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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Kids & Family
Thread started 30 Oct 2017 (Monday) 15:19
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I feel I am getting better shots

 
Shaun ­ Liddy
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Oct 30, 2017 15:19 |  #1

Couple of my girls from yesterday. Would love feedback.

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Jethr0
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Oct 30, 2017 15:21 |  #2

I really like #2.

The depth of field looks like it’s causing some oof on the little one in #1


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Shaun ­ Liddy
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Oct 31, 2017 02:22 |  #3

I agree on the DOF being a bit thin causing some OOF on the back side of Yvonne pic #1. Still trying to learn the balance. Moving from a 7d2 to the 5d3 seemed to change this a bit.

Thinking f4 an 1/1000 might have been the better option.

I'm really trying to learn the appropriate Fstop for a given Focal Length and where my subject matter is distance away from me (total DOF required).




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JJConstantine
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Nov 01, 2017 02:10 as a reply to Shaun Liddy's post |  #4

There are good dof calculators out there. I see it like this - margin up and down you can go f2 (if you have it) - tight full frame f2.8, half body f/4... I like the longer focal lenghts for people unless you need them to look tall (fashion), than you can use 50mm or even les coser at up angle and the natural distortion will make person look taller :)


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JJConstantine
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Post has been edited 19 days ago by JJConstantine.
Nov 01, 2017 02:11 |  #5

Definitely 2, but may i ask why iso 400? Always try iso closest to your optimum to get better dr, if you want to add a bit grain is better to add it in a post a bit - but that's just my suggestion.


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texkam
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Nov 01, 2017 06:54 |  #6

^^^ Agree about the iso. You had the ability to shoot these at a lower iso. Why do you need a 1/2000, 1/1000th shutter speed?




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PhotosGuy
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Nov 01, 2017 09:17 |  #7

texkam wrote in post #18486035 (external link)
^^^ Agree about the iso. You had the ability to shoot these at a lower iso. Why do you need a 1/2000, 1/1000th shutter speed?

I'm guessing that you used f/3.2 to limit the DOF, but you didn't need ISO 400/320 for that.
You need to work on expressions, too. Also I fixed your thread title.


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TeamSpeed
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Post has been last edited 19 days ago by TeamSpeed. 3 edits done in total.
Nov 01, 2017 10:07 |  #8

I wouldn't worry at all about the ISO. The 5D3 has almost the same DR value up through ISO 800 (1/2 stop difference between 100 and 800), so as long as you stay under 800, you are fine. If you have to pull shadows up, there is more than enough DR there for that. The 5D3 doesn't have much noise at all at these levels too, and are very EASILY cleaned up if there are some. At this point I would be more concerned with AF, points, AF setup, shutter speed, and DOF/aperture, as you continue to learn. Those have a much larger impact on your results at this point.

Were these with center point and then recomposed, or were outer points used?


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PhotosGuy
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Nov 01, 2017 10:38 |  #9

TeamSpeed wrote in post #18486151 (external link)
I wouldn't worry at all about the ISO. The 5D3 has almost the same DR value up through ISO 800 (1/2 stop difference between 100 and 800), so as long as you stay under 800, you are fine.

I wasn't worried about the ISO 400/320 in themselves, but by the fact that he's still letting the camera make choices for him in static situations where he could start taking control using the dreaded Manual setting. ; )

FWIW Shaun, see if this makes sense to you: Need an exposure crutch?


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TeamSpeed
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Nov 01, 2017 11:20 |  #10

Unfortunately the 5D3 doesn't have a great auto ISO in manual like the newer bodies. It has it, but you cannot set exposure compensation. This way, you could shoot in manual for the 2 factors you really care about, and let the ISO float to the lowest value for you under the covers.


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Shaun ­ Liddy
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Nov 02, 2017 17:12 |  #11

99% of my shooting is in M.

ISO was selected as I was chasing a 2/4 year old around from sun to shade. I set ISO to where I could still keep 1/200 or faster in the shade (or minor changes in aperature). Sure makes things easier only adjusting shutter to get exposure. I started at ISO 200 raising it slightly through the day.

With my 7d2 I can use auto ISO with much greater confidence than on the 5d3. I still however shoot mostly with full manual.

As noted by others, 5d3 at 800 ISO is still very nice when exposed properly. Even my 7d2 at 800 ISO is nice (5d3 is about 1 stop better in good light (up to 800) and about 1.5 better when iso's reach 1600 and 3200).

I try to really limit my post to:
Crop
Minor exposure changes
Adding blacks when needed
Toning down highlights
Slight shadow adjustments

Goal is well framed straight shots (vertical / horizontal).

I'm putting together a cheat sheet for DOF showing:
Total in focus area
Center with Front/Rear limits

This will be based on full stops starting at F1.4 through F11 and at these lengths:

14mm
25mm
50mm
100mm
150mm
200mm
300mm
450mm
600mm


While I like the DOF calculators, I want something I can use to quickly see relative DOF fora given FL.

IE 5' total

F5.6 with 50mm FL and subject at +/-11'
F1.4 with 100mm FL and subject at +/-45'
F11 with 200mm FL and subject at +/-32'




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Shaun ­ Liddy
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Post has been edited 17 days ago by Shaun Liddy.
Nov 03, 2017 00:58 |  #12

This is becoming an interesting exercise for me. This shows 2' DOF based on F/Stop with Focal length and required distance of subject to obtain the 2' DOF. I am working on more charts like this for myself. Obviously need to populate some cells still.

Highlighted areas are lenses I am looking at or own just to give myself a visual and better understanding.

Looking at Sigma 14mm 1.4 or a 2.8 in similar FL
Looking at Tamron 150-600 G2

Have Tamron 24-70 G2
Canon 70-200 2.8 V2

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Shaun ­ Liddy
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Nov 04, 2017 23:48 |  #13

PhotosGuy,

I had seen the exposure crutch link before. I tend to use spot to give me feedback on my subject when I can. I find on the 5d3 I like to have 2/3 stop over exposed according to the meter. On the 7d2 it's typically 0 or +1/3.

In addition, I also tend to shoot in Kelvin not relying on AWB.

There really isn't any automatic exposure or color control provided by the camera. I also shoot raw and convert. About the only auto feature I use is auto focus.




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Shaun ­ Liddy
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Post has been last edited 15 days ago by Shaun Liddy. 2 edits done in total.
Nov 05, 2017 00:01 |  #14

Teamspeed,

I missed your question about where my AF point was. I typically use a single AF point (70% of the time), a cross (5point 20% of the time) and a 9 square block (10% of the time). 7d2 when shooting faster action I might use a zone.

With that said, if a single point on the 5d3 I normally use a cross point. If the cross point is not far enough out on the edge for where my focus target is, I will recompense but locking focus from the nearest cross point, this is often an outer point. I am not a big fan of center point lock then recompose.




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vinmunoz
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Nov 05, 2017 01:53 |  #15

TeamSpeed wrote in post #18486202 (external link)
Unfortunately the 5D3 doesn't have a great auto ISO in manual like the newer bodies. It has it, but you cannot set exposure compensation. This way, you could shoot in manual for the 2 factors you really care about, and let the ISO float to the lowest value for you under the covers.

Press the ISO button and turn the wheel on the back. it gonna act like EC.


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I feel I am getting better shots
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