Concert - Autofocus goes Haywire

[RishabhSood]

Hello,

I'm doing music photography from the past 1 year and I'm facing 1 issue constantly almost every day, Whenever I'm behind the artist, The auto-focus goes haywire due to the bright on coming lights, I've tried keeping the focus point on the artist itself but still it doesn't help much. The focus always end up somewhere else.

I use a Canon 60D with Sigma 50 mm 1.4, Tamron 17-55 2.8. Tamron 28-75mm 2.8.

Please help how to keep the focus on the artist, here is on such example:

[EL_PIC]

Auto Focus often fails in extreme bright light and darkness.
This is why the lenes also manual focus.
Nice effect tho ...

[RishabhSood]

Originally Posted by EL_PIC

Auto Focus often fails in extreme bright light and darkness.
This is why the lenes also manual focus.
Nice effect tho ...

The artists move enough to fail the manual focus

[watt100]

Originally Posted by RishabhSood

Hello,

I'm doing music photography from the past 1 year and I'm facing 1 issue constantly almost every day, Whenever I'm behind the artist, The auto-focus goes haywire due to the bright on coming lights, I've tried keeping the focus point on the artist itself but still it doesn't help much. The focus always end up somewhere else.

I use a Canon 60D with Sigma 50 mm 1.4, Tamron 17-55 2.8. Tamron 28-75mm 2.8.

Please help how to keep the focus on the artist, here is on such example:

use the focus assist beam from an external flash (but not use the flash)

[RichSoansPhotos]

Originally Posted by watt100

use the focus assist beam from an external flash (but not use the flash)

+1.

[scumdee]

I also find that focusing on a high contrast point like the edge of the t-shirt / neckline really helps too. The AF assist beam will increase AF accuracy too, just remember to set the flash to 'do not fire', you can easily set that on the 60D by going to the 'external flash control' menu.

[René Damkot]

Yeah. AF needs contrast. Always use a hood, think about not using a "protection" filter: All flare lowers contrast.

Although in this case, focusing on the face should not have been a problem IMO.

[DennisW1]

AI-Servo mode. There's usually enough movement from the performers that one-shot mode will fail you.

[RichSoansPhotos]

Originally Posted by DennisW1

AI-Servo mode. There's usually enough movement from the performers that one-shot mode will fail you.

AI Servo makes it much harder to get a sharp image in a dark performance. So, no I wouldn't use AI Servo

[René Damkot]

Originally Posted by 400dabuser

AI Servo makes it much harder to get a sharp image in a dark performance. So, no I wouldn't use AI Servo

Also depends on camera and lens used, and of course how (much) the subject is moving.

On my 1D3, I tend to use mostly AiServo with longer focal lengths (80-200mm and 85/1.8) and mostly One Shot on my 17-35L. I find my Sigma 50mm/1.4 and EF 28/1.8 handle AI Servo quite well on short to medium distances, so with those it depends on circumstances.

Bottom line: Get to know your gear.

[RichSoansPhotos]

Originally Posted by René Damkot

Also depends on camera and lens used, and of course how (much) the subject is moving.

On my 1D3, I tend to use mostly AiServo with longer focal lengths (80-200mm and 85/1.8) and mostly One Shot on my 17-35L. I find my Sigma 50mm/1.4 and EF 28/1.8 handle AI Servo quite well on short to medium distances, so with those it depends on circumstances.

Bottom line: Get to know your gear.

The 1D cameras do have a better focus system than Canon's other range of cameras, this is why they put it in the 7D and 5D3. Yes, good point is to get to know the gear

[snyder17315]

I'd suggest AI Servo, spot metering, and center focus point. Combine that with a wide aperture, high ISO and fast shutter speed and you're good to go.

My baseline settings before I leave the house to shoot a concert (with the 5D MK II):
1. Manual mode
2. Spot metering
3. AI Servo
4. Continuous Burst
5. ISO 1600
6. Widest lens aperture (usually 2.8 as i'm using the 24-70 and 70-200)
7. Center AF point
8. 1/200 shutter speed

As i'm shooting I'll make adjustments depending on the light, but always with shutter speed as the priority. So maybe the ISO goes to 3200 or even 6400. Sure it gets a little noisy, but noise can be fixed in post and a great, somewhat noisy (but sharp) shot is better than a clean, blurry, not so great shot.

[joeblack2022]

Originally Posted by watt100

use the focus assist beam from an external flash (but not use the flash)

Originally Posted by DennisW1

AI-Servo mode. There's usually enough movement from the performers that one-shot mode will fail you.

Just to point out I don't think the focus assist beam will fire in AI-Servo, in case you were planning on this combination.

[rejay14]

Originally Posted by snyder17315

I'd suggest AI Servo, spot metering, and center focus point. Combine that with a wide aperture, high ISO and fast shutter speed and you're good to go.

My baseline settings before I leave the house to shoot a concert (with the 5D MK II):
1. Manual mode
2. Spot metering
3. AI Servo
4. Continuous Burst
5. ISO 1600
6. Widest lens aperture (usually 2.8 as i'm using the 24-70 and 70-200)
7. Center AF point
8. 1/200 shutter speed

As i'm shooting I'll make adjustments depending on the light, but always with shutter speed as the priority. So maybe the ISO goes to 3200 or even 6400. Sure it gets a little noisy, but noise can be fixed in post and a great, somewhat noisy (but sharp) shot is better than a clean, blurry, not so great shot.

I concur. Servo in every shot for me. No idea why your colours are so saturated (blue/red)...If noise gets too bad, make it a B&W shot. They are timeless. All shots here on a 5dIII and 7d (17-55, 70-200 2.8 is II, 24-105)

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/....php?t=1233506

[sspellman]

1) Use center point focus only-much more accurate
2) Pick high contrast focus targets such as eyes, or pick a better target in the same focal plane such as the knobs on the DJ mixer
3) Canon lenses generally focus better and faster.
4) Focus manually