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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre People Talk 
Thread started 19 Oct 2017 (Thursday) 21:58
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Glasses Glint: How to minimize-prevent?

 
ShutterKlick
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Oct 19, 2017 21:58 |  #1

New to forum, testing the waters.. Ive asked elsewhere and didnt really get much help..

When I try to do pictures of someone with glasses, Im fighting flash reflection.

Im still new at photographing in this style and have much to learn. I am also studying several Youtube videos by recognized photographers.

If I move the flash to a 45deg angle from the subject, and position the flash above the head, would this be one of the most recommended methods?

I am not looking for advice in regards to doing it in software.

Running speedlight on stand with shoot though umbrella(s).

Here is an example of one of my setups, that worked pretty good

IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/37533040796_26710ceaf7_z.jpg


This one didnt work out like I wanted, and this is a common result
IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4456/37582651091_9a3d71211d_z.jpg


Thanks,
Andrew

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Oct 19, 2017 22:52 |  #2

1. Angle of incidence and angle of refraction (external link)
Or...
2. Get a flash with a modeling light & look before you shoot.


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Robinson ­ Crusoe
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Oct 19, 2017 22:58 |  #3

http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com.tr …lighting-for-glasses.html (external link)


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Micro5797
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Oct 20, 2017 19:15 |  #4

Most advice is given to move the flash to the side, where you have it. If i am photographing an individual with glasses, i have the softbox just a couple of feet off to the side of me for flat direct light.Then i just raise the bottom of the softbox to the top of their head.

I can see by the shadow on the side of her nose that the light is coming from the side (and obviously the picture), rather then from the top down. So, even though the umbrella is off to the side, you are only moving off from the cameras angel of incidence by one axis. Multiple axis's minimizes your change of glare. So higher and even just slightly to the side works great.


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ShutterKlick
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Oct 20, 2017 19:53 |  #5

The flash with modeling light is a great idea, I never even thought of that!

Heres one Im interested in, for my budget...
https://www.amazon.com …ords=flash+mode​ling+light (external link)


Also 5797, what angle do you point your softbox down at? Center of box toward subject's head?

Thanks all!

Andrew


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Micro5797
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Post edited 7 months ago by Micro5797. (3 edits in all)
     
Oct 20, 2017 20:44 |  #6

ShutterKlick wrote in post #18477197 (external link)
The flash with modeling light is a great idea, I never even thought of that!

Heres one Im interested in, for my budget...
https://www.amazon.com …ords=flash+mode​ling+light (external link)


Also 5797, what angle do you point your softbox down at? Center of box toward subject's head?

Thanks all!

Andrew

Even though i can angle my flash, i don't. An octobox produces a 12' diameter beam of light with little fall off on the edges.
Mostly i photograph families and seniors, so i go for flat lighting.

Neewer in my opinion is pretty good equipment when you are on a budget as well as flashpoint.
90% of my work is done outdoors, so i just use Yongnuo speedlights and have yet to purchase a strobe, but i would love to have that modeling light as well.
I know flashpoint/godax sells a 150/300/600 watt strobe taht takes Ac or a battery pack. the 300watt is $150 without the battery. It also comes with a modeling light.
https://www.amazon.com …=flashpoint%2Bs​trobe&th=1 (external link)

Here is the cheap octobbox i use.
https://www.amazon.com …2&keywords=neew​er+octobox (external link)

Here are a couple of shots i did a few weeks ago. The senior only wears glasses. I think out of 30 keepers, i only had some reflection on one image due to limited space, but the image was still very usable. The first image, you can see how high my octobox is (catch light and shadows). The second image i had the octobox a little bit too high and there is slight shadowing on the top of her eye.

Also, here is a good video on octoboxes.
https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=Zg-UAP31Zs0 (external link)

EDIT: BTW welcome to the forums.


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Oct 21, 2017 13:16 |  #7

I find it easiest to have the subject change the angle of the glasses by either moving the nose piece further down the nose, or lifting the arms up a smidge at the ear. It just takes a tiny amount to change the reflected angle of the flash.


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ShutterKlick
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Oct 22, 2017 19:35 |  #8

5797, WOW! The pix you posted are devoid of the dreaded flashy look, great job!

Thanks for the link too... Im running some Neewer adjustable "power" Speedlights, I need to field these and see how they run.
I just got a set of 40" reflective umbrellas, to replaced my aged and dilapidated 33" which I finally put in the trash. Ill be looking
forward to fielding those too... Id like to get some 40" shoot thoughts, and maybe one of those octo boxes you pointed out!

Id like to save my nickles and try to get one of these strobe heads, lots of power for not much money! Plus DC power pack sounds
like a sweet bonus.

Thanks for your support guys, I really appreciate it!

Andrew


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mystik610
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Oct 26, 2017 13:39 |  #9

You could also go an unconventional route and use a CPL!


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Nov 30, 2017 16:28 |  #10

How do you deal with glasses when you have a fill light? Say the key light is to camera right (4-5 o'clock) and you point the subject slightly to the left to avoid reflections. But now they're facing a fill light at 7-8 o'clock. I like do use a bigger modifier on the fill for softness, but that makes it even harder to avoid reflections. Do you move the fill light farther to side or just work without it?




  
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Micro5797
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Nov 30, 2017 16:45 |  #11

mike_d wrote in post #18507733 (external link)
How do you deal with glasses when you have a fill light? Say the key light is to camera right (4-5 o'clock) and you point the subject slightly to the left to avoid reflections. But now they're facing a fill light at 7-8 o'clock. I like do use a bigger modifier on the fill for softness, but that makes it even harder to avoid reflections. Do you move the fill light farther to side or just work without it?

I have had the same issue and decided that if they are to wear glasses, i would not use the bounce/reflector. I don't have stands or people to hold the reflectors for me, so i have never taken the time to work on this aspect of it. Sorry i am not any help here.


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