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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting
Thread started 24 Sep 2017 (Sunday) 10:59
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Replacing Modeling Light with LED?

 
WillMass
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Sep 24, 2017 10:59 |  #1

Hi All,
Curious to see if anyone has tried replacing the standard Edison Base modeling light, with LED's in traditional strobes. I know there can be an issue if you try dimming them, but I typically don't dim mine. I have looked for something compatible online and have only found a 35 watt equivalent, in the tube shaped lamp.

I searched the boards, and found nothing, so I apologize if this has been discussed elsewhere.

Thanks!


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F2Bthere
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Sep 24, 2017 12:05 |  #2

I have not seen this topic discussed before and I have been wondering about this.

Since modeling lights are often at least 100watts and frequently 250, one could presumably get a pretty bright LED (enough for continuous light applications). Color quality could well be an issue, of course...


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WillMass
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Sep 24, 2017 12:22 as a reply to F2Bthere's post |  #3

IMO Color quality should not be an issue, since, 1. The modeling lights turn off when the flash tube fires. 2. They should not be bright enough to figure into the exposure. Assuming they did tho, setting a custom WB is an easy enough fix.


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Mikepe
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Sep 24, 2017 14:12 |  #4

Please keep in mind that several manufactors dim the light slightly even if set to full. Background is lifetime of the halogen lamp, using just 90% can increase life up to 400%




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mmmfotografie
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Sep 24, 2017 14:44 |  #5

That the modeling light goes off and on after the flash is correct. The tungsten wire is still hot when the fash fires and so emits light.
Switching of the light helps recharging the flash faster and gives an visible indication when the flash is ready again.

A LED is switching on and off up to 100.000 a second so when that is instantly. I don't think any flash will use that short switch off because is does influence the quality of the picture.

Try taking a picture with the trigger switch off then you see the light produced by the modelling light.


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WillMass
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Sep 24, 2017 14:57 |  #6

My reason for asking the question is; When working with strobes and the VLM, on location, the modeling light kills the battery. LED's typically use 1/10 the power, or less, of an incandescent bulb to produce the same light levels. I saw Dave Hobby (The Strobist) post about using 35 watt equivalent LED lights.

Other concerns aside, I was curious if anyone had tried this and where they might have sourced the lamps.


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Lotto
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Sep 24, 2017 20:22 |  #7

I have a few of those spare LED house bulbs. I didn't use them before because they are not as bright as tungsten bulb, but now after play with them, I really like them. I will leave one in one of my strobes for long term test.

Pro: LEDs run lot cooler and draw less current, they have wild rang of color temperature, some lot closer to daytime balance.

Con: The plastic base on the LED partially blocks the flash tube ( lost 1/3 stop of light from my testing). With the dimmable ones,they don't dim down like the tungsten bulsb (no fine steps and not dim down far enough). Even with the round bulb shape, most of the LED light still projects forward, unlike the tungsten bulb that bounces around the softbox.

Now I didn't search for the LED light just for the strobe, I got them on sale from Home Depot. I don't know if there are special LED just the the studio strobes. Two sample ones on hand..

Optolight: 12w (75W equivalent ), 2700K, 1100 Lumens. It's dimmable.

Ecosmart: 9.5W =60W, 5000K, 840 Lumens. Non-dimmable. 4-pack for less than $10 :)

No problem working with the VLM.

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abbadon31
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Sep 24, 2017 21:33 |  #8

LED Stick Bulbs


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WillMass
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Sep 25, 2017 09:37 as a reply to Lotto's post |  #9

Awesome. Thanks very much!


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WillMass
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Sep 25, 2017 09:38 as a reply to abbadon31's post |  #10

Thanks!


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F2Bthere
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Sep 25, 2017 10:43 |  #11

WillMass wrote in post #18459392 (external link)
IMO Color quality should not be an issue, since, 1. The modeling lights turn off when the flash tube fires. 2. They should not be bright enough to figure into the exposure. Assuming they did tho, setting a custom WB is an easy enough fix.

I was thinking of using the LED for making exposures. It only matters in that case.

Custom white balance works with certain kinds of lights, but frequently not with LEDs, which often do not represent a full spectrum. This causes weird color shifts, which can be more difficult to deal with.


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RDKirk
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Sep 27, 2017 07:48 |  #12

The issue is still lumens. There isn't a compact Edison base LED that comes anywhere close to the lumens of a 150 or 250 watt halogen. The lumen modeling lights work much better in large modifiers, their effect with reflectors is more apparent, and they do a better job of allowing irises to contract.




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abbadon31
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Sep 27, 2017 10:06 |  #13

https://www.amazon.com ..._SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=​detail (external link)


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RDKirk
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Sep 27, 2017 10:26 |  #14

"Compact," I said. An LED that's more than 11 inches long and nearly four inches in diameter isn't going to fit on my lights.




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TeamSpeed
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Post has been last edited 19 days ago by TeamSpeed. 3 edits done in total.
Sep 27, 2017 11:14 as a reply to RDKirk's post |  #15

I have used things like this with multiple LED bulbs in a softbox for constant lighting, I find it less expensive, but obviously bulkier and more to set up for a shoot. However it is quite bright, and with individual switches per bulb, you can dial in as much or as little modeling lighting as you need. I just use this for focusing needs and subject prep, then turn them off for the shoot.

https://www.adorama.co​m/fpcl5.html (external link)

Now with the dual AD200 bracket with 2 very bright LED bulbs/arrays built in, this works quite well too but puts out under 100 watt equivalent light.


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Replacing Modeling Light with LED?
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