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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Weddings & Other Family Events
Thread started 31 Oct 2017 (Tuesday) 16:30
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Need help with getting multiple people in sharp focus

 
rakeshrajn
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Clifton, New Jersey
Oct 31, 2017 16:30 |  #1

Hi everyone,

I am beginning to shoot family pictures and have observed that I lack sharpness on one of two people when there are a group of people in the same plane.
Any suggestions on the metering mode/focus points type etc ?
I use a Canon 7D with a 50mm 1.8 or a 18-135 kit for most of these pictures. I mostly shoot in PROGRAM mode so the aperture is normally at the widest the lens can offer.

If you observe the images below. The faces for the folks in the center are pretty sharp but the people at the ends have a blurry face.
How do I correct these ?

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Canon EOS 5D, EOS 7D, EOS Digital Rebel XSi / EOS 450D / Kiss X2 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.8 II, EF 35mm f/2, EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM, EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS |

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MalVeauX
"Looks rough and well used"
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Joined Feb 2013
Florida
Post has been edited 21 days ago by MalVeauX.
Oct 31, 2017 16:33 |  #2

Everything is sharp.

You're seeing motion blur (due to 1/60s shutter and you're moving) of ambient mixed with flash here, so you can see the ghosting effect of the two exposures.

Don't use A+/P, etc.

Very best,


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rakeshrajn
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Oct 31, 2017 16:45 as a reply to MalVeauX's post |  #3

Thank you for the info. How do I fix the motion blur ? Should i shoot below/above 1/60 ?


Canon EOS 5D, EOS 7D, EOS Digital Rebel XSi / EOS 450D / Kiss X2 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.8 II, EF 35mm f/2, EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM, EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS |

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MalVeauX
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Florida
Post has been edited 21 days ago by MalVeauX.
Oct 31, 2017 16:59 |  #4

It's relative.

Camera settings for ambient exposure (and it's ok to drag the shutter if ambient is a little lower than flash exposure value).
Flash exposure for flash itself.
It's two exposures in one. Flash for fill on your subjects or key. Camera for ambient.
Dropping ambient by a stop would have been nicer, 1/120s or even 1/200s. Then let flash fill light on your subjects.
There's no special setting, what you really need to do is use your camera's meter, learn to read it, to know what values to use for your goal.

Very best,


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jcolman
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Joined Mar 2008
North Carolina
Post has been edited 21 days ago by jcolman.
Oct 31, 2017 17:46 |  #5

Use a shutter speed of around 1/100 and an aperture of f/4 or higher. A higher f/stop (aperature) will give you greater depth of field. You will also have to increase your ISO to compensate.


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George ­ Zip
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Oct 31, 2017 20:01 |  #6

Try this my friend.

Go 5.6 to be safe, and go for a shutter speed of 200 (or higher depending on how bright it is) also to be safe. Try this outside in the shade and see how you like it.

For indoor stuff, I go 5.6, Shutter 60-100, ISO800 and bounce the flash. This will let in a little ambient light and it won't look as much like a flash shot.

Good luck




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scorpio_e
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Pa
Nov 01, 2017 05:53 |  #7

If you are shooting at 50mm, you can certainly use 1/60 BUT you have to hold the camera steady. Your subjects can not move either. Shooting at 1/125 gives you more room for error. F4 should be fine for a single row of people.


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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
That's my line!
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Joined Jun 2011
The Uwharrie Mts, NC
Post has been edited 21 days ago by Left Handed Brisket.
Nov 01, 2017 07:02 |  #8

I'm usually at F/4 - 4.5 for this type stuff.

Go here and start plugging in different variables to see different results ... all values have an effect ... nothing is unimportant

http://www.dofmaster.c​om/dofjs.html (external link)

But I agree, probably 1/60 second is too slow for subjects that are not holding perfectly still.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Formerly he's gone before apostrophe-gate | Not in gear database: Canon 70-210 3.5-4.5, Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 2x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

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Colin ­ Glover
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Southport nr Liverpool United Kingdom
Nov 03, 2017 12:45 |  #9

Depends on the positioning of your subjects. Looks sharp in your photo. If you have a group of people on a diagonal plane (i.e. each person is slightly behind the person in front of them) then the minimum F stop would be F8. Even this might not be small enough if the angle is great or there are a lot of people. However, a group of folk on the same plane of focus should be shot at the widest possible without blur. I shoot weddings and use 1/120th or 1/160th depending on the available light. F stop is at 8. If they're level it will be 4.5, 5 or 5.6.


Canon EOS 70D, Canon EOS 600D, EF-S 18-55 ii, EF 55-200 USM ii, EF-S 75-300 iii, Tamron 28-80, Sigma 70-210. Pentax 50mm, Pentax 135mm, EF-S 55-250, Raynox Macro adapter, Neewer filters (CPL, UV, FLD & ND4), Fuji HS20 EXR (30X zoom ) & cable release, Yongnuo 560 iii & Luxon 9800A manual flashguns for the Fuji, Hama Star 63 tripod, Hongdek RC-6 remote control, Velbon DF 40 www.point-n-shoot.co.uk website.

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rakeshrajn
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Clifton, New Jersey
Nov 03, 2017 13:07 as a reply to George Zip's post |  #10

Thanks George.

For the flash. I definitely try to bounce it. Since the ceiling in the above pics was extremely high. I tried to use a diffuser (This One : https://www.amazon.com ...age_o01_s00?ie=UTF8​&psc=1 (external link) ) .
I use the flash on E-TTL mode. Any suggestions apart from that ?


Canon EOS 5D, EOS 7D, EOS Digital Rebel XSi / EOS 450D / Kiss X2 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.8 II, EF 35mm f/2, EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM, EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS |

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-Duck-
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Joined Apr 2016
Shelton, CT USA
Nov 03, 2017 13:22 |  #11

Aside from the shutter speed being too low for the situation you also need to consider the lens. You are using a kit lens with a focal length that travels from 18mm all the way up to 135mm. That is a lot for a lens to maintain sharp focus corner to corner. This particular lens is know for chromatic aberrations in the corners. Looking at the two samples it looks like you have a little radial blurring going on, likely due to the lens.

When you have some down time I suggest doing some focus tests on the lens. Set up a focus depth chart on a table and take a variety of shots at different focal lengths and check the field of focus on the chart. Do this with the camera on a tripod and in good light. This will tell you if there are any focal discrepancies with the lens.

If you do a search for "How to test lens focus" it will give you a bunch of resources like this one at B&H (external link).


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elrey2375
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Nov 03, 2017 14:45 |  #12

why are you using 1/60 with a flash? And shoot at 5.6. plane of focus is actually not a straight line, it curves towards the photographer.


http://emjfotografi.co​m/external link
http://500px.com/EMJFo​tografiexternal link

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rakeshrajn
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Clifton, New Jersey
Nov 03, 2017 15:12 |  #13

Thank you all. I have another event coming up. This would be in a similar setup with high ceilings so will try to bounce the flash.
I have also recently acquired a Canon 5D Classic and a 70-200F4 L IS on my bag. Will experiment with those too.


Canon EOS 5D, EOS 7D, EOS Digital Rebel XSi / EOS 450D / Kiss X2 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.8 II, EF 35mm f/2, EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM, EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS |

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George ­ Zip
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Nov 07, 2017 23:50 |  #14

elrey2375 wrote in post #18487801 (external link)
why are you using 1/60 with a flash? And shoot at 5.6. plane of focus is actually not a straight line, it curves towards the photographer.

Because it works and I wanna let in some ambient light so it does not look too much like a flash shot. I look for ambient light behind them. It looks good.




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Need help with getting multiple people in sharp focus
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