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Thread started 30 Dec 2017 (Saturday) 03:50
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Lightroom Noise Reduction Suggestions

 
Monkey ­ moss
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Dec 30, 2017 03:50 |  #1

Hi all,

I've been struggling for a while trying to find the best NR settings in LR. Well, the Christmas break has given me some time to experiment and I've found some standard settings that suit me well and give results I'm really pleased with.

I'm not one to super fine tune sharpness and NR for each photo as I often have 50 to 100 photos to process from a family event or outing, so I've made three presets with Low, Medium and High. So as a standard process I intend to apply them as follows...

ISO 400-800 = Low
ISO 1600-3200 = Medium
ISO 6400-12800 = High

Screenshots of each setting are below, in the same order as above, note that my camera is a 5Diii, so your camera needs and preferences might vary.

Hope this helps someone. It would be great if others were to chip in with their Lightroom NR process, or presets.

Thanks

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Gear: 5Diii, 16-35 f4, 24-70 f2.8 ii, 70-300L, 35mm f2 IS, 85mm 1.8
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Monkey ­ moss
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Dec 30, 2017 03:50 |  #2

And the high...

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Jon :cool::oops::D:cry::confused::(:lol:
Gear: 5Diii, 16-35 f4, 24-70 f2.8 ii, 70-300L, 35mm f2 IS, 85mm 1.8
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Bassat
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Dec 30, 2017 05:10 |  #3

I think your suggestions are a pretty decent place to start, and I'm happy you found settings you can generalize that suit your needs. I like your high(er) masking settings, and they may help you 'get away with' such high SHARPENING and NR settings. A few suggestions, if I may.

It may be worth your while to back off 10-20 units on your SHARPENING and LUMINANCE NR. Less of one requires less of the other.

I use a 6D and have never needed any COLOR NR at ISO 800. That may be camera differences, or personal tolerances, though.

For full size raw shots viewed on-screen, I think you'd do better at RADIUS = 0.5.

Lastly, if you are PRINTING a photo, do your SHARPENING (and maybe NR) last. I get much better results if I:
1.) Process my full size raw for everything EXCEPT sharpening.
2.) Crop to the proper print aspect ratio (8x10, 5x7, 11x17, whatever).
3.) Down-res the photo(s) to 300 DPI, and export as Quality=100% JPG.
4.) Sharpen the resulting JPG using a RADIUS of 1.5 or so.

If you've already processed the raw file, all you need to do is reset the sharpening defaults, export, and do your print sharpening. As always, you can apply one set of settings to all the photos you are working with. I seldom tweak individual photos; too time consuming.

I tried presets. I don't like them because I was always tweaking them for different batches of photos, different cameras, and some film/print scans. My pea-brain can't remember what all those presets do! :)


Tom

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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 30, 2017 10:26 |  #4

You are probably killing some IQ with those high NR settings for no reason. Also I would take advantage of the Detail slider as well. I learned that the Detail slider does 2 things. 0-50 = halo suppression. 50-100 = deconvolution but you lose halo suppression. With lower ISO's you may want to try setting the Detail a little higher.

Here is an example of my old 7D at 12,800. I was maxed out at a night game with an F4 lens so the best I could get was 1/500. There is a little motion blur in the hands and feet at that SS.

This is the original. I put the colour back to zero from the default just to illustrate. First image has no NR at all. Second I brought up the colour until the blotches went away.

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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 30, 2017 10:27 |  #5

Next image I set t NR to 68. The final below.

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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 30, 2017 10:30 |  #6

Like Tom said depending the size you print or for web viewing size it may not be necessary to go that high. The 8 by 10 prints from that game looked good. Poster sized prints is a different story.


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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 30, 2017 10:35 |  #7

Also it depends a lot on exposure. If you are using a flash and get good light you won't need as much NR. Maybe create another set of pre-sets - one for good exposures and one for low light and the NR set higher.


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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 30, 2017 10:40 |  #8

Bassat wrote in post #18529269 (external link)
I think your suggestions are a pretty decent place to start, and I'm happy you found settings you can generalize that suit your needs. I like your high(er) masking settings, and they may help you 'get away with' such high SHARPENING and NR settings. A few suggestions, if I may.

It may be worth your while to back off 10-20 units on your SHARPENING and LUMINANCE NR. Less of one requires less of the other.

I use a 6D and have never needed any COLOR NR at ISO 800. That may be camera differences, or personal tolerances, though.

For full size raw shots viewed on-screen, I think you'd do better at RADIUS = 0.5.

Lastly, if you are PRINTING a photo, do your SHARPENING (and maybe NR) last. I get much better results if I:
1.) Process my full size raw for everything EXCEPT sharpening.
2.) Crop to the proper print aspect ratio (8x10, 5x7, 11x17, whatever).
3.) Down-res the photo(s) to 300 DPI, and export as Quality=100% JPG.
4.) Sharpen the resulting JPG using a RADIUS of 1.5 or so.

If you've already processed the raw file, all you need to do is reset the sharpening defaults, export, and do your print sharpening. As always, you can apply one set of settings to all the photos you are working with. I seldom tweak individual photos; too time consuming.

I tried presets. I don't like them because I was always tweaking them for different batches of photos, different cameras, and some film/print scans. My pea-brain can't remember what all those presets do! :)

I don't use presets either. I shoot with ISO set 1:1, set up the Detail window based on each ISO and saved them to Default Develop Settings so everything auto applies during import. Lens corrections and camera calibration is also included.


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Monkey ­ moss
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Jan 03, 2018 18:04 |  #9

Thanks Tom,
Good shout on backing off the sharpening/NR. I'll continue to play with these when I have time.
Yeah, I just leave the colour NR on the LR default setting, I've never known it to affect colours within the image, have you noticed any downsides to it?
Will try the radius.
About the presets, yeah I know what you mean. But I find I take a bunch of pics in similar light or settings, so its really quick to apply either Low, Medium or High NR to a group of pics in the Library Quick Develop module. I do this last to keep LR a quick as possible when making adjustments.
I print very little, just photo books twice a year. Most of my picture viewing is either on my 27" mac (which I love cos it shows them off perfectly) or likely again later that day on my phone when I've uploaded them to dropbox :lol:

Bassat wrote in post #18529269 (external link)
I think your suggestions are a pretty decent place to start, and I'm happy you found settings you can generalize that suit your needs. I like your high(er) masking settings, and they may help you 'get away with' such high SHARPENING and NR settings. A few suggestions, if I may.

It may be worth your while to back off 10-20 units on your SHARPENING and LUMINANCE NR. Less of one requires less of the other.

I use a 6D and have never needed any COLOR NR at ISO 800. That may be camera differences, or personal tolerances, though.

For full size raw shots viewed on-screen, I think you'd do better at RADIUS = 0.5.

Lastly, if you are PRINTING a photo, do your SHARPENING (and maybe NR) last. I get much better results if I:
1.) Process my full size raw for everything EXCEPT sharpening.
2.) Crop to the proper print aspect ratio (8x10, 5x7, 11x17, whatever).
3.) Down-res the photo(s) to 300 DPI, and export as Quality=100% JPG.
4.) Sharpen the resulting JPG using a RADIUS of 1.5 or so.

If you've already processed the raw file, all you need to do is reset the sharpening defaults, export, and do your print sharpening. As always, you can apply one set of settings to all the photos you are working with. I seldom tweak individual photos; too time consuming.

I tried presets. I don't like them because I was always tweaking them for different batches of photos, different cameras, and some film/print scans. My pea-brain can't remember what all those presets do! :)


Jon :cool::oops::D:cry::confused::(:lol:
Gear: 5Diii, 16-35 f4, 24-70 f2.8 ii, 70-300L, 35mm f2 IS, 85mm 1.8
My Flickr (external link)

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Monkey ­ moss
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Jan 03, 2018 18:13 |  #10

Thanks DP.

Agree I'm on the limit of nearly overdoing the NR with my settings. One weird thing is that the previews in LR often look a bit over smoothed, but when I export they look about right. I don't know why this is but my settings posted above are a bit of a work around at present.

Thank you for the suggestions, appreciated :-)

digital paradise wrote in post #18529395 (external link)
You are probably killing some IQ with those high NR settings for no reason. Also I would take advantage of the Detail slider as well. I learned that the Detail slider does 2 things. 0-50 = halo suppression. 50-100 = deconvolution but you lose halo suppression. With lower ISO's you may want to try setting the Detail a little higher.

Here is an example of my old 7D at 12,800. I was maxed out at a night game with an F4 lens so the best I could get was 1/500. There is a little motion blur in the hands and feet at that SS.

This is the original. I put the colour back to zero from the default just to illustrate. First image has no NR at all. Second I brought up the colour until the blotches went away.


Jon :cool::oops::D:cry::confused::(:lol:
Gear: 5Diii, 16-35 f4, 24-70 f2.8 ii, 70-300L, 35mm f2 IS, 85mm 1.8
My Flickr (external link)

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Snydremark
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Jan 03, 2018 18:17 |  #11

Color NR is quite useful starting around ISO 800 and above in most images, depending on your starting exposure and such. It doesn't really do anything to the actual colors in the image, but it removes the chromatic speckling (as seen in Digital's crops above) which can easily be the most visually irritating portion of noise in a lot of images.

I would also double down on the recommendation for backing well off of your Luminance NR settings (even at 1600 and above I rarely push that above about 70) to avoid unnecessarily squashing detail.

You can hold SHIFT while making those adjustments to see a mask of where/how each effect is being applied; doing so should help you better narrow down the settings that you want to use there.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

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Monkey ­ moss
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Jan 03, 2018 18:55 as a reply to Snydremark's post |  #12

Thanks Eric, good tip on the mask (alt for mac i think) I use that for sharpening, blacks and white, but I forget you can use it for noise as well.


Jon :cool::oops::D:cry::confused::(:lol:
Gear: 5Diii, 16-35 f4, 24-70 f2.8 ii, 70-300L, 35mm f2 IS, 85mm 1.8
My Flickr (external link)

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MalVeauX
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Jan 03, 2018 19:08 |  #13

Heya,

Scale matters.

If you're doing it at full uncropped resolution, versus the cropped web-scaled version, your NR approach (and sharpening for that matter) should be different.

Very best,


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digital ­ paradise
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Post has been edited 14 days ago by digital paradise.
Jan 05, 2018 09:57 |  #14

I was going through my stuff. I found this on the net a few years ago. My base NR settings are around this if you are interested.

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