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FORUMS General Gear Talk DIY & Customizing
Thread started 06 Nov 2017 (Monday) 15:34
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MFA Using Spyderlenscal Question

43 posts
Joined Sep 2017
Nov 06, 2017 15:34 |  #1


I just got my 6D back from B&H after exchanging the first one and had a question. I have just received a Spyderlenscal and took a shot at using it, but it was difficult to see exactly where the sharpest point on the chart was when viewing on my laptop. I could see that the top and bottom numbers were pretty blurry and it was difficult for me to see exactly where the sharpest point on the chart was. Has anyone else had this issue? I will admit that I was indoors and used my Yongnuo on camera to light the target since it was late and I don't have sufficient light indoors. The 6D was on a tripod at approximately the same level as the target.

Thank you,


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TeamSpeed's Avatar
32,638 posts
Gallery: 63 photos
Joined May 2002
Northern Indiana
Post has been edited 2 months ago by TeamSpeed.
Nov 06, 2017 15:37 |  #2

You can only do MFA when you have sufficient light to a) have a very fast shutter speed so that motion doesn't introduce error and b) have your lens wide open and/or your distance enough to create a thin DOF to make the adjustments.

Past Equipment | My Gallery (external link)

43 posts
Joined Sep 2017
Nov 06, 2017 17:01 as a reply to TeamSpeed's post |  #3

Thanks for the tip! The 6D sync speed is under 200, but I felt that having it on a tripod and using the 2 sec delay would be sufficient. I was using my 24-105 F4 and at the wide end I was about 2 ft away and at the telephoto end was about 10 feet away, but the numbers/lines didn't seem very blurry so it was hard for me to identify the sharpest point. I'll try it again during daylight and see if I get different results. The primary reason for me doing it inside is becuse the inside of my house is flat compared to everywhere outside of my house.

MedicinSC's Avatar
Joined Aug 2011
Beaufort, SC
Post has been edited 21 days ago by MedicinSC.
Dec 28, 2017 21:14 |  #4

You will definitely need to do it inside. Outside introduces target movement due to wind, inconsistent lighting due to moving clouds, etc.

You just need to make sure you have plenty of light indoors. Preferably constant lighting, since your flash only fires when the picture is taken, but after focusing. You can go to any home improvement store and get some of those clamp light reflector things. Put some daylight bulbs in them and point them at the target. But, make sure there is no glare on the target.

Take your time with the shots, defocusing between them, making the camera refocus. If you don't have a cable release, use the 10 second timer, to be sure there is absolutely no movement going on when the picture is taken. Using a cable release is better.

I have poor vision. I have used Focus Tune, found here: http://michaeltapesdes​ (external link). Currently, I am using Focal, found here: https://www.reikanfoca​ (external link). I am not completely sold on the results of Focal, yet. However, I love the assisted target setup.

You can also look up DotTune. Or, you can line up some batteries and go to town (somewhere in these forums, I think). Lots of methods to do this.

Canon EOS 1D Mark IV, EOS 5D Mark III | Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO OS HSM | Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM | Yongnuo YN-568EX, YN-568EX II


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MFA Using Spyderlenscal Question
FORUMS General Gear Talk DIY & Customizing

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