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#1 |
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Member
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if i have plenty of shutter speed should i make the F/number higher?
sports football, soccer, basketball,baseball thanks for any help |
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#2 |
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User is banned from forums
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mayberry
Posts: 11,386
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It would help if you stopped the lens down 1 or even 2 stops to maximize your keeper rate with fast prime lenses. For example, the 85mm 1.8 is razor sharp wide open and is sometimes difficult to focus on moving targets (such as basketball players). By stopping it down just a hair, I tend to get a higher percentage of images in focus.
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#3 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 15,543
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What Liza said is correct, but you also need to think about what you're trying to accomplish with DOF. If you're trying to isolate one player from the background or the other players, you may want to continue to use a large aperture - this is also true to you want really freeze action (keep a high shutter speed and let the aperture fall where it may). On the other hand, if you want good DOF and you have the shutter speed to support it, by all means close down a few stops. It's all about the trade-offs and the choices you make.
Mark
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Mark ----- Some primes, some zooms, some Ls, some bodies and they all play nice together. Thirty-five years of shooting and still learning. My G&N Blog (NSFW)- My Complete Gear List - Mac-Photo Website - My Tumblr Site (NSFW) G&N FORUM EARLY ACCESS & IMAGE POSTING RULES |
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#4 |
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User is banned from forums
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mayberry
Posts: 11,386
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I should have mentioned that my shutter speed is typically set on 1/500. Thanks for adding that, Mark.
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#5 |
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Member
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thanks liza and mark for awnsering my question
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#6 |
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POTN Sports Photographer of the year 2005
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Anywhere where ski World cup makes its stop
Posts: 2,502
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I don't. Ok I actually do. If I have enough light I do go from 2.8 to 3.2 or 3.5 the most. But only if I really do have enough light. That means if I can live with 1/640 and because of good light I come to 1/1000 or faster then I start thinking of changing. But basicaly I never go much more up, since soon you have everything sharp. Or if not sharp, distracting enough, so I rather stick with faster times, lower iso and wide open lens.
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 275
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If you have the 'headroom' to move away from 2.8 then I'd suggest going from ISO800 to ISO400 or 400-200 rather than getting more depth at 3.5 4 etc. You'll get a sharper enlargement and there aren't too many sports out there where the background is all that important anyhow, so it's ok for 2.8 blur to occur.
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Matt *20D YAY! My first *real* digital camera. 5DIII 1Dx and 1Dx and 1DIV And all the heavy glass...Plus a flash or seven... |
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#8 | |
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Goldmember
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Essex
Posts: 4,345
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Quote:
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