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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 118
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I am one of two volunteers to take swim team photos. Our swim facility is indoors and lightening (for me) is a wicked challenge. The two photos linked show kind of what I am up against. The west side of the facility is on the left of the pool which the sun will glare through during our meets. Then, there are the normal halogens pointing up to the ceiling which is about 20-25 feet high.
I am a hobbyist and tasked with taking individual photos inside. We may change that to being outside, but it is a pool club and we cannot carve a portion of the outdoor pool out for photos. Does anyone have any suggestions on contending with the sun and lighting? Pic #1 This is the sun at about 5PM. It is shining through to about the 3rd lane. Pic #1 Pic #2 This is the pool with the sun at about 6PM. You can see how blistering it is through the window on the far side (east side) of the pool. Pic #2 Pic #3 This is an action shot, but it shows what I can get when timing is right and the flash fires. When taking individual shots, I can get better focus and more control with my flash. Pic #3 Any suggestions are appreciated with the individual photos and lighting. I can only use the flash that I have because no power wires permitted. I do have remote triggers, tripod, and umbrella if that would help instead of direct flash mounted on the camera.
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Canon 7D; Ʃ 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM; Ʃ 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO HSM OS; Canon 50mm f/1.4 IS; Metz Mecablitz 48 Last edited by BigRedNole : 3rd of July 2012 (Tue) at 06:55. |
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#2 |
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Goldmember
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Indoors, I'd say to set up remote flash to the side, shoot in lane 1 (or 8... closest to flash). Maybe have an assistant in the water with a reflector opposite of the flash but out of your FOV. Move the setup around for dive shots vs. stroke shots. I'd recommend some more practice sessions to figure it out.
For the symmetrical strokes, a nice position is laying on the deck at the other end of the pool. Also, a 3/4 shot (sitting on deck) works well for fly and breaststroke. Side shots for breaststroke and free (breathing). For back, some nice shots from 3/4 after the swimmer has passed. I like shooting outside MUCH better. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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1D MkIII | 550D w/grip & ML| EF 70-200mm f2.8L| EF 24-105mm f4L IS | 430EXii | EF-S 18-55mm | EF 50mm f1.8 | Lowepro Toploader Pro 75 AW Last edited by waterrockets : 3rd of July 2012 (Tue) at 11:15. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 118
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Thank you for the feedback. I am going to have to find a way to battle the lighting as best as possible. Home meets are indoors and some away meets are outdoors. The team photo will be outside with light that should be ideal if the weather holds. However, the individual shots will be indoors and I will have to find the best way to light the picture. I cannot have anyone in the water and I will be doing this mainly myself.
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Canon 7D; Ʃ 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM; Ʃ 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO HSM OS; Canon 50mm f/1.4 IS; Metz Mecablitz 48 |
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#4 |
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For the team shots, I would try to find a location in the natatorium, or a time, when the sunlight through the windows is not an issue, and use lights.
For shots of the kids swimming, if you can, go to the outdoor meets. When I shoot my kids' indoor YMCA meets, I tend to take my camera to the away pools with the best lighting. For the most part, I have found that the pools with a row of high windows around one or more sides of the natatorium work best. Here is a thread with many swimming shots using many different situations and styles. I think you will agree, the outdoor shots tend to be, on the whole, much better (or at least, much easier to get good results): http://photography-on-the.net/forum/...+your+swimmers
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Harry ----- 7D | 300D | G1 -- flickr Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 | EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 | EF-S 60mm f/2.8 | 70-200 f/2.8L MkII |
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#5 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 118
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Quote:
The full team shot is going to be easier because it will be outside and the sun will be at a perfect angle. The individual shots have to be at the indoor pool. I am taking the day off. I will take my remote triggers, stand, umbrella, and everything else I have to make it work as best as possible. All members know we are only hobbyists. If they want pro level photography, they can hire someone
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Canon 7D; Ʃ 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM; Ʃ 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO HSM OS; Canon 50mm f/1.4 IS; Metz Mecablitz 48 |
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#6 | |
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Quote:
Around here, photographers are discouraged from using flash and prohibited from using it at the start or down on the deck (as opposed to sitting in the stands). The starter uses an electronic starter that activates a horn and a strobe. Timers are instructed to watch the strobe at the beginning of a race; apparently studies have shown that hand-eye reactions are quicker than hand-ear; and the timers get more accurate times when watching the strobe. So, having flashes going off presents a problem for the timers (as well as the swimmers). Ask an official or the coach if there is a policy about flash photography before banking on that solution. If you can't use flash, a fast lens is required for indoor work; your Ʃ 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO HSM OS will work well.
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Harry ----- 7D | 300D | G1 -- flickr Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 | EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 | EF-S 60mm f/2.8 | 70-200 f/2.8L MkII Last edited by hairy_moth : 3rd of July 2012 (Tue) at 14:07. |
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#7 |
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Am I the only one who thinks that light would be awesome! You would be able to get some great stuff shooting tight, exposing for the highlights and using shadows.
The post above me is correct about flash being a very touchy issue with swimming. Make sure you have the proper clearance and knowledge on when to shoot and not if you go that route. Also, most of your stuff is at ISO 100, I would image a 70-200 2.8 and some higher ISO would be all you need. |
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#8 |
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Goldmember
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Jon is right in that the lighting could serve to push you creatively and you might be able to score some fantastic shots. However, for practical reasons and for the type of photos your client (volunteer or not) probably wants, I would suggest asking if there was some way to lower blinds on the windows or cover them. I'd explain the lighting difficulties and show those photos as examples. However, then the challenge would be for you to gather enough light in order to freeze motion.
In preparation for a shoot, I try to push the venue as far as they are willing to go.
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 118
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Thank you for all of the feedback. I did check with using a flash at the meets and no one has an issue so far. This is a Summer league and mostly instructional vs competitive. I am certain at the year round swim meets, it would be discouraged or completely against using a flash. So, I will be shooting without a flash. Some photos from the last meet were without flash, but it was an away meet outdoors.
As for the team and individual photos, we have decided to take the pictures outside. I am hoping the weather cooperates. We just need to decide on a location. I can take the team pic with the sun anywhere from shining on the right side to the left side. I am thinking with the sun coming in from my right, I can get a decent background of the clubhouse. This is the picture they had last year and it looks to be the best possible option: GF Gators
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Canon 7D; Ʃ 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM; Ʃ 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO HSM OS; Canon 50mm f/1.4 IS; Metz Mecablitz 48 Last edited by BigRedNole : 6th of July 2012 (Fri) at 09:57. |
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#10 |
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Cream of the Crop
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Looking at the set of photos you've posted here is what I can offer:
1. Ditch the on-board flash. It's not helping you at all for any of these. 2. Crank up your ISO to get a faster shutter-speed, at least 1/500s. If you shoot auto then use Tv. In the evenly lit areas shoot Manual. 3. Fill the frame more. If you are allowed to get out of the bleachers and down to the pool deck. Having a much higher percentage of the subject in the frame will also help with metering. 4. For tricking lighting when one is going off the starting block use Manual exposure setting up by doing some test shots before the start and watching your histogram.
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Bob Last edited by Bob_A : 6th of July 2012 (Fri) at 10:18. |
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 118
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Thanks Bob. I am limited at what I can post. I got much better pictures in the last swim meet because it was outdoors. I was able to crank the ISO and speeds. It is a learning process of where to get the pics from. For the breast and butterfly, taking shots from the pool deck straight on or at a slight angle turns out the best. For freestyle, taking side shots and pure timing when they take a breath is best. For backstroke, taking it at the starting block looking down at them is great if I can time it. Otherwise, getting over the top of them from a lifeguard stand or from above is best.
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Canon 7D; Ʃ 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM; Ʃ 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO HSM OS; Canon 50mm f/1.4 IS; Metz Mecablitz 48 |
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#12 |
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Cream of the Crop
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Here's one of my daughter taken from the stands (indoors, no flash, ISO 2800, f/2.8, 1/500s) ... sorry about the distraction from the person's head
Timing is important, but so is selecting the correct AF options and shooting at a high frame rate. ![]()
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Bob |
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 118
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Here is one from the last meet. It was outdoors with better lighting. I was able to be around ISO 200-400 as it clouded up and started to get darker. I had a lot more pics I could keep. There are many throw aways too because of timing and some minor focus issues. We have an indoor meet tonight. Weather is expected to be cloudy which changes the lighting situation drastically indoors (for the better).
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Canon 7D; Ʃ 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM; Ʃ 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO HSM OS; Canon 50mm f/1.4 IS; Metz Mecablitz 48 |
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#14 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 118
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Quote:
AF has been a problem too. I was originally just using center focus. After reading a bit, I changed it to the center "+" focus. I was getting more keepers with this setting, but just not sure if it is the right one either. So far, the parents are very happy with the photos we have so far. I am sure some parents would want to see more of their children, but it simply is not possible. Many of the children are learning, do not come out of the water enough for a photo, or splash too much to get a picture.
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Canon 7D; Ʃ 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM; Ʃ 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO HSM OS; Canon 50mm f/1.4 IS; Metz Mecablitz 48 |
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#15 |
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Goldmember
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Are you using AI Servo? If not you should be. Also try using the AF-On button with your thumb, it'll keep your focus point on and then you can release at will.
IMO, your last shot is what you should be attempting to get. The three offered in the first post, they're just not for me. Pick the longer events, 200s, 400s ; sometimes even the 100s for the little guys is a distance race. The swimmers spread out more and you can get a good solo shot. The 50s have the swimmers too close, and there is so much turbulence your focus can often grab the splash. Include some ropes or side deck - something that gives perspective that there is a race going on. The lone-swimmer-in-the- water shot is one to avoid. And stay low, you'll like the results a lot more than the "over the top from a lifeguard stand" . just my $.02 Cheers !
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Darcy 7D, 30D, 24-70 2.8L; 70-200 2.8L IS; 580EX II; a hearty laugh; Pair of AB 800s & lots of other stuff 'n' junk. POTN Fantasy Football; aka Wide Right (charter member & perennial also ran) |
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