Shooting waterfalls: best ND filters?

[et078]

tunin, that's a nice image of the Kravice waterfall... It's a cool place in Hercegovina.

IMHO, waterfalls images are best taken on cloudy/rainy days. I personally try to avoid shooting waterfalls on bright sunny days. If this is an absolute must, then I guess an ND filter would work. The problem is still with the very high contrast between the water and the surrounding area, so in my opinion, this is not an optimal condition. The best "recipe", in my opinion, for shooting waterfalls is a cloudy day, and only a circular polarizer on the lens.

[jasonleehl]

Originally Posted by Hired Goon

I'm not sure what strength ND filter is required; initially I was thinking 9 or 10 stop but perhaps that is too much? Is some other stop sufficient in most cases?

Any advice on what I should get?

For NDs filters, I have the 3/6/10 Stops 77mm option which I will use the step-down ring options if some of my lens are like 72mm.

For my personal use, I find myself using either 3 or 6 stops more often. IMO, the 6 stop is a good base to try out and see whether it is too much or too little for your type of shoot.

[1Tanker]

Originally Posted by Hired Goon

Yep, it seems you are correct. I thought it was an 8-stop but it's only a 3-stop.

I got my B+W 10-stop ND filter today and it is incredibly dark. I had no problems using live view with the Hoya 3-stop, but I could not use it at all with the 10-stop. I had to autofocus with the filter off, then switch to manual focus, then screw in the filter, then shoot by guessing how long to expose. I'm not sure I like fussing with the filter so much, since I'll probably drop it and cause some damage.

I'm thinking that perhaps a 4- or 6-stop filter may be better suited to my needs.

I very routinely use a 9-stop ND + CPL with LV. I just crank the ISO up to ~6400, check focus at 10x. Take a shot without the ND first, then figure out what your exposure will be from there( pretty easy to do.. most everyone has a smart phone with them, with a calculator on it). I usually get pretty close, and things that i'm shooting with this combo, generally don't move too much.. so i have time to try a few shots to get it right.

I'd rather have too strong of a filter, than too weak. You can always up ISO, change SS, or aperture..if needed.... but you can't add light attenuation.

[CHUCK A]

1Tanker, why cranking up the ISO so high? I shoot 6 stop plus clp at 200 ISO with no problem

[1Tanker]

Originally Posted by CHUCK A

1Tanker, why cranking up the ISO so high? I shoot 6 stop plus clp at 200 ISO with no problem

Just to check focus and composition in Live View. Once i get it dialed-in, i drop back to ISO 100 for the shots.

[MCAsan]

Personally when shooting a stream or waterfall, I want ISO as low as I can go. On 7D that is 100. On 5DII or 5DIII you can do extended ISO range which will create an L (50) ISO. VND plus L really helps smooth out the water.

[1Tanker]

^ Yeah, i really wish they'd give us that extra stop on crop bodies, too!

[SuffolkGal]

Originally Posted by CameraMan

You could go the cheap route and just use a piece of welding glass. This is a 418 second exposure.

I bet that made your arm ache, lol .. nice take

[CameraMan]

Originally Posted by SuffolkGal

I bet that made your arm ache, lol .. nice take

It was harder holding my breath the whole time. I think my lips were purple after this shot.

[SuffolkGal]

CameraMan, totally off topic, but I see you're using Smugmug, how have their prints been, good quality?

I like your Rustic Ruins of Rural Georgia project, you've set me to thinking, good stuff