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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 17 Dec 2014 (Wednesday) 10:12
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EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Review WOW!

 
RodS57
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Feb 17, 2018 10:30 |  #7621

Choderboy wrote in post #18565676 (external link)
Tawny frogmouth. Masters of camouflage.
QUOTED IMAGE
QUOTED IMAGE
QUOTED IMAGE

That is amazing!

Rod


>>> Pictures? What pictures? <<<<

  
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sploo
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Feb 17, 2018 15:08 |  #7622

Pondrader wrote in post #18565873 (external link)
I kind of agree with that.. I own two 1.4III.... Both are in super shape.. Never dropped or harmed in any way as far as I know. But one is noticeably sharper than the other and needs no MFA. The other needs more like some have said on the thread. I have tried to come up with a reason but really can not.

We're talking tiny tolerances when it comes to optics. When the Sony A7R first came out people were raving about being able to use a good sensor with Canon glass (obviously with an adaptor). It didn't take long for people to find issues with consistency of sharpness across images; due to tiny inaccuracies introduced by the adaptor (mostly I believe due to the lens "sagging" a bit as a result of weight) - but we'd be talking fractions of a millimetre.

It's the same story with MFA - if you need to MFA a lens+body combination it's not a fault; it's simply a result of manufacturing tolerances. I've seen tales of people claiming their new body was defective, because they'd spent time going through lens samples to build up a "perfect" kit with their old body; when in reality they probably just got a bunch of lenses that were "out" by the same amount (in the other direction) as their old body. In those scenarios the new body may well have been better (closer to 0 in terms of tolerances) - but obviously now shows up problems with the lenses.

The only one I couldn't put my finger on would be if the same 100-400II + 1.4x TC combo on a 7D2 looked worse than an APS-C crop from a 5DS (given the pixel count, pitch, sensor area, and "vintage" of the sensor tech should be roughly similar). Assuming both combinations had been MFA'd, of course...


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Choderboy
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Feb 17, 2018 15:52 |  #7623

sploo wrote in post #18565794 (external link)
Resistors have copy variation (% +/- tolerance); no moving parts there. The placement of glass elements inside the extender will have similar tolerances. Even temperature changes will cause things to move. It's a fact of life with just about any component or product.

You can pay big money for engineering to try to minimise those issues (think cinema lenses) but it'll always be present.

It's old news. You can search if you want. Credible sights made the same conclusions: The 1.4 TCII is sharper in the centre.


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chris001
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Feb 17, 2018 17:05 |  #7624

man, I so wish I could go to the places you guys go to. someday...
my meager shot of a sparrow. LOL I love all the photos you guys took!

IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4613/38461015090_115886c861_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/21AE​KPQ  (external link) sparrow (external link) by Chris Barzyz (external link), on Flickr

Thanks!
Chris
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lijoec
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Feb 17, 2018 17:53 |  #7625

IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4628/40281132512_00702fe9be_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/24nv​kjG  (external link) IMG_4498 (external link) by Joseph Colozzo (external link), on Flickr
IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/40326501011_3f40990157_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/24rv​RNc  (external link) IMG_4522 (external link) by Joseph Colozzo (external link), on Flickr

OK, OK, the 1.4III is growing on me! LMAO

Cheers,
Joe
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Choderboy
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Feb 17, 2018 20:40 |  #7626

lijoec wrote in post #18566283 (external link)
QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/24nv​kjG  (external link) IMG_4498 (external link) by Joseph Colozzo (external link), on Flickr
QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/24rv​RNc  (external link) IMG_4522 (external link) by Joseph Colozzo (external link), on Flickr

OK, OK, the 1.4III is growing on me! LMAO

Looks good. Good atmosphere. I have been seeing a lot of heat haze past few days. It's hot weather, haze has been over the water. Sometimes haze is predictable, even in winter, water here can be 17 °C, air temp 20 °C but then clouds block the sun, air temp quickly drops to 15 °C, water is warmer than air resulting in bad heat haze above the water. Can't make sense of it in current weather but it's been bad.
When there is just a bit of haze it can be hard to detect looking through viewfinder but will be much easier to see using decent binoculars.


Dave
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Pondrader
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Post edited 2 months ago by Pondrader.
     
Feb 18, 2018 03:24 |  #7627

sploo wrote in post #18566151 (external link)
We're talking tiny tolerances when it comes to optics. When the Sony A7R first came out people were raving about being able to use a good sensor with Canon glass (obviously with an adaptor). It didn't take long for people to find issues with consistency of sharpness across images; due to tiny inaccuracies introduced by the adaptor (mostly I believe due to the lens "sagging" a bit as a result of weight) - but we'd be talking fractions of a millimetre.

It's the same story with MFA - if you need to MFA a lens+body combination it's not a fault; it's simply a result of manufacturing tolerances. I've seen tales of people claiming their new body was defective, because they'd spent time going through lens samples to build up a "perfect" kit with their old body; when in reality they probably just got a bunch of lenses that were "out" by the same amount (in the other direction) as their old body. In those scenarios the new body may well have been better (closer to 0 in terms of tolerances) - but obviously now shows up problems with the lenses.

The only one I couldn't put my finger on would be if the same 100-400II + 1.4x TC combo on a 7D2 looked worse than an APS-C crop from a 5DS (given the pixel count, pitch, sensor area, and "vintage" of the sensor tech should be roughly similar). Assuming both combinations had been MFA'd, of course...

My camera lens combo is not as good a match as some 7DII"s I've had in the past couple years. But you can get what you need out of it. MFA is turned off on my camera


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Jeff ........7D Mark II, 7D, 70-300L, 100-400LII
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clipper_from_oz
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Post edited 2 months ago by clipper_from_oz.
     
Feb 18, 2018 07:17 |  #7628

one from today ....I was lucky though with this as I dropped to 1/400th sec for a better iso and f6.3 . Normaly 1/ 400secs just too slow even with IS but this time I was borderline ok.


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Clipper
5DSR,5DMkII,Fuji XPRO1,X-T1&X-T20,Fotoman 6x17cm Large Format Panorama Camera,Mamiya Universal 6x9
Canon EF 16-35mm f4 L, 17mm TSE f4 L,50mm f1.4, 24-70 f2.8 L, 70-200mm F4 L, 85mm f1.8, 100-400mm II L,
EF 400mm f2.8 IS II L, Fujinon XF18mmf2, XF35mmf1.4, XF60mm f2, XF18-55f2.8-4.5, XF55-200f4
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clipper_from_oz
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Post edited 2 months ago by clipper_from_oz. (4 edits in all)
     
Feb 18, 2018 07:30 |  #7629

Pondrader wrote in post #18566519 (external link)
My camera lens combo is not as good a match as some 7DII"s I've had in the past couple years. But you can get what you need out of it. MFA is turned off on my camera
thumbnail
Hosted photo: posted by Pondrader in
./showthread.php?p=185​66519&i=i95872257
forum: Canon EF and EF-S Lenses

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Hosted photo: posted by Pondrader in
./showthread.php?p=185​66519&i=i196508890
forum: Canon EF and EF-S Lenses


Its that f8 your using that makes all the difference :)....That crop is unbelievably sharp! I actually think many 50-80% crops look better in POTN than the full shot because having to downsample these high density sensor images like 7dMk2 and 5dMk2 etc makes full images look terrible because of having so many pixels binned on the downsample to get to 1200. At least a crop isnt losing as much downsampled pixels as the main image . Maybe we should all just post crops for good IQ :) :)

BTW Ive also turned my MFA off...I did have it adjusted using my lens align but it infact seems better off than at the lens align adjusted points !

My issue is having to shoot handheld with the damn 5DSR 50 MP sensor showing heaps of camera shake when I crop. Thus I have to go up in iso after Ive set minimum shutter of 1/1000 sec and f5.6 Even with that setting Im regularly at iso 1200 or above. I jsut wish I could find some birds here that dont move hahahahah....I dream of higher apertures at night now its that bad:). Only alternative to this problem is either use a damn heavy tripod or get a bigger lens with a lower aperture like a eos 400mm f2.8 ...... And with a heavier lens I will probably need a damn tripod anyway so Im snookered either way ..although......

I just saw recently that a couple of companies had released a fully functioning ef-xF adapter that allows EOS lens to AF and auto aperture on Fujis bodies !.....And it was released last week and sold out on the spot. Ive got my name down for mnext batch. Cant wait to mount my 100-400mm on the midget mirrorless x=t20 I picked up inJapan recently That will mean a little camera with a 24mp xtrans sensor and great highlight and shadow recovery shooting at 14 frames per second through the 100-400!!. And even better the 400mm end will rate at 600+mm f5.6...

Clipper


Clipper
5DSR,5DMkII,Fuji XPRO1,X-T1&X-T20,Fotoman 6x17cm Large Format Panorama Camera,Mamiya Universal 6x9
Canon EF 16-35mm f4 L, 17mm TSE f4 L,50mm f1.4, 24-70 f2.8 L, 70-200mm F4 L, 85mm f1.8, 100-400mm II L,
EF 400mm f2.8 IS II L, Fujinon XF18mmf2, XF35mmf1.4, XF60mm f2, XF18-55f2.8-4.5, XF55-200f4
Rodenstock, Sinar& Nikkor LF lens for Pano (75,95,150+210mm)
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clipper_from_oz
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Feb 18, 2018 07:49 |  #7630

Choderboy wrote in post #18565676 (external link)
Tawny frogmouth. Masters of camouflage.
QUOTED IMAGE
QUOTED IMAGE
QUOTED IMAGE


Unreal how they camouflage themselves so well.

And Im envious of you seeing them as I have travelled most parts of Australia and kept a look out for them in the places that they are known to frequent ...but never any luck of ever seeing one in the wild! ...MAybe Im just not looking hard enough :)


Clipper
5DSR,5DMkII,Fuji XPRO1,X-T1&X-T20,Fotoman 6x17cm Large Format Panorama Camera,Mamiya Universal 6x9
Canon EF 16-35mm f4 L, 17mm TSE f4 L,50mm f1.4, 24-70 f2.8 L, 70-200mm F4 L, 85mm f1.8, 100-400mm II L,
EF 400mm f2.8 IS II L, Fujinon XF18mmf2, XF35mmf1.4, XF60mm f2, XF18-55f2.8-4.5, XF55-200f4
Rodenstock, Sinar& Nikkor LF lens for Pano (75,95,150+210mm)
flickr (external link)

  
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Sibil
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Feb 18, 2018 08:00 |  #7631

clipper_from_oz wrote in post #18566589 (external link)
I just saw recently that a couple of companies had released a fully functioning ef-xF adapter that allows EOS lens to AF and auto aperture on Fujis bodies !.....And it was released last week and sold out on the spot. Ive got my name down for mnext batch. Cant wait to mount my 100-400mm on the midget mirrorless x=t20 I picked up inJapan recently That will mean a little camera with a 24mp xtrans sensor and great highlight and shadow recovery shooting at 14 frames per second through the 100-400!!. And even better the 400mm end will rate at 600+mm f5.6...

Clipper

Very interesting. I will have to look into this, Any more info?




  
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Feb 18, 2018 08:39 |  #7632

clipper_from_oz wrote in post #18566589 (external link)
Its that f8 your using that makes all the difference :)....That crop is unbelievably sharp! I actually think many 50-80% crops look better in POTN than the full shot because having to downsample these high density sensor images like 7dMk2 and 5dMk2 etc makes full images look terrible because of having so many pixels binned on the downsample to get to 1200. At least a crop isnt losing as much downsampled pixels as the main image . Maybe we should all just post crops for good IQ :) :)

BTW Ive also turned my MFA off...I did have it adjusted using my lens align but it infact seems better off than at the lens align adjusted points !

My issue is having to shoot handheld with the damn 5DSR 50 MP sensor showing heaps of camera shake when I crop. Thus I have to go up in iso after Ive set minimum shutter of 1/1000 sec and f5.6 Even with that setting Im regularly at iso 1200 or above. I jsut wish I could find some birds here that dont move hahahahah....I dream of higher apertures at night now its that bad:). Only alternative to this problem is either use a damn heavy tripod or get a bigger lens with a lower aperture like a eos 400mm f2.8 ...... And with a heavier lens I will probably need a damn tripod anyway so Im snookered either way ..although......

I just saw recently that a couple of companies had released a fully functioning ef-xF adapter that allows EOS lens to AF and auto aperture on Fujis bodies !.....And it was released last week and sold out on the spot. Ive got my name down for mnext batch. Cant wait to mount my 100-400mm on the midget mirrorless x=t20 I picked up inJapan recently That will mean a little camera with a 24mp xtrans sensor and great highlight and shadow recovery shooting at 14 frames per second through the 100-400!!. And even better the 400mm end will rate at 600+mm f5.6...

Clipper

Will that adapter allow auto-focus? The only ones I have seen do not.


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sploo
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Feb 18, 2018 09:49 |  #7633

Choderboy wrote in post #18566189 (external link)
It's old news. You can search if you want. Credible sights made the same conclusions: The 1.4 TCII is sharper in the centre.

Yep... but note... I never said the 1.4x II wasn't sharper in the centre. I said that copy-to-copy variation will come into play, and it's entirely feasible that a sample of the vII has (on average) sharper centres than the vIII.

When Roger Cicala rated the Canon 24-70II sharper than the 70-200II at 70mm (https://www.lensrental​s.com …f2-8-ii-resolution-tests/ (external link)) I believe he got some flak, so he posted this (https://www.lensrental​s.com …on-24-70-mk-ii-variation/ (external link)) excellent article looking at sample variation.

I recall many arguments about the 100-400I vs the 70-200II + 2x TC; with just as many claims for either being sharper at 400mm; again, sample variation. Which of those two (on average) was better I don't know; but obviously the 100-400II has made that argument moot.


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nero_design
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Feb 18, 2018 10:02 |  #7634


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I've seen a few comments here that this lens is only useful outdoors and in "good light", but I occasionally use it handheld at night or in very low light. This picture was taken handheld in my lounge-room as an experiment to test the Image Stabilizer (which is particularly effective on this lens). The focus target was the middle of the label on the bottle. The text on the neck of the bottle is softer because it sits a couple of inches behind the edge of the focus. I bought this as a gift for someone at Christmas so that's the LEDs on the Christmas Tree producing the Bokeh balls in the background.



  
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sploo
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Feb 18, 2018 10:03 |  #7635

Pondrader wrote in post #18566519 (external link)
MFA is turned off on my camera

It could be right it could be wrong (off just means no correction being applied). The issue is the difference between the length of the path between the lens and AF sensor (via the mirror) vs the length of the path between the lens and imaging sensor. Basically the camera is hitting focus on the AF sensor, and any tiny difference in path length means the projected image won't be focused on the imaging sensor.

The pain is that AF isn't 100% repeatable; each "lock" is effectively a bit of a scatter-gun approach, where some may be in front or behind "perfect". If the centre of that shot grouping is perfect (accuracy), and the spread is pretty small (precision) then all will be well. The problem is that taking a single shot to work out the correct MFA value may be misleading, so you'd have to taken several at each MFA setting and compare.

It's why I like the DotTune method; hit perfect focus with Liveview (the AF "sensor" is the imaging plane), turn off AF, then go through the MFA values to find the middle of the best range. Sounds more complicated that it is really; perhaps a couple of minutes for a prime, twice that for a zoom.

There is an easier way (that takes money and time); send body and lens to Canon and ask them to hand tweak them to 0! At least in the UK there were happy to tweak a problematic Canon lens for me, and leave the body unchanged (as it wasn't too far off 0). If they'd tweaked the body I'd have had to MFA all my other lenses again.

All this is moot if you're lucky enough that the statistics gods have given you a lens+body combo that matches out of the box ;-)a


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