Does anyone here use Light banks for automotive portraits

As the title states im curious who here has used them or is using them would love to pick ur brain

Some studios use them. We used white flats & put the light on them. Personally, I think it gives better control of the highlights because you don't have to light the whole flat & can feather the light. You can see both techniques here:
http://www.core77.com …photography-set-ups-21672

Im more interested in some advice on things to watch out for etc.. in the process of building one will be 10' x 16' powered by 4 about 1600's....

Got started today and got the frame mostly built still have more to add to it

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Made some progress still have toe finish up thr mounts for the lights and suspend it in the correct spot

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I'm interested to see the final product and output.

windpig wrote in post #18209208
I'm interested to see the final product and output.

Planning to use 4 alien bee 1600s so should be plenty of light.. should be doing a test shoot tues

Are you planning on aiming the lights up in the box, to reflect down on the subject,or just pointing the lights straight down and hoping the diffusion panel keeps the lighting even?

98kellrs wrote in post #18209258
Are you planning on aiming the lights up in the box, to reflect down on the subject,or just pointing the lights straight down and hoping the diffusion panel keeps the lighting even?

Up... my mounts aren't fixed yet I will be using a light meter to get the most even distribution I can then will lock the mounts permanently

Got the box mounted figured I'd get in the shot to give a idea on sizero the ladder is a 12ft one... I'll have more detail shots of the lifting mechanism and hopefully fired up to start adjusting the position of lights to create an even distribution of light output..... then gotta work on background and floor

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got the lights mounted, diffuser on(gotta adjust it to work out the wrinkles, and hand crank system in place.. did a few tests with the light meter and currently have a .8stop hot spot in the middle of the box so will do some light angle adjustments to bring every thing in closer in exposure.. cant wait to test it out on a car

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I assume that your 'hot spot' is when reading the face of the light panel with a reflected light spotmeter aimed at different spots on the front panel? Or is the 'hot spot' measured at subject position as you move an incident flat disk about the illuminated field?


About what kind of f/stop are you getting with an incident reading right now? (I know, the hotspot needs to be addressed) I'm curious to learn what ~2500 w-s does in that situation.

Have you considered a second diffusion layer? A slightly smaller rectangular frame with diffusion material, suspended up from the lower panel by 6-12" would really help to even things out.

Wilt wrote in post #18213784
I assume that your 'hot spot' is when reading the face of the light panel with a reflected light spotmeter aimed at different spots on the front panel? Or is the 'hot spot' measured at subject position as you move an incident flat disk about the illuminated field?


About what kind of f/stop are you getting with an incident reading right now? (I know, the hotspot needs to be addressed) I'm curious to learn what ~2500 w-s does in that situation.

Have you considered a second diffusion layer? A slightly smaller rectangular frame with diffusion material, suspended up from the lower panel by 6-12" would really help to even things out.

Wilt wrote in post #18213784
I assume that your 'hot spot' is when reading the face of the light panel with a reflected light spotmeter aimed at different spots on the front panel? Or is the 'hot spot' measured at subject position as you move an incident flat disk about the illuminated field?


About what kind of f/stop are you getting with an incident reading right now? (I know, the hotspot needs to be addressed) I'm curious to learn what ~2500 w-s does in that situation.

Have you considered a second diffusion layer? A slightly smaller rectangular frame with diffusion material, suspended up from the lower panel by 6-12" would really help to even things out.

i used my cyber commander light meter for a quick test <as my battery in my sekonic is dead.. i will test more today, i basically had the meter 3ft off the ground and took readings directly below the box at various points keeping the height the same at all times.. i think my hot spot is due to my lights being point inwards a bit too much.. i am thinking of adding another diffusion layer inside the box but i will get a car under this and see how it does.. as far as readings i had the commander set to iso100 1/250shutter at 50% power i was getting a reading of f16

I would be more concerned with the readings right at the box surface as that is what will create the reflections on the car ... and get the Seconic up and running with the dome retracted before messing around much.

bartc wrote in post #18213807
i think my hot spot is due to my lights being point inwards a bit too much.. i am thinking of adding another diffusion layer inside the box but i will get a car under this and see how it does.. as far as readings i had the commander set to iso100 1/250shutter at 50% power i was getting a reading of f16

I assume you using the Alien Bees inside your DIY softbox in bare tube configuration?

Wilt wrote in post #18213812
I assume you using the Alien Bees inside your DIY softbox in bare tube configuration?

Yes 4 1600s controiled by the commander with 1 receiver