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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Sports Talk 
Thread started 04 Dec 2017 (Monday) 21:17
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Basketball focus technique

 
MizzouMan_2000
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Post edited 5 months ago by MizzouMan_2000.
     
Dec 04, 2017 21:17 |  #1

Hello,

Local high school upgraded to LED lights in their gym. I've only done a handful of games over the years only because I'll get the itch, spend hours dealing with poor white balance & uneven light, then get discouraged. Now I'm looking forward to taking more basketball photos.

I've done 1 junior high & 2 high school games (JV & V in same night) and I'm curious as to others' focus technique.

Question 1 - Do you aim for the torso or the face? Torso is a bigger target so you're less likely to lose it, but shallow DoF means the face is more likely to be OoF.
Question 2 - Do you use focus points more towards the center of the viewfinder so that when they jump for a jump shot, lay-up, etc. you don't cut off limbs or do you shoot on the wider end and crop for effect later?

I'm using 5D3+70-200 f/2.8L IS (Mk I).

I've also been researching focus drive modes and will plan to experiment with some of the comments I've read on other threads.

Thanks in advance!



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pat.kane
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Dec 04, 2017 21:47 |  #2

I shoot tight to minimize the amount of cropping, center focus point for the reason you state, and usually aim for the chest, though I go for the face when the action is slow.


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MizzouMan_2000
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Dec 05, 2017 07:08 as a reply to  @ pat.kane's post |  #3

Yeah that mirrors what I've done and since u use BBF with 1 focus point assigned to the2 BBF buttons, I can easily swap between chest or face.



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TeamSpeed
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Post edited 5 months ago by TeamSpeed. (3 edits in all)
     
Dec 05, 2017 07:18 |  #4

- Back Button focusing
- I use the same lens (vs II though), but don't shoot at f2.8, I use f3.2 or 3.5 for a few reasons
- I use off-center AF and try to keep focus on the shoulders at least
- I still OFTEN chop limbs and it annoys the crap out of me, I keep trying to shoot wide, but invariably end up zoomed in. It is something I continue to work on, in addition to holding the camera level in portrait mode, another annoying habit I have with tilted views.
- I shoot high ISO, and with the 5D3, you should be able to go to ISO 12800 for sports
- I set AF so that it doesn't refocus very quickly when things get in the way, this way focus stays on the player I placed it on, for a time anyways. This means I don't use a canned AF case, I make up my own, and set the 3 sliders accordingly.
- I use single AF point, no zones.

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MizzouMan_2000
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Dec 05, 2017 11:54 as a reply to  @ TeamSpeed's post |  #5

Thanks. I also try to stop down slightly just because I feel like my lens isn't sharp enough wide open.

I'm able to get 1/1600 @f/3.2 and iso 12800 in the high school gym with the new LED lights.

I have the same bad habits of not keeping the camera level ( even though I have a grip) and not zooming out fast enough as a play unfolds.



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pat.kane
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Post edited 5 months ago by pat.kane.
     
Dec 05, 2017 20:14 |  #6

MizzouMan_2000 wrote in post #18511211 (external link)
I'm able to get 1/1600 @f/3.2 and iso 12800 in the high school gym with the new LED lights.

You don't need 1/1600-sec. I recommend trying 1/800-sec and ISO 6,400.


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TeamSpeed
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Post edited 5 months ago by TeamSpeed. (3 edits in all)
     
Dec 05, 2017 20:17 |  #7

To get the best detail in pro ball, I shoot at 1/2000. That stops the glint in the eyes as they go for dunk, spit hangs in the air, etc. I started at 1/1000th years back and gradually moved faster. High school would be a bit slower for some things, but I would still stay at 1/1250 or higher personally. I would rather have some noise than motion on a really good opportunity.


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MizzouMan_2000
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Dec 05, 2017 20:20 |  #8

TeamSpeed wrote in post #18511564 (external link)
To get the best detail in pro ball, I shoot at 1/2000. That stops the glint in the eyes as they go for dunk, spit hangs in the air, etc. I started at 1/1000th years back and gradually moved faster. High school would be a bit slower for some things, but I would still stay at 1/1250 or higher personally. I would rather have some noise than motion on a really good opportunity.

Exactly. And the 5D3 handles noise reduction very well in LR.



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on ­ da ­ move
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Dec 12, 2017 13:14 as a reply to  @ TeamSpeed's post |  #9

The lighting in the gyms when I shoot are typically poor. What's the best way to get high IQ to print when shooting ISO 12,800 on a 7d MII? My images are not as sharp as yours as in this sample.


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MizzouMan_2000
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Post edited 5 months ago by MizzouMan_2000.
     
Dec 12, 2017 21:00 |  #10

on da move wrote in post #18516248 (external link)
The lighting in the gyms when I shoot are typically poor. What's the best way to get high IQ to print when shooting ISO 12,800 on a 7d MII? My images are not as sharp as yours as in this sample.

I imagine proper use of noise reduction software is key. I've done noise reduction in LightRoom. Some use other programs or plug-ins for photoshop. Noise Ninja, I think was a popular one and NoiseWare was another.

Plus just the differences in how a 5D3 and a 7D2 handle noise from the start. I rented a 7D2 once, but didn't try it in this type of environment, so I can't speak to its noise characteristics.



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Dec 13, 2017 11:49 as a reply to  @ MizzouMan_2000's post |  #11

Is it fair to say when shooting above ISO 10000, noise reduction software is need in most circumstances? Regardless, 5DM3 handles noise better than the 7DM2?


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rotty022
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Jan 23, 2018 11:52 |  #12

i use 70-200mm f/2.8. and usually shoot wide open. i use 1/800, iso 2500. i use lightroom and photoshop to adjust the exposure and noise reduction. i've shot underexposed by a couple of stops and fixed it in lightroom. i'm not sure how lightroom would do with iso 6400 and above. i can't have any noise in my pictures.




  
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MizzouMan_2000
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Jan 23, 2018 22:00 as a reply to  @ rotty022's post |  #13

I tried shooting with a slower shutter speed, but didn't like the results. I'll stick with 1/1600. They clean up nicely in Lightroom.



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heat00
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Jan 24, 2018 11:33 as a reply to  @ MizzouMan_2000's post |  #14

on which body are you shooting? MDIII or 7DII?
Just curious as I still haven't bought my new body and can't seem to decide between the two, for basketball only with poor lighting




  
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MizzouMan_2000
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Jan 24, 2018 22:24 as a reply to  @ heat00's post |  #15

5D3.

I rented a 7D2 over 2 years ago, but that was in the summer.



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Basketball focus technique
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