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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Fashion, Editorial & Commercial
Thread started 20 May 2017 (Saturday) 08:51
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Night portraits

 
KatManDEW
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May 30, 2017 08:14 |  #16

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18361990 (external link)
I use tape with a filter hood when the filters that came with it aren't enough. Or you could make a holder. Isn't photography supposed to be a creative endeavor? ; )

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thumbnailHosted photo: posted by PhotosGuy in
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The creative endeavor part is OK for me, and I'm an old model airplane builder, so I like to fiddle around rigging things up, but I have so very little time :-(

I think I've seen gels advertised for strobes. Seems like there should be gel holders available for standard strobe configurations, like Bowens in my case.




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KatManDEW
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May 30, 2017 08:20 |  #17

KatManDEW wrote in post #18359023 (external link)
Playing with night portraits. Had to bump the ISO to get some background exposure, and that resulted in having trouble getting the flash power low enough. Any suggestions?

This shot was with a Orlit RT 610 in a 48 inch softbox.

Update: I must be doing something wrong because I'm having trouble getting strobe power low enough sometimes even in daylight. I'm shooting a Canon 5D4 in manual exposure mode and exposing for a desired amount of ambient light. I would prefer to shoot ETTL to give me more freedom when moving the subjects around. But even in manual flash I run into too much power.




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PhotosGuy
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May 30, 2017 08:21 |  #18

Just a "heads up"! I edited my post because I remembered sporadic's "Gel / Film holder for Cokin P (3D Printed)"


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gonzogolf
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May 30, 2017 16:40 |  #19

KatManDEW wrote in post #18366437 (external link)
Update: I must be doing something wrong because I'm having trouble getting strobe power low enough sometimes even in daylight. I'm shooting a Canon 5D4 in manual exposure mode and exposing for a desired amount of ambient light. I would prefer to shoot ETTL to give me more freedom when moving the subjects around. But even in manual flash I run into too much power.

The phrase, desired amount if ambient light, can be interpreted several ways. If you expose manually for proper exposure then add flash it's going to overexpose. You generally need to underexpose slightly then add the flash for fill. The problem with using ettl is that you are trying to hit a moving Target with a moving rifle. ETTL meters each shot, so by the time you figure out if you are over or under then even the slightest change in composition (and therefore the reflectivity of the scene) can negate any compensation you make. ETTL can be an amazing tool but you have to learn to work within it's limitations. Also check your metering pattern for the flash.




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KatManDEW
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Jun 03, 2017 08:25 |  #20

gonzogolf wrote in post #18366801 (external link)
The phrase, desired amount if ambient light, can be interpreted several ways. If you expose manually for proper exposure then add flash it's going to overexpose. You generally need to underexpose slightly then add the flash for fill. The problem with using ettl is that you are trying to hit a moving Target with a moving rifle. ETTL meters each shot, so by the time you figure out if you are over or under then even the slightest change in composition (and therefore the reflectivity of the scene) can negate any compensation you make. ETTL can be an amazing tool but you have to learn to work within it's limitations. Also check your metering pattern for the flash.

I usually try to underexpose slightly then add the flash for fill. I will have to look into the metering pattern.

The main problem I've been having is that I often end up shooting at very low flash levels with off camera flash, and I have trouble getting the flash power low enough. Even manual flash a 1/128 is too much.




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Butts
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Jun 07, 2017 06:47 |  #21

Move the flash further away from the subject might help?




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KatManDEW
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Jun 08, 2017 19:47 |  #22

Butts wrote in post #18372995 (external link)
Move the flash further away from the subject might help?

That's been my only solution so far.




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ParadisPhotography
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Post has been edited 4 months ago by ParadisPhotography.
Jun 16, 2017 16:48 |  #23

KatManDEW wrote in post #18374253 (external link)
That's been my only solution so far.

Toss a modifier on the flash if you aren't already. Depending on the size/design you can lose over a stop of light.

EDIT: NM, I see you already had a 48 inch softbox on it. Like others said, ND filter on flash, feather the light more, and if all else fails use black cloth to cover part of the modifier front.




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MalVeauX
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Jun 16, 2017 17:15 |  #24

Heya,

You can add another layer in your modifier to basically stop down the power a bit, without killing the spread so you can keep the source close to subject so that it's soft.

Otherwise, seems to me you're using a 600Ws in low light, even if its daylight. Its well accustomed to overpowering sun, but maybe a lower power light is in order. In light this dim, I would think a speedlite could do the job for your low light work.

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KatManDEW
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Jun 16, 2017 21:18 |  #25

ParadisPhotography wrote in post #18380117 (external link)
Toss a modifier on the flash if you aren't already. Depending on the size/design you can lose over a stop of light.

EDIT: NM, I see you already had a 48 inch softbox on it. Like others said, ND filter on flash, feather the light more, and if all else fails use black cloth to cover part of the modifier front.

Thank you!




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KatManDEW
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Jun 16, 2017 21:19 |  #26

MalVeauX wrote in post #18380130 (external link)
Heya,

You can add another layer in your modifier to basically stop down the power a bit, without killing the spread so you can keep the source close to subject so that it's soft.

Otherwise, seems to me you're using a 600Ws in low light, even if its daylight. Its well accustomed to overpowering sun, but maybe a lower power light is in order. In light this dim, I would think a speedlite could do the job for your low light work.

Very best,

That's a good idea! I have speedlite adapters for the softbox. Thank you.




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icor1031
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Aug 07, 2017 10:57 |  #27

Change shutter speed instead of ISO to keep the same flash exposure and increase ambient exposure.


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ammo
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Sep 11, 2017 04:55 |  #28

These look great - I would possibly be looking to just raise the shadows more in post - but then I'm a lazy photographer!


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MartinCapal
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Post has been edited 7 days ago by MartinCapal.
Oct 09, 2017 01:05 |  #29

Not sure if it is mentioned here - you have to have high-speed-sync triggers(triggerers, dont know). You have max sync 1/200 which is too long exposure time.

People usually struggle with primes and iso 100 and f/2.x during daylight. Impossible.. You gotta have a better quality speed-sync or a cable. Then you can open your aperture and enjoy better object-from-background separation while being a pro with your light setup.


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