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Thread started 17 Nov 2015 (Tuesday) 16:36
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Fuji High ISO Examples

 
Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Nov 17, 2015 16:36 |  #1

Shooting a few events a month, I always seem to end up pulling out my 5D3 once the light drops, unless I'm using flash that is. I think that this is because I'm not really sure about the high ISO output from the Fuji X-Trans. I plan on posting some real world high ISO [6400 is the max raw allowed by Fuji], anybody else got any they would like to share.


Not processed in any way just imported into Lr and at 1:1

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Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. AD600BM, TT865F, AL-H198, ThinkTank AS2, Peli1514, Ona Bowery, Matthews Grip
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bobbyz
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Post has been edited over 1 year ago by bobbyz.
Nov 18, 2015 21:21 |  #2

I try to avoid ISO6400 but sometimes there is no choice. Even on 5dmk3 I avoid higher ISOs as in general I hate to shoot when light is not good. In your case, 1/100 and f3.2 is still not that bad, personally I like using f1.2/f1.4 prime in those situations as I can use lower ISO. Or shoot with the person facing other way where there will be light coming form what appears to be a lamp in the bg.

For these kind of shots, you need Sony A7rII.:)


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

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EverydayGetaway
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Nov 19, 2015 00:32 |  #3

I find ISO 3200 on my X-E2 to be very clean and retain great color detail. ISO 6400 starts to get a little softer and the colors will start to get washed out, but usually you can still get very good B&W's even at max ISO. I don't use NR for the vast majority of my shots, mostly because I'm lazy and not all that good at it and partly because I actually usually like a little noise if it's from a camera with unobtrusive noise patterns (which I think the Fuji's are great with).

Sure, it's not nearly as clean as my a7S, but very useable IMO.

No NR on any of these samples

ISO 3200

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5669/23142542501_e6c20f502b_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Bg2z​Bt] (external link)DSCF6810.jpg (external link) by Lucas Graenicher (external link), on Flickr

ISO 6400

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5760/22509749993_1e37ddbfe6_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Ai7m​rP] (external link)DSCF6844.jpg (external link) by Lucas Graenicher (external link), on Flickr

The best thing about my X-E2 over my a7S though, is the pop-up flash... I find it incredibly useful

ISO 500, pop-up flash bounced off ceiling

IMAGE: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/686/22509764383_12cbc6ba98_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Ai7q​HV] (external link)DSCF6890.jpg (external link) by Lucas Graenicher (external link), on Flickr

Fuji X-Pro2 // Fuji X-T1 // Fuji X-100T // XF 18mm f2 // Rokinon 12mm f2 // XF 35mm f1.4 // Rokinon 21mm f1.4 // XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 // XF 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 // Rokinon 85mm f1.4 // Zhonghi Lensturbo ii // Various adapted MF lenses
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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Post has been edited over 1 year ago by Two Hot Shoes.
Nov 19, 2015 03:23 |  #4

One of the best features of the X-E1/2 is that pop up flash, love the fact that you can point it up. The slowest lens I own for the 5D3 is the 135/2L so usually shoot wider than the 2.8 [when DOF allows]. I did find that I got better results using the XF16-55/2.8 over the 35/1.4 just due to the AF speed. More sharpness equated to a better jpeg outputted once the file was processed. That I found interesting.


Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. AD600BM, TT865F, AL-H198, ThinkTank AS2, Peli1514, Ona Bowery, Matthews Grip
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bobbyz
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Nov 19, 2015 08:29 |  #5

For me typical low light is 1/30 @f1.4, ISO6400. f2.8 and 1/60 means you 3 stops higher. I never liked using f2.8 for indoors even on my FF. That is why I sold 24-70mm f2.8 II after taking maybe 10 shots with it. Goto lens on 5dmk3/6d was 35mm f1.4L or the Sigma 35mm f1.4.

I think with newer XT we will see better high ISO performance. Regarding flash, it gives nice final output if you can use it. I like it even when say shooting higher ISOs.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

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EverydayGetaway
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Nov 19, 2015 09:10 |  #6

Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #17789437 (external link)
One of the best features of the X-E1/2 is that pop up flash, love the fact that you can point it up.

I agree, it's such an amazingly useful little flash. I also find it to be plenty powerful on the X-E2 :)

bobbyz wrote in post #17789576 (external link)
For me typical low light is 1/30 @f1.4, ISO6400. f2.8 and 1/60 means you 3 stops higher. I never liked using f2.8 for indoors even on my FF. That is why I sold 24-70mm f2.8 II after taking maybe 10 shots with it. Goto lens on 5dmk3/6d was 35mm f1.4L or the Sigma 35mm f1.4.

I think with newer XT we will see better high ISO performance. Regarding flash, it gives nice final output if you can use it. I like it even when say shooting higher ISOs.

You must have very steady hands. I only ever shoot below 1/60 if it's a completely still subject and I have IS or something to stabilize myself with like a wall or ledge.

As for the aperture; as of right now the fastest native lens for my X-E2 is an f2.8, I haven't found that to be too much of a problem yet, it still yeilds fantastic results indoors (especially if I can use the flash). f1.4 would be nice, but it isn't always the best option, the DOF at f1.4 even on an APS-C sensor camera can be pretty limiting for many subjects. When I had the 35/1.4 for my X-E1 I often used it at f2, I also often use my 50/1.7 Zeiss at f2.8 on my a7S.

I seriously love that onboard flash though... :lol: I shot a thanksgiving dinner for the homeschool group I coach yesterday and used the XF 18-55mm at various lengths/apertures and hovered around ISO 1600 using the pop-flash bounced on the ceiling the whole day, got a lot of great shots from it :)


Fuji X-Pro2 // Fuji X-T1 // Fuji X-100T // XF 18mm f2 // Rokinon 12mm f2 // XF 35mm f1.4 // Rokinon 21mm f1.4 // XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 // XF 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 // Rokinon 85mm f1.4 // Zhonghi Lensturbo ii // Various adapted MF lenses
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Jeff ­ Hanson
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Nov 19, 2015 09:20 |  #7

EverydayGetaway wrote in post #17789606 (external link)
You must have very steady hands. I only ever shoot below 1/60 if it's a completely still subject and I have IS or something to stabilize myself with like a wall or ledge.

Handheld at 1/8 second, baby!

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5629/20989922738_a7dae8cfc4_z.jpg



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sporadic
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Nov 19, 2015 09:51 |  #8

Handheld .4 sec, ISO 6400 with a X-T1. I was braced against some observation binoculars on a swivel mount. Processed with just what's available in LR5.

IMAGE: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/623/22609299115_968dd1d44a_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ArUy​VZ] (external link)SC Aquarium (external link) by smerrick (external link), on Flickr

Fuji X-T1 | 35/1.4 | 10-24 | 18-55 | 55-200
7D | 300/4 L IS

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bobbyz
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Nov 19, 2015 15:18 |  #9

I am not good at holding at lower ss but 35L on ff, it is not hard to do 1/30.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

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EverydayGetaway
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Nov 19, 2015 15:21 |  #10

bobbyz wrote in post #17789935 (external link)
I am not good at holding at lower ss but 35L on ff, it is not hard to do 1/30.

True, but I don't usually like to go below even 1/100s when shooting people to avoid motion blur anyway.


Fuji X-Pro2 // Fuji X-T1 // Fuji X-100T // XF 18mm f2 // Rokinon 12mm f2 // XF 35mm f1.4 // Rokinon 21mm f1.4 // XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 // XF 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 // Rokinon 85mm f1.4 // Zhonghi Lensturbo ii // Various adapted MF lenses
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Zansho
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Dec 06, 2015 14:59 |  #11

Both examples ISO 5000 or so. Fuji XT-10, 35mm 1.4

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http://www.michaeljsam​aripa.com (external link) creating beautiful images for myself, my clients, and the world. Shooting with a mix of Canon, Fuji, and Sony.

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EverydayGetaway
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Post has been edited over 1 year ago by EverydayGetaway.
Dec 06, 2015 18:48 |  #12

Fuji X-E2 + XF 27/2.8
ISO 1600, but shadows were pushed by more than 2 stops, no NR

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5676/22760432383_d884c6150f_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/AFga​zZ] (external link)DSCF7274.jpg (external link) by Lucas Graenicher (external link), on Flickr

Fuji X-Pro2 // Fuji X-T1 // Fuji X-100T // XF 18mm f2 // Rokinon 12mm f2 // XF 35mm f1.4 // Rokinon 21mm f1.4 // XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 // XF 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 // Rokinon 85mm f1.4 // Zhonghi Lensturbo ii // Various adapted MF lenses
flickr (external link) // Instagram (external link)

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DubR
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Post has been edited over 1 year ago by DubR.
Dec 08, 2015 14:10 |  #13

Shane's original Ribshack

McDonough, GA

ISO 6400 hand held at 1/34 F5.6. SOOC except for crop.


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sporadic
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Dec 08, 2015 14:28 |  #14

IMAGE: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/364/18599616829_9837074bc6_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ukzU​5M] (external link)
Tomorrowland (external link) by smerrick (external link), on Flickr

Fuji X-T1 | 35/1.4 | 10-24 | 18-55 | 55-200
7D | 300/4 L IS

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bobbyz
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Post has been last edited over 1 year ago by bobbyz. 2 edits done in total.
Dec 09, 2015 21:32 |  #15

Wish I had 12mm f2.0 lens and 16-55mm f2.8 instead of my 14mm f2.8 and 18-55mm kit. Overall Fuji worked and I liked the lower weight compared to the dSLR.

IMAGE: http://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s11/v32/p1677221995-5.jpg

IMAGE: http://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s5/v125/p1787557978-5.jpg

IMAGE: http://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s5/v125/p1712510966-5.jpg

5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

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Fuji High ISO Examples
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