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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing 
Thread started 13 Apr 2012 (Friday) 01:44
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1D 2 prints too dark and red

 
Arte ­ Automobilistica
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Apr 13, 2012 01:44 |  #1

Hi
I am having problems with my prints which are too dark and too red. Can I have views on the lighter (original) photo as it is perfect on my monitor.

Advice welcome.

Thanks


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tonylong
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Apr 13, 2012 02:12 |  #2

So are you saying that the top post "looks like a print" but that the bottom post "looks like your monitor", or what?

Typically, monitors out of the box are too bright and need to be toned down. Where did the shots you posted come from?


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Nightstalker
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Apr 13, 2012 02:44 |  #3

If the top photo is of a print and the bottom is your jpg file then I'd say that the print mainly lacks contrast - both look very red and dark to me - the colours seem quite similar.

Have you calibrated your monitor?

I've pulled the brighter image into Photoshop and checked the RGB Histogram - there is a very strong Red bias showing and there is very little information in the top 1/4 of the histogram in any of the channels.


  
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Lowner
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Apr 13, 2012 03:43 |  #4

So do some post-processing until the image is nearer what you remember. Or are you saying its the monitor or printer at fault? If so, join the clan and start reading all about colour management - months, maybe years of work ahead of you here!


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René ­ Damkot
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Apr 13, 2012 06:43 |  #5

Do a nozzle check. Cyan or black might be clogged.
What exact settings, printer and paper were used?

Nightstalker wrote in post #14257921 (external link)
I've pulled the brighter image into Photoshop and checked the RGB Histogram - there is a very strong Red bias showing and there is very little information in the top 1/4 of the histogram in any of the channels.

Obviously: There's hardly any whites in the image…

I agree there's a cast though, but that might be a matter of taste.


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Arte ­ Automobilistica
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Apr 13, 2012 07:03 |  #6

Hi
Thanks for the quick replies.

Nightstalker wrote in post #14257921 (external link)
I've pulled the brighter image into Photoshop and checked the RGB Histogram - there is a very strong Red bias showing and there is very little information in the top 1/4 of the histogram in any of the channels.

How do I correct these two?

Is there a big difference on your monitors between the scanned print and jpeg?

I shoot with RAW and all settings at 0 and use DPP for processing. My DPP settings are
Shade, neutral, Con +1, High -1/2, Shadow 0/-1, Tone 0, Sat +1, sharp +4

Any suggestions?


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René ­ Damkot
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Apr 13, 2012 07:09 |  #7

Q&D: Photoshop: Image > Auto tone.

Alternatively (better) open the raw in your raw converter and set the proper whitebalance. Clicking on the white "911" might get you close. Otherwise, use the "Tune" option in DPP, or try a different Picture Style.


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Nightstalker
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Apr 14, 2012 05:01 |  #8

Arte Automobilistica wrote in post #14258358 (external link)
Is there a big difference on your monitors between the scanned print and jpeg?

There is some difference but it not night and day by any means.

To show you what I mean when talking about the histogram I've done a quick edit that makes it look more pleasing to my eye - your original is on the top, my edit below :

IMAGE: http://www.digitalfotoz.co.uk/mx.jpg

You can see the red channel vastly dominates the mid-range and there is very little in the upper 1/3rd of the histogram makingt the image quite dark.

I made some quick changes by using "levels" and individually adjusting the Red Green and Blue channels by eye to remove the red cast and give what I felt was a more natural and lighter look.

  
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Lowner
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Apr 14, 2012 05:06 as a reply to  @ Nightstalker's post |  #9

What Nightstalkers histograms also show is that the whole exposure is far too much to the LHS. I would naturally try to centre it up at the time of shooting.


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Arte ­ Automobilistica
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Apr 14, 2012 13:23 |  #10

Lowner wrote in post #14263637 (external link)
What Nightstalkers histograms also show is that the whole exposure is far too much to the LHS. I would naturally try to centre it up at the time of shooting.

Thanks Nightstalker I understand.

Lowner - I do this by adding + EV?


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Lowner
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Apr 14, 2012 13:53 |  #11

Arte Automobilistica wrote in post #14265238 (external link)
Thanks Nightstalker I understand.

Lowner - I do this by adding + EV?

Yes, thats right.


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Nightstalker
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Apr 14, 2012 14:39 |  #12

Pushing the EV may result in a few blown highlights but with RAW these can be recovered in post along as it is not to excessive.

It is easier to recover highlights than extract detail from under exposed shadows as pushing the shadows too much can introduce a lot of noise.


  
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woos
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Apr 14, 2012 16:56 |  #13

What are you printing with? What settings are you using while printing, etc? Screenshots might help there as well.


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Lowner
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Apr 15, 2012 03:23 |  #14

Nightstalker wrote in post #14265510 (external link)
Pushing the EV may result in a few blown highlights but with RAW these can be recovered in post along as it is not to excessive.

It is easier to recover highlights than extract detail from under exposed shadows as pushing the shadows too much can introduce a lot of noise.

I'm not suggesting massive exposure corrections. Thats the point of using the histogram of the first shot, done right the RAW will have all the information. It may need post-processing to actually see it in print, but the detail is there.

Thats the beauty of track events, if the first attempt is not good enough, the field will always be around again, and again, and........... Plenty of time to fine tune exposures and compositions.


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Nightstalker
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Apr 15, 2012 04:00 |  #15

I was agreeing with you fully - I just wanted to get across that you shouldn't be afraid of a few "blinkies" on the image preview.


  
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1D 2 prints too dark and red
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