250 shutter, so is it normal to have the camera tell you your under un be known to it you flash is going to cover the lighting side of the equation?

Lazza

Post #1, Apr 04, 2012 10:46:10




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hawk911
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shutter controls ambient light, and aperture the flash component of the exposure. You have to remember the sync speed if you decide to shoot in M mode. You didn't say what camera body you used, just the flash unit.

1/200 or even a little slower to 1/100 should have been fine, at iso 100. BUT... the aperture depends on how fast the lens is. You might need F2.8 to get a proper exposure, or bump the iso to 400 to compensate. Hard to say with no photo to look at, and without being in the room with you

Post #2, Apr 04, 2012 10:53:54


HAWK Photography Galleryexternal link FB Fan pageexternal link|_My gear: 5d3, 70D & 40D (all gripped), 580exII, 550ex, Canon 24-70 L & 85 f1.8, 50mm f1.4; Tamron 70-200 SP Di VC, Canon 18-55, Sigma 1.4xtc; Elinchrom Whore, Skyport triggers, Speedotron BD and Kacey Grid, Vagabond minis

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Curtis ­ N
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MRLSeries wrote in post #14208464external link
sure I could bump my ISO up to get the correct shutter speed but I dont want noise, I want my images clean.

I'm going to be blunt with you. Brace yourself.

GET OVER IT!

Crank up that ISO and make pictures!

If you insist on using ISO 100, you will need a tremendous amount of light to photograph human subjects with reasonable aperture and reasonable shutter speed. Direct hotshoe flash can provide this much light at close range, but the pictures will look like... well, direct flash. That's not a good thing.

With your ISO in the 400-800 range, you can bounce the flash and get very pleasing results. For a more detailed guide on bounced flash, click below.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=177622

Post #3, Apr 04, 2012 11:00:42


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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Flash Photography 101 | The EOS Flash Bible external link| Techniques for Better On-Camera Flashexternal link | How to Use Flash Outdoors| Excel-based DOF Calculatorexternal link

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dedsen
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There is software to fix noise, you CAN'T fix blurry.

Post #4, Apr 04, 2012 12:13:44



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hawk911
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again, no camera mentioned, so chances are even at iso 400 or 640 there's no appreciable noise. Granted, it might not be as crystal as a shot taken at iso 100, but it's not going to be film days iso 3200 grainy

Post #5, Apr 04, 2012 12:41:10


HAWK Photography Galleryexternal link FB Fan pageexternal link|_My gear: 5d3, 70D & 40D (all gripped), 580exII, 550ex, Canon 24-70 L & 85 f1.8, 50mm f1.4; Tamron 70-200 SP Di VC, Canon 18-55, Sigma 1.4xtc; Elinchrom Whore, Skyport triggers, Speedotron BD and Kacey Grid, Vagabond minis

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HughR
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When shooting indoors, I generally use M for the camera mode and ETTL for my flash, which is either bounced or used wirelessly off camera. This generally removes the ambient, which is what I generally prefer indoors. If you want ambient as well, then as stated, you will have to increase your ISO. On the 60D, ISO 800 or 1600 produces excellent images, and 3200 or 6400 are also usable if necessary.

Post #6, Apr 04, 2012 13:33:15


Hugh
Canon 60D, Original Digital Rebel (2003)
EFS 15-85mm IS USM, EF 70-300mm IS USM, Tokina 11-16mm
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Zansho
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Curtis N wrote in post #14208527external link
I'm going to be blunt with you. Brace yourself.

GET OVER IT!

Crank up that ISO and make pictures!

If you insist on using ISO 100, you will need a tremendous amount of light to photograph human subjects with reasonable aperture and reasonable shutter speed. Direct hotshoe flash can provide this much light at close range, but the pictures will look like... well, direct flash. That's not a good thing.

With your ISO in the 400-800 range, you can bounce the flash and get very pleasing results. For a more detailed guide on bounced flash, click below.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=177622



Curtis wins. If you think noise in digital is bad, you should give ISO 1600 film (or even 800) a try. We have come a long way in noise in digital images. Don't be afraid to bump the ISO higher if needed be to get the shot you want.

Post #7, Apr 04, 2012 14:01:29


www.innerlightcreation​s.comexternal link - Gear? The stuff I have, does everything I need, and I don't worry about the latest and the greatest anymore - I worry about getting the best images I can.

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MRLSeries
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thanks for the reply,

body is a 60D

Post #8, Apr 04, 2012 16:54:12




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hawk911
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then you should be fine at iso 800. I'm not sure where it starts to get really bad on that model, but iso 800 should give you plenty of latitude

Post #9, Apr 04, 2012 18:30:43


HAWK Photography Galleryexternal link FB Fan pageexternal link|_My gear: 5d3, 70D & 40D (all gripped), 580exII, 550ex, Canon 24-70 L & 85 f1.8, 50mm f1.4; Tamron 70-200 SP Di VC, Canon 18-55, Sigma 1.4xtc; Elinchrom Whore, Skyport triggers, Speedotron BD and Kacey Grid, Vagabond minis

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oldvultureface
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Zansho wrote in post #14209370external link
Curtis wins.

You bet.

If you want more "tungsten ambiance", try the cloudy white balance setting. More? Try shade. Both of those settings will warm your flash's output.

Post #10, Apr 04, 2012 19:59:25


OVF

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hawk911
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the flash output won't change color temps just by picking a different WB setting. You need a CTO filter to change the flash color temp. You won't get a decent WB with mixed lighting like those two sources if both contribute to the overall image.
The WB setting affects the overall image WB, not the flash output.

Post #11, Apr 05, 2012 07:13:59


HAWK Photography Galleryexternal link FB Fan pageexternal link|_My gear: 5d3, 70D & 40D (all gripped), 580exII, 550ex, Canon 24-70 L & 85 f1.8, 50mm f1.4; Tamron 70-200 SP Di VC, Canon 18-55, Sigma 1.4xtc; Elinchrom Whore, Skyport triggers, Speedotron BD and Kacey Grid, Vagabond minis

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oldvultureface
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oldvultureface wrote in post #14211008external link
Both of those settings will warm your flash's output.

hawk911 wrote in post #14213487external link
The WB setting affects the overall image WB, not the flash output.

My statement was poorly worded. :oops:

Auto WB, cloudy, shade, no gel on flash.

IMAGE: http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww357/oldvultureface/POTN/IMG_0839auto.jpg
;
IMAGE: http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww357/oldvultureface/POTN/IMG_0840cloudy.jpg
;
IMAGE: http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww357/oldvultureface/POTN/IMG_0841shade.jpg

Setting tungsten white balance and gelling the flash would be best if ambient also was wanted.

Post #12, Apr 05, 2012 08:49:04


OVF

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need help with indoor strobe work
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