CanonYouCan wrote in post #18467682
I have a Marumi DG8 light control (3 stops) and an ND64 (6 stops) for modelshoots on sunny days with my Godox AD600B.
First I bougth the Marumi, but I saw some youtube video's that 3 stops isn't enough, maybe i'll sell the Marumi ?
Didn't have the chance to test them this summer pity enough.
First I would buy a ND64 86mm for my Sigma 85 Art, but they are hard to find.
There are ND2-ND400 Faders like the Fotga & Selen which are affordable, but I saw some tests that photographers don't recommend ND Faders in general (purple colours when setting is too dark,...)
I ordered a 77-86mm step up ring so that I can use my current 77mm filters on the 85 Art, so I will probably have a black circle around my pics ?
Using a a step down ring going from 86mm to 77m and then using a 77mm filter will result in vignetting (the black circle around your images). I would avoid this.
Ideally, you want to get an 86mm threaded ND filter. It does not have to be 6 stops. Depends on what kind of light you're shooting in. Also depends on if you're shooting in HSS or not. At sync speed, limited to some where around 1/200s or whatever your camera uses, at ISO 50 or ISO 100, whatever you can get down to, and F1.4 (I assume you want to shoot wide open for the effect) in day light will require some ND filters. But you have to know how much based on metering. So basically you set camera settings, meter, and see how many stops you need it to be. It's not static. It's not just "6" all the time. It also depends on whether you want ambient to be underexposed by 1 stop (for the look), or exposed normally, or dramatically underexposed even more. That's up to you. And that will determine how much ND filter power to use. If you were shooting with HSS, you could just use your shutter to stop down ambient and not fool with ND filters. Or you could use a low power ND filter to simply make it a little easier because sometimes 1/8000s isn't even enough (and some cameras cannot do more than 1/4000s anyways). I'm pretty sure your AD600B can do HSS if I recall? So you could avoid using big clunkly ND filters anyways.
Marumi make great filters. You can also look for Haida filters, also very good and not super expensive.
If you want to stick to the ND filter route, you can also go for two 3 stop filters and stack them. It works fine! Just use high quality filters if you go that way. I use two 3 stop ND filters stacked (Hoya, Marumi) and you can't tell they're there. So while it's possible to get ghosting, aberation, etc, just use good filters and it should still be fine.
Another option is to just get a variable ND filter of very high quality, that you can go from 3 to 6. They're good and useful for this. But you have to get a high quality one.
You will probably have a hard time finding an 86mm threaded filter. It's just not nearly as common at 77mm is. You may have to end up looking at 95mm or 100mm filters and using a step down ring. But this will render your lens hood not useable.
I would suggest overall using a 2~3 stop ND filter that fits the 86mm threads of good quality, and use HSS to do the rest, instead of trying to stop down 6~7 stops with ND filters. Let your light do the work and use your shutter to stop down ambient. Much easier and simpler in the field than fooling with filters.
When you try to shoot in full sun at F1.4, you end up needing around 7 stop of ND filter to drop ambient below normal exposure to get the look where the subject is exposed with the light, ambient is slightly underexposed for the dramatic look, etc. You can also do the high noon look where the sun is directly overhead, ND filters enough to drop ambient to be exposed correctly and use flash exposure as key or fill to your liking. Either way, if you've ever looked through the viewfinder of your camera through 6~7 stops of ND filter, it's pretty dark. Make sure you're ok with that and can see enough to put a focus point on the subject where you want it, and compose how you want.